Little winter routine from an old guy(from old times :) )

btosic

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You probably know all this, but I want it in one place for new guys, fell free to add your winter routine, your lubricants, your shock oil weights, your ways to avoid corrosion, friction from small rocks and sand all other things you do.

1. Allways have in mind that oil in the shocks would be thicker on cold temperatures, your compression and rebound would be much slover. On the other hand, diffs will warm themselves.
2. Don't take a frozen car directly to bashing, allways let a car settle on a rum temperature prior to bashing. I can explain why, if someone is interested.
3. Don't let a fully charged LiPo froze, and then take it out and use. Charge a LiPo on a rum temperature, then install it in the car prior to bushing, that way LiPo would keep a optimal temp all the way, it would heat it self from draining. On the other hand, you can store a LiPo in the fridge, when put in storage mode, if you like.
4. Have in mind that all public roads are treated whit salt, salt is deadly for bearings, dog bones, and all metal and even carbon(galvanic corrosion).
5. It is a nice practice to use a small amount of motorcycle chain lubricant on dog bones, very small amount would be protective, because it won't be flashed by water. Chain lubricant is made with salt in mind.
6. It is a good practice to allways clean small rocks and sand(from winter road treatment) after bashing, don't let a car freez with water in joints and bearings, during freezing ice expands! After washing dry the car with compressor or hair dryer(wach the heat).
7. Take a cloth, spray WD40 and apply it on the external surface of the chasi plate, that way you will protect all the chasi screws from corosion, and/or future breakage.
8. Be sure of water proofnes(rating) of all your electronic components. Be aware that temperature differences form condensation on surfaces.
9. It is recomended to shorten your cleaning/rebuilding/lubricating periods during winter.
10. Have in mind that all composits change their elastic specs, in other words, plastic is less brake proof in cold temperatures.
11. From time to time check your srews tightness. Hot/cold chages can affect them.
12. Have in mind that stopping distance are way longer in the cold and on the snow/ice a saw so many chrashed cars that way.
13. Have some composite treatment(usualy from auto industry), to prevent micro abrasion and micro cracks. That treatmants keep plastic elastic and make it hydrophobic(you want soft to touch dark black plastic, whiteish hard abrasive plastic is a bad thing).
 

olds97_lss

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Some of these suggest you store your RC's outside or in a sub-room temperature place. Is that common? I don't have a choice as mine are in my apartment.

What's this one? What's a "composite treatment"?
13. Have some composite treatment(usualy from auto industry), to prevent micro abrasion and micro cracks.
 

btosic

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Me too, I store all my RCs in my house, I have more planes, than cars, old ones. Maybe I was misunderstood, my suggestion is to keep RCs indoors and in room temperature, but I gave a suggestion what to do if one must store the cars somewhere else(cold place or outside).

As for composite treatment, I use any quality auto plastic treatmant I can find in a local auto parts store. There are many many options, and some of them are anti static too, which is nice. They work fine in the summer too, because sun is another enemy of plastic (UV is not good for carbon fiber too).
 

TraverseCity420

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Some really good tips I had no idea that wd-40 trick would stop the screws from rusting!!! Thank you!!!
 

btosic

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Yes, that is the main purpose of WD40, WD stands for Water Displacement:

"Norm Larsen, founder of Rocket Chemical Company, is considered the original founder of WD-40," according to wd40.com. Larsen aimed to develop a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry. He succeeded at the goal, Water Displacement, on the 40th attempt, hence the name."
 

olds97_lss

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Me too, I store all my RCs in my house, I have more planes, than cars, old ones. Maybe I was misunderstood, my suggestion is to keep RCs indoors and in room temperature, but I gave a suggestion what to do if one must store the cars somewhere else(cold place or outside).

As for composite treatment, I use any quality auto plastic treatmant I can find in a local auto parts store. There are many many options, and some of them are anti static too, which is nice. They work fine in the summer too, because sun is another enemy of plastic (UV is not good for carbon fiber too).
Like armor all? I keep a bottle of that to put in my nitro fuel to keep it from foaming. lol!
 

btosic

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Yes, Armor all is an old trick, from plane crew, we used to foam the tank from outside, to kill vibrations, but when vibrations are still the problem Armor all works like a charm. :) Some people say not to use Armor all, but I never heard of a problem.
 

olds97_lss

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Yes, Armor all is an old trick, from plane crew, we used to foam the tank from outside, to kill vibrations, but when vibrations are still the problem Armor all works like a charm. :) Some people say not to use Armor all, but I never heard of a problem.
Been using it for over 15 years... haven't noticed a problem yet. I made a video out of it... wow, my camera was awful back then... lol

 

btosic

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That is a nice video from 15 years ago. :) I am so glad I can discus some things, and bring up some good memories from happier times...
 

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