Kraton Kraton 6S - Still learning, needing some guidance please.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

NickE6012

Fairly New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
8
Hey all, few questions if I may:

Been hammering the new 6s for a few weeks now:

1) The small cog that is (or was) fixed to the motor spindle (ARA311052 below) has come off. There looks to be some sort of lock down screw, but its pretty knackered. Can these be replaced? And the cog itself looks quite worn - should I just replace the whole thing?

Also, I can't see the little clip (ARA710006) either, so I assume that it has sheared off. Are both essential / recommended?

View attachment 328087
2) The 'High Speed Gearing' cog that came in the box with the Kraton 6s looks to be the same size as the one that came fitted out of the box.. is that right? OR am I missing something?

3) Lots of people taking about diff oil.... How do I check this and top it up please? I'm still getting drops of oil on the floor after a long run with the 6S.

4) Lots of people on this site are calling all the parts by name, as opposed to a part number. Is there something that we can view to put a name to each part number please?

5) Lastly - any tips on where is the best place online (In Australia preferably) to buy spare parts? Happy to go international if recommended.

Thank everyone. Appreciate your assistance in advance.
 
That small cog is called the pinion gear. If the teeth look very worn, you should replace it. The e-clip on the end of the motor shaft is nice to have, but not totally necessary. When you replace the pinion gear, I would put a drop of loctite on the grub screw that screws into the side of the gear, and tighten it up pretty tight.

When you mesh the gears, they should not be extremely tight against each other. You should be able to move the spur gear (the larger one) back and forth, about 1mm or so without moving the pinion gear. If it’s set too tight, it causes the motor to get too hot, due to excessive drag.

As for checking your diffs, I’d try searching on YouTube. You’d be far better off watching it done than reading it and trying to do it without a visual. YouTube is extremely useful for people beginning in the hobby. Hope this helps!
Also, welcome to the forum!
 
Here is the exploded view of your K6S:
https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/interactive-exploded-view?pid=ARA8608V5T1

Click on the part number, it will open a window with all the details, including the name of the part.

Are you sure the oil comes from the diffs and not the shocks? Check it either way, but it's really important to sort this out ASAP if it is indeed the (center?) diff leaking out. Running an empty diff is a great way to destroy it. As mentionned above, there is no point trying to explain with words how to rebuild a diff. There are many how-to videos on youtube. Search or ask on the forum if you have specific questions.

It's not very hard to do. Just make sure you know what you need to do before attempting it and take your time. :)
 
That small cog is called the pinion gear. If the teeth look very worn, you should replace it. The e-clip on the end of the motor shaft is nice to have, but not totally necessary. When you replace the pinion gear, I would put a drop of loctite on the grub screw that screws into the side of the gear, and tighten it up pretty tight.

When you mesh the gears, they should not be extremely tight against each other. You should be able to move the spur gear (the larger one) back and forth, about 1mm or so without moving the pinion gear. If it’s set too tight, it causes the motor to get too hot, due to excessive drag.

As for checking your diffs, I’d try searching on YouTube. You’d be far better off watching it done than reading it and trying to do it without a visual. YouTube is extremely useful for people beginning in the hobby. Hope this helps!
Also, welcome to the forum!
Awesome, thanks so much for the help. Great tips. Quick question if I may in relation to the meshing. If I replace the pinion gear (I have ordered a new one) then surely it just fits on the motor shaft without any real options for adjustment. And once I clamp up the grub screw, then again, how or where can adjust anything?
 
The motor mount can slide sideways.

You loosen the 2 screws at the top, which will let part ARA320469 of the motor mount slide in part ARA320468. Once the good mesh is obtained, tighten back the 2 top screws (with a dab of blue thread locker on the threads), validate the mesh is still good, then send it.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/interactive-exploded-view?pid=ARA8608V5T1

Tip for setting up the mesh: Make sure the mesh is good for the whole circumference of the spur gear. The way to do it is to gently rock back and forth the spur gear. You want to hear/feel a little "takatakatak" when you do it, which indicates that there is a tiny bit of play between the pinion and the spur gears. If you don't hear/feel this knocking when rocking back and fort, it means the mesh is too tight at that spot. Basically, I try to set the mesh as tight as possible, while still feeling this knocking sound over the whole circumference of the spur.
I hope you can see what I mean. Again, there are probably good videos on youtube about this. Good luck!

Learning to wrench on an RC implies having to learn a lot of things rapidly and it can be a bit overwhelming at first. Don't worry about it, take you time and it will all become quite easy in no time. I suggest investing in quality tools, if you haven't already. Wrenching can be the best part of the hobby, but you need good tools to enjoy it. :)
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top