Kraton Kraton 6s tips

[RC_T]

I just got a Kraton 6s and was curious as to which parts should be upgraded first. I also heard that the diff fluid should be checked and was wondering if that’s an easy job for a newbie. Any tips or suggestions regarding the Kraton would be appreciated.

 

[SrC]

Nothing will be super easy in the beginning. But if you are patient and remove all 3 diffs and top them off, they will last quite a while. Also need to check the shimming of the Fr and Rr diffs. This is SO important.
Absolutely buy Alloy Front and rear Chassis braces. Consider fans for the motor. Need to buy shock and diff oils to have in hand. Get the EXB basher front bumper for sure. I am assuming you have the standard RTR Kraton, with "Open" diffs.
I recommend buying 60kcst-Fr/ 500kcst-center and 20 or30k -cst for the rear diff. Clean out ALL the stock oil, whatever is in there first.
Not only are the factory oils low on oil, it is way too thin. Stock is only 10k/100k/10k.
The thicker oils I mentioned above will make the rig come alive and there will be less chance of damage to the tires. Less ballooning effect. And the diffs will last much longer. We all do this procedure out the box before running. Or you will have an early fail. And will have to disassemble and replace damaged parts much sooner than later. I can get about 20-30 runs out of my diffs. But I will clean out, fill, and and maintain them before they fail.
But Shimming the diffs is key here. Buy spare diff shims to have on hand, they are delicate, and damage easily. Tekno shims are an option. What I use besides the Arrma stocker shims. Use any "automotive" Grease on the main and input gears of the Fr and Rr diffs. Synthetic type greases are best. Any auto parts store will have it. U don't need to buy the RC boutique greases that are so very expensive in tiny small quantities.

Good luck with your new K6s. Great choice in a first Arrma rig.

Edited.

 

[RcDad23]

At the beginning i was scare of taking my K6 apart,3 years later I build my own custom RC cars,but create like a piece of cardboard or paper and every screw u take out just simulate on the paper what u gonna do and go from there is not hard. Not be like ummm,just start and u will see

 

[RC_T]

Nothing will be super easy in the beginning. But if you are patient and remove all 3 diffs and top them off, they will last quite a while. Also need to check the shimming of the Fr and Rr diffs. This is SO important.
Absolutely buy Alloy Front and rear Chassis braces. Consider fans for the motor. Need to buy shock and diff oils to have in hand. Get the EXB basher front bumper for sure. I am assuming you have the standard RTR Kraton, with "Open" diffs.
I recommend buying 60kcst-Fr/ 500kcst-center and 20 or30k -cst for the rear diff.
Not only are the factory oils low on oil, it is way too thin. Stock is only 10k/100k/10k.
The thicker oils I mentined above will make the rig come alive and there will be less chance of damage to the tires. And the diffs wil last much longer.
But Shimming the diffs is key here.

Thank you for the detailed response it’s greatly appreciated and helpful.

 

[RC_Noob]

Nothing will be super easy in the beginning. But if you are patient and remove all 3 diffs and top them off, they will last quite a while. Also need to check the shimming of the Fr and Rr diffs. This is SO important.
Absolutely buy Alloy Front and rear Chassis braces. Consider fans for the motor. Need to buy shock and diff oils to have in hand. Get the EXB basher front bumper for sure. I am assuming you have the standard RTR Kraton, with "Open" diffs.
I recommend buying 60kcst-Fr/ 500kcst-center and 20 or30k -cst for the rear diff. Clean out ALL the stock oil, whatever is in there first.
Not only are the factory oils low on oil, it is way too thin. Stock is only 10k/100k/10k.
The thicker oils I mentioned above will make the rig come alive and there will be less chance of damage to the tires. Less ballooning effect. And the diffs will last much longer. We all do this procedure out the box before running. Or you will have an early fail. And will have to disassemble and replace damaged parts much sooner than later. I can get about 20-30 runs out of my diffs. But I will clean out, fill, and and maintain them before they fail.
But Shimming the diffs is key here. Buy spare diff shims to have on hand, they are delicate, and damage easily. Tekno shims are an option. What I use besides the Arrma stocker shims.

I need to get alloy front and rear chassi braces myself, but was curious if there was any carbon fiber ones out there?

 

[jkflow]

I need to get alloy front and rear chassi braces myself, but was curious if there was any carbon fiber ones out there?

Look at basherqueen ebay store for carbon or M2C for alu.
Nothing carbon has ever held up in my rig, splinters etc but there are exceptions. 3 good links below but there are others. If you are talking center brace, rip it out and use it as a stick to grow plants, does more damage than good imho, but it's your rig.

https://www.ebay.com/str/basherquee...55-0&campid=5337590774&customid=&toolid=10001

https://justbashitrc.com/

https://m2cracing.net/

 

[RC_Noob]

Look at basherqueen ebay store for carbon or M2C for alu.
Nothing carbon has ever held up in my rig, splinters etc but there are exceptions. 3 good links below but there are others. If you are talking center brace, rip it out and use it as a stick to grow plants, does more damage than good imho, but it's your rig.

https://www.ebay.com/str/basherquee...55-0&campid=5337590774&customid=&toolid=10001

https://justbashitrc.com/

https://m2cracing.net/

Ah ok thanks for the links! Ya right now all I have are the RTR plastic front and rear chassis braces and I removed the center tower to tower brace. But I am looking to add the aluminum front and and rear chassis brace and put in a carbon fiber tower to tower brace at some point.

 

[SrC]

I need to get alloy front and rear chassi braces myself, but was curious if there was any carbon fiber ones out there?

T2T brace is available in CF. But the 2 chassis braces are made of Alloy. many brands to choose , wallet permitting. M2C is the best brand, but even Arrma EXB alloy chassi braces are good enough for most. This protects the chassis from bending. The plastic stocker braces will be shortlived and allow the chassi to fold.

 

[jkflow]

Just a word of warning, stay away from GPM/Integy/HR for anything chassis related, waste of money since stock plastic is better (might be a slight exaggeration, but I did bend anything I had incl braces).

If you think you will break stuff, and you have the $$, highly recommend M2C. Not all of it imho, but definitely anything chassis related incl. towers.

 

[parcou]

Welcome!

 

[hobo]

I have found the kraton 6s v5 to be durable without any upgrades so far it feels light and nimble compered to my m2c upgraded kraton's and talion etc. all I did was change the diff oils and shim the diffs and checked all the metal to metal connections for thread locker then put snap ring shims under the servo saver turned the timing down on the esc put a 14t pinion on the motor and a fan also vented the tyres its been fine apart from the servo broke after a few runs

 

[SrC]

@hobo , like the way you fly there. Light chassis' handle way better for the most part like when new.
Even a pound of added weight changes everything. Launch it hard though or major strikes without alloy chassis braces will snap the plastic stockers, and the chassis tweaks easily.Right Out the box, every 6s rig, I upgrade to alloy braces and "CF sleeve" over the long T2T brace. I did this to every single 6s rig I own. Without the CF sleeve, yeah that T2T brace is useless. been there. The T2T does bow/bend downward easily with hard hits. The slight added weight of these two upgrades that work well together is well worth it IMHO. Very cheap insurance.