Big Rock Making my Big Rock more manageable at high speeds, off road

[Kla912000]

Typhon 6S shocks will solve the problem. A little pricey but worth it.

 

[rag6]

Wondering what oil weights you run with your typhon 6s shocks?

 

[parcou]

Wondering what oil weights you run with your typhon 6s shocks?

On the Granite and BLX I have been happy with 60wt all around.... "If" I want to go lighter like in the winter...42.5wt but winters are mild here so 60wt still good for me in the Typhon.

 

[PatMarcus172]

Hi

I feel you hit what I am doing at my best friend's property in the country where he has taken his tractor and made a large area for us to run....grass, dirt, hills for jumps, etc wide open space. I have the newer Big Rock and gun it on 3S and it moves like it is floating over the grass, dirt, bumps and I can move it left/right....have to many times to dodge him or move around a hill I did not want to jump at full speed... When I do come to a stop I have the brakes set at 75%...so I stop it but never hit it hard enough to lock up. But I am also slow down enough to turn it at a fast speed and don't flip it....took some learning throttle control but I can.

My setup is mostly stock with changes:

1. Typhon shocks
2. 60wt oil all around
3. Racked a bit towards the front
4. Duratrax Stakker tires...which hook up great. 14mm stock hex
5. Motor fan
6. Game Changer fan as well

Throttle control has been my best friend....my best friend wheelie all the time. I can pull off the line with a little but mostly I can keep the front down under power for traction.

Good luck

Are you somewhere very hot that you need those fans ?
A big thanks to everyone for your suggestions. Quite a variety - including suggestions of both lighter....and heavier shock oil (I have 40wt and 60wt in the cupboard, at the moment). I wonder if I’m gonna have to bite the financial billet and get typhon 6S shocks ? Are they a direct fit, top and bottom ?

 

[parcou]

Are you somewhere very hot that you need those fans ?
A big thanks to everyone for your suggestions. Quite a variety - including suggestions of both lighter....and heavier shock oil (I have 40wt and 60wt in the cupboard, at the moment). I wonder if I’m gonna have to bite the financial billet and get typhon 6S shocks ? Are they a direct fit, top and bottom ?

Yes...TN can get over 100deg with the humidity and 90+ at night.... I get thermal cut off so hoping what I added this winter stops that...time will come to tell.

 

[Kla912000]

Wondering what oil weights you run with your typhon 6s shocks?

Run 50wt oil in my Typhon 6s shocks on my Big Rock. And on my Typhon 3s I have Kraton 6s shocks with Typhon 6s springs and 50wt oil on the rear, and have Mojave 6s shocks with Typhon 6S springs and 40wt oil on the front of my Typhon 3s. Both rigs glide over bumps very smooth at high speeds.

 

[Soppy]

You want to have a fairly soft suspension so when you hit a twig , the wheel will move up quickly without lifting the truck. Also go a little heavier in the diff fluid to prevent excessive spinning of one wheel. For better handling , keep the front heavier than the rear. Don't go to heavy as it will cause steering issues.

 

[PatMarcus172]

Ive managed to get a really good deal on some typhon 6s shocks from an RC breaker. Can I check which Axial bushings are needed, please ?

 

[Kla912000]

Axial 7.5mmx8mm bushings

 

[PatMarcus172]

Axial 7.5mmx8mm bushings

Thanks - out of stock everywhere in the UK but have ordered some of these and some tekno pivot balls (thanks Harriot10) from the USA

 

[Ruzty1311]

The 3s line wasn't built like cadillacs so any sort of rough terrain and they get thrown around, with the slight exception of the Senton and Typhon. Even my Notorious 6s will bounce around on rough terrain, but its a lot more manageable than my Granite haha You would hate the granite then! The big rock is more stable due to its longer body and wider stance (vs the Granite).

 

[ssands85]

Set your toe on the steer axle closer to straight, and make sure your steering has as little slop as possible.... I’m currently running a 3800Kv 3652 hobbywing g2 motor, and the Xerun Xr8 sct ESC in my granite, with hot racing shock bodies, and eBay progressive springs, also a 25kg cheapie servo off Amazon, and the hot racing servo saver.... can’t remember what shock oil I’m running right now, but I have no issues with steering, or darting..... as long as the front wheels are on the ground....

I find that the rediculous amount of toe out from factory makes them unpredictable, just like a full sized vehicle...


Just saw your comment about one wheel spinning up when the rears are in the air, and I definitely don’t have that problem with my granite..... look at your rear diff.... either something is broken, or the diff fluid is way too light.......

 

[shreksearlobe]

dang that brcc is clean mine looks like it belongs on the street with a free sign taped on

 

[Klappars]

Thanks Pat_ranch. What would you reccomend in terms of shock oil ? Regarding the MX28s, are you talking about Proline Badlands which I know many forum members use ? I believe theyre available for a 12mm or 17mm hex in which case I guess Id need adaptors for the Big Rock ? Or were you suggesting combining them with something like the Hot racing extenders which do the conversion as well as the extension ?
In the UK, you have to import the Hot racing parts and the tyres are hard to come by, particularly in 17mm hex version. Would you get the belted versions ? Either way, this is about a £125 upgrade so I need to be sure its gonna make all the difference if I do it.

I would suggest trying around100 cst lower oil front and rear in the shocks, also ensuring that the shocks are free of air bubbles and are smooth and quiet when you compress the shocks then release them.

The effect of this is that the shocks will compress and rebound quicker when hitting bumps and undulations in the ground and therefore can react quicker to the terrain, keeping the wheels in coontact with the ground better.

Are you running stock diff oils?

 

[PatMarcus172]

I would suggest trying around100 cst lower oil front and rear in the shocks, also ensuring that the shocks are free of air bubbles and are smooth and quiet when you compress the shocks then release them.

The effect of this is that the shocks will compress and rebound quicker when hitting bumps and undulations in the ground and therefore can react quicker to the terrain, keeping the wheels in coontact with the ground better.

Are you running stock diff oils?

Do you really mean 100cst ? According to the chart Ive seen thats only the equivalent of about 10wt. Stock shock oil in the car is 40Wt. When I install the Typhon 6S shocks I was going to run them with 40wt which seems on the light side compared to what quite a few people are suggestiong. Yes I am running stock diff oil. Thanks again everyone - so much helpful advice in this thread.

 

[Klappars]

Do you really mean 100cst ? According to the chart Ive seen thats only the equivalent of about 10wt. Stock shock oil in the car is 40Wt. When I install the Typhon 6S shocks I was going to run them with 40wt which seems on the light side compared to what quite a few people are suggestiong. Yes I am running stock diff oil. Thanks again everyone - so much helpful advice in this thread.

Sorry if I worded it a bit strange. I meant 100cst lower than what it currently runs. So 40wt converts to around 500cst.

 

[GRC]

The 3s line bounces because they're light. In addition to suspension adjustments, more weight in general will help. Heavier tires will add considerable weight. 6s Typhon shocks will add weight. A large capacity battery will add weight. I noticed my Granite handled better when I put in a heavier battery. Adding metal parts will get expensive, but metal spur gear, differential cases, differential housings, etc. will all add weight.

 

[ssands85]

I had some down time at work yesterday so I made a rear protector out of 1/8th inch stainless... I have to say that my granite handles much more predictably on and off road... it’s a little more refined than my last fix

 

[PatMarcus172]

The 3s line bounces because they're light. In addition to suspension adjustments, more weight in general will help. Heavier tires will add considerable weight. 6s Typhon shocks will add weight. A large capacity battery will add weight. I noticed my Granite handled better when I put in a heavier battery. Adding metal parts will get expensive, but metal spur gear, differential cases, differential housings, etc. will all add weight.

Thanks. Thats a really good point and one Id not properly considered. The shocks are now on and look very nice but I took the car for a good rip yesterday and I can honestly say that theyve made no discernible difference to how it handles on grass and dirt at high speed. Its still just as much of a liability at 40+ mph. I think I also expected less chassis slap on jumps, too but don't think there is any. This was a really expensive upgrade and Im wondering if money would have been better spent on tyres but belted mx28 badlands are very very expensive in the UK, even when you can get them.

 

[Kla912000]

Thanks. Thats a really good point and one Id not properly considered. The shocks are now on and look very nice but I took the car for a good rip yesterday and I can honestly say that theyve made no discernible difference to how it handles on grass and dirt at high speed. Its still just as much of a liability at 40+ mph. I think I also expected less chassis slap on jumps, too but don't think there is any. This was a really expensive upgrade and Im wondering if money would have been better spent on tyres but belted mx28 badlands are very very expensive in the UK, even when you can get them.

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The Typhon 6S shocks are great but the springs are very soft. The Big Rock handles great with these shocks on rough terrain but the springs are too soft for big jumps and you will get a lot of chassis slapping. To solve that problem you need stiffer springs. I got springs from a Talion for the rear and Mojave soft front springs for the front on my Big Rock. These are a good combination for hard bashing.