Great suggestions here man.
4. I use that to clean my guns. You use as a straight up lubricant? Can you give me some more details on your application of clp please?
5. Is there a thread or vid showing this? Think I may have saw one but can't find it.
6. What did you use here? Part numbers, etc.
Thanks.
4. My Nero gets wet, especially when I use the hose to spray off all of the mud. All of the screws started to rust a lot. I have a lot of guns and Break Free CLP is fantastic for Cleaning, Lubricating, and Protecting steel. One day I made the connection that all of the Nero metal parts are treated steel, just like the steel used in guns. I hit every steel part of the Nero with CLP and it loves me for it. The cleaning and lubrication properties do wonders for keeping the bearings running smooth. The Lubrication and Protect keep all of the screws, U-Joints, and drive shafts (especially the insides of the drive shafts) from rusting and getting nasty. CLP is not a grease so it doesn't get gunky like grease. There are other gun cleaning products out there that might be slightly better at certain things, but there have been some excellent studies done where they compared dozens of protectants by leaving metal outside for months and CLP finished in the top 3. That's good enough for me. I am really happy with it and recommend people use it on their RC cars. I bought a small applicator bottle with a micro needle that lets me get fractions of a drop of CLP exactly where it want it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BNI6TOE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
5. Take off the plastic cage over the ESC so you can move the wires around easier. (And replace the garbage ESC mounting tape with good mounting tape, while you are in there.) Remove the rear right shock and move the ESC wires to the outside and secure them loosely with a zip tie. (I moved the shocks to the innermost position.) Re-position the
XT90 battery connectors and wires so they create less battery wire slack when the batteries are connected. This whole area is going to get smashed over and over by the bed of the body. Making everything as flat as possible will reduce damage to the body, wires and connectors.
6. Seabeemarine came up with the cap screw rocker post upgrade.
https://arrmaforum.com/threads/suspension-rocker-post-upgrade.1617/
I bought the same #10-32 x 1-1/2" cap screws he did and used #10-ID x 3/8" fiber washers.
a. Remove the rocker post.
b. Put the cap screw through both bearings in the rocker.
c. Put the cap screw through the fiber washer.
d. Screw in the cap screw.
I snapped the front right rocker post and when I removed the front left it was bent and I could see it didn't have a lot of life left. The cap screws are so much stronger than the rocker posts. Maybe using a brass or steel washer would be better? I went with fiber. Time will show how well it holds up.