Kraton Kraton diff and tire setups

[logansmithc99]

Hey! I have a kraton 6s with 50k front and rear and 100k center, I also have mx38 belted badland hp’s I drive in the desert when I’m out for my races, it honestly handled like crap, I’m thinking of different diff setup and maybe backflip or backflip low profiles any comments are helpful!

 

[GraniteFox]

I feel your pain. Those 3.8 belted are big and heavy. Ended up getting rid of the ones I had. Turning with the stock setup becomes very difficult especially on power. You might want to try a heavier oil in the center maybe 500k-1mm. The 100k probably sends too much to the front. If you jump alot the standard backflips should give you better air control than the LPs. Both are good options. Good luck

 

[PrerunninF150]

The Backflips on my Kraton are night and day better than the Copperheads. I haven't tried the the LPs but I don't want smaller tires for the terrain I drive on.

 

[MMoelmann]

I really like the Fireteam tires on the Kraton/Talion.

 

[hobo]

I run 40/500/20 in my diffs and the stock copperhead 2 tyres on my kraton v5 and runs like a dream. I have the backflip 6s tyres on my other kraton v3 6s and that runs great also

 

[SrC]

Hey! I have a kraton 6s with 50k front and rear and 100k center, I also have mx38 belted badland hp’s I drive in the desert when I’m out for my races, it honestly handled like crap, I’m thinking of different diff setup and maybe backflip or backflip low profiles any comments are helpful!

Avoid heavy Belted tires for more technical tracks or racing.
I like Low profile Truggy Zero offset Pin tires on my Kraton. Probably best for your application. Lighter and more nimble response with them.
Your diffs look to be setup all wrong.
I run 60k/ 500k/20-30k (rear) But for bashing use in the wide open fields. Would not be best for a technical track.
For starters your rear diff with 50k is probably not best.
Bump up your center to 300k and drop the rear to 20k if you are racing. Not sure what you mean by a Track you are using. Is it a groomed and designed track? Or just an Add Hock type of track that is loomy with low traction? If so , even lower weight diff oils could be better if it is a technical track. Those Heavy Belted PL tires are part of your problem, IMHO. Working against you. All show and no go. Loading the drivetrain needlessly for your application. And Not the best traction at that, for a "Track " venue.
If driving with 6s packs, you are overpowered. Drive with 4s packs. You will actually have faster Lap times. Less is more . ESC Punch setting can also be dropped down to dial it in better. Same with Throttle Exponential, if your radio is equipped with that setting.

 

[logansmithc99]

Avoid heavy Belted tires for more technical tracks or racing.
I like Low profile Truggy Zero offset Pin tires on my Kraton. Probably best for your application. Lighter and more nimble response with them.
Your diffs look to be setup all wrong.
I run 60k/ 500k/20-30k (rear) But for bashing use in the wide open fields. Would not be best for a technical track.
For starters your rear diff with 50k is probably not best.
Bump up your center to 300k and drop the rear to 20k if you are racing. Not sure what you mean by a Track you are using. Is it a groomed and designed track? Or just an Add Hock type of track that is loomy with low traction? If so , even lower weight diff oils could be better if it is a technical track. Those Heavy Belted PL tires are part of your problem, IMHO. Working against you. All show and no go. Loading the drivetrain needlessly for your application. And Not the best traction at that, for a "Track " venue.
If driving with 6s packs, you are overpowered. Drive with 4s packs. You will actually have faster Lap times. Less is more . ESC Punch setting can also be dropped down to dial it in better. Same with Throttle Exponential, if your radio is equipped with that setting.

I race around pit bike tracks in the desert which are full of whoops and small beat up jumps but I have a losi lasernut that handles like a dream on that track also
Thank you!

 

[SrC]

I am sure you can dial it way better for sure. Patience.
Enjoy.

 

[Moirae]

I'm not sure if you're using the stock servo but that probably part of your problem too.

 

[logansmithc99]

I'm not sure if you're using the stock servo but that probably part of your problem too.

I have a jx ecoboost 36kg that works pretty good and a very tight servo saver, maybe too tight?

 

[Moirae]

I have a jx ecoboost 36kg that works pretty good and a very tight servo saver, maybe too tight?

nah tighter should give you even better steering.

 

[logansmithc99]

I feel your pain. Those 3.8 belted are big and heavy. Ended up getting rid of the ones I had. Turning with the stock setup becomes very difficult especially on power. You might want to try a heavier oil in the center maybe 500k-1mm. The 100k probably sends too much to the front. If you jump alot the standard backflips should give you better air control than the LPs. Both are good options. Good luck

I drive in the open high desert In California, backflip lp’s should supposedly give me better handling but backflip 6s might last longer because of taller sidewall or not that big of a deal?

 

[SrC]

Some feel the BF LPs are better being Low profile. The main difference. Some feel the 6s BF last longer. I feel otherwise. Some feel the larger 6s BF with more mass affords better Big Air Rotation. I agree, but up to a point. And really depends, again, on how you drive and where. Have both types of BF's, to experiment with, and decide for yourself. A much taller tire, also brings the CoG higher. Raising the chassis. That can also work against you. Food for thought.
Tires can be very subjective. What works for some may not work for others. There are so many other variables. Not just the tires.

 

[SrC]

I always liked my Servo Savers on the tighter side.
Or even the bestest servo out there will become a lame duck.