Hello all I'm new to the arrma family just purchased my first Nero without diff brain But will be upgrading it soon. So I've been researching a good hobby grade rc for awhile now and was gonna go with the traxxas e revo but then I stumbled across arrma and fell in love with the looks of the Nero and all the reviews were pretty darn good. I feel that I have made the right choice and can't wait to try this thing out. Besides the diff brain and servos what would be the best upgrades to do first to make this thing more bullet proof more so than it is
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- Thread starter Muddman
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Afro Samurai
Active Member
neither...but absolutely the first thing to do is to read the manual...and read the forums on problems people are having so you can prevent making the same mistakes / pitfalls all over again...after that it's all icing...
good luck dude...we are here to help...
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- #3
When you say neither what are you referencing
Afro Samurai
Active Member
neither ..or none of the upgrades make it bullet proof or more bullet proof...diff brain...servos...all seem to be in the noise when as we all are guilty of. ..open box...charge it up...running it...comeback 10 mins later and complain on forums about how something broke during the first run...I'm just trying to save you the headaches by stating the first thing to do is to get familiar with the vehicle and common complaints about the nero in this forum. ...it's not a slam...but a warning...you can see the trend for yourself...it's here...documented...sad to say some members have gotten so frustrated they have moved on ...but not always at the fault of the vehicle...
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- #5
Ya I appreciate the heads up. I've been in the hobby thing off and on over the years and know that speed versus size things break. I'm getting my son into hobby rc and so far he loves it. I started him off with a buggy and trophie truck from Helion due to cheep in price but fast and fun and things break especially when he runs it into the wrong side of the wooden ramp I built lol. I just bought myself the Nero cause I wanted something that would go and maintain and even upgrade with all kinds of cool parts (in place of real crawlers and mud trucks being those are $1000s)versus a little here a little there. I've always ran traxxas electric and nitro and new to arrma but from all the reviews and how I've seen this thing built it looks to be a well built machine. I kinda wish I would have just spent the extra $100 on the diff brain but like I said I will be getting that soon. I have been reading these forums like crazy and there's is so much info it's really awesome how everybody puts in what they do and what there fix is I plan on reading and continuing with these forums
Toolzero
Member
This is my advice for a new Nero.
1. The diff brain is pretty much pointless. Save $100.
2. Go over the entire truck and make sure every screw and bolt is tight.
3. Buy some drywall tape and shoe goo and reinforce the weak points of the body. The back half of the Nero body gets shredded fast, especially the rear body mount holes.
4. Buy some Break Free CLP and a small oil bottle with a needle. CLP all 12 U-joints, the drive shafts and axles, all bearings you can get to, and every screw head. CLP is excellent at rust prevention and keeping metal lubricated.
5. Move the motor wires from in between the rear shocks to the outside. Use the wire brace to make sure no wires are going to rub against anything or move. That area is going to get smashed a lot by the bed of the body. Make everything as flat as possible.
6. 2 of the common weak points are the rocker posts and rod ends. I replaced my rocker posts with solid cap screws and washers after I broke the first one. I haven't broke a rod end yet. Make sure you are familiar with these parts and areas.
7. Go drive! Have fun! I went through 12 charges before a broke my first part. Other people broke stuff in their first 5 minutes. You can't anticipate every problem. Go drive. Enjoy. Deal with stuff as it comes.
1. The diff brain is pretty much pointless. Save $100.
2. Go over the entire truck and make sure every screw and bolt is tight.
3. Buy some drywall tape and shoe goo and reinforce the weak points of the body. The back half of the Nero body gets shredded fast, especially the rear body mount holes.
4. Buy some Break Free CLP and a small oil bottle with a needle. CLP all 12 U-joints, the drive shafts and axles, all bearings you can get to, and every screw head. CLP is excellent at rust prevention and keeping metal lubricated.
5. Move the motor wires from in between the rear shocks to the outside. Use the wire brace to make sure no wires are going to rub against anything or move. That area is going to get smashed a lot by the bed of the body. Make everything as flat as possible.
6. 2 of the common weak points are the rocker posts and rod ends. I replaced my rocker posts with solid cap screws and washers after I broke the first one. I haven't broke a rod end yet. Make sure you are familiar with these parts and areas.
7. Go drive! Have fun! I went through 12 charges before a broke my first part. Other people broke stuff in their first 5 minutes. You can't anticipate every problem. Go drive. Enjoy. Deal with stuff as it comes.
Dopeman
Active Member
I keep seeing so many posts about people having problems with the diff brain. Post after post after post. I'm glad I didn't get it. My green Nero is a beast without it. To me, it just seems like something else to fix. Now, a super strong steering servo could be nice. I would make sure the replacement servo is waterproof.
Walterino
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[Quote = "Muddman, posta: 26771, membro: 2311"] Ciao a tutti sono nuovo alla famiglia arrma appena acquistato il mio primo Nero senza diff cervello Ma sarà l'aggiornamento al più presto. Così ho fatto ricerche un buon passatempo grado rc per un po 'ora e stavo per andare con la Traxxas E Revo, ma poi mi sono imbattuto in arrma e si innamorò con l'aspetto di Nero e tutte le recensioni erano davvero buona. Sento che ho fatto la scelta giusta e non vedo l'ora di provare questa cosa. Oltre il cervello diff e servi quali sarebbero i migliori aggiornamenti per fare primo a fare questa cosa di più a prova di proiettile di più di quello che è [/ quote]
Ciao, Posso chieerti cosa ne pensi dell'Arrma Nero? Sono molto indeciso tra Arrma o Traxxas, grazie.
Ciao, Posso chieerti cosa ne pensi dell'Arrma Nero? Sono molto indeciso tra Arrma o Traxxas, grazie.
Huh?
I totally agree with Afro and Toolzero! Get to know every nut and bolt! I have Nero W/diff brain and even after 7 months of bashing (nothing hard core or stupid) using all modes nothing has broken other than 2 rod ends. Diff brain installation and maintenance will take patience and perseverance. Decide whether you want simplicity or options.
CL-Audio
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Wish they made Nero diffs without the holes so that we non brainers could tune the diffs with oil and not have to modify the darn things.
Great suggestions here man.
4. I use that to clean my guns. You use as a straight up lubricant? Can you give me some more details on your application of clp please?
5. Is there a thread or vid showing this? Think I may have saw one but can't find it.
6. What did you use here? Part numbers, etc.
Thanks.
Great suggestions here man.
4. I use that to clean my guns. You use as a straight up lubricant? Can you give me some more details on your application of clp please?
5. Is there a thread or vid showing this? Think I may have saw one but can't find it.
6. What did you use here? Part numbers, etc.
Thanks.
Toolzero
Member
4. My Nero gets wet, especially when I use the hose to spray off all of the mud. All of the screws started to rust a lot. I have a lot of guns and Break Free CLP is fantastic for Cleaning, Lubricating, and Protecting steel. One day I made the connection that all of the Nero metal parts are treated steel, just like the steel used in guns. I hit every steel part of the Nero with CLP and it loves me for it. The cleaning and lubrication properties do wonders for keeping the bearings running smooth. The Lubrication and Protect keep all of the screws, U-Joints, and drive shafts (especially the insides of the drive shafts) from rusting and getting nasty. CLP is not a grease so it doesn't get gunky like grease. There are other gun cleaning products out there that might be slightly better at certain things, but there have been some excellent studies done where they compared dozens of protectants by leaving metal outside for months and CLP finished in the top 3. That's good enough for me. I am really happy with it and recommend people use it on their RC cars. I bought a small applicator bottle with a micro needle that lets me get fractions of a drop of CLP exactly where it want it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BNI6TOE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
5. Take off the plastic cage over the ESC so you can move the wires around easier. (And replace the garbage ESC mounting tape with good mounting tape, while you are in there.) Remove the rear right shock and move the ESC wires to the outside and secure them loosely with a zip tie. (I moved the shocks to the innermost position.) Re-position the XT90 battery connectors and wires so they create less battery wire slack when the batteries are connected. This whole area is going to get smashed over and over by the bed of the body. Making everything as flat as possible will reduce damage to the body, wires and connectors.
6. Seabeemarine came up with the cap screw rocker post upgrade. https://arrmaforum.com/threads/suspension-rocker-post-upgrade.1617/
I bought the same #10-32 x 1-1/2" cap screws he did and used #10-ID x 3/8" fiber washers.
a. Remove the rocker post.
b. Put the cap screw through both bearings in the rocker.
c. Put the cap screw through the fiber washer.
d. Screw in the cap screw.
I snapped the front right rocker post and when I removed the front left it was bent and I could see it didn't have a lot of life left. The cap screws are so much stronger than the rocker posts. Maybe using a brass or steel washer would be better? I went with fiber. Time will show how well it holds up.
CL-Audio
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Toolzero
Member
With that oil bottle/needle I can put such a small amount of CLP exactly where I want it that I don't need to wipe it away. My entire Nero collects dirt and mud. I do not care about dust. The longer the CLP sits on the metal the better the metal is protected for the long term. I'm glad this info helps you. Once of these days I plan to write up a beginner's guide to the Nero.
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- #15
So I had my first real carnage with my Nero. I'm just gonna say that mailboxes done move lol. Never the less I was looking for parts all over and found aluminum rod ends and was wondering what everybodies thoughts were. I didn't want to just keep buying plastic when that something I've heard strips out. They say that they are 4mm at the thread end and over all the same as the original plastic parts
Some parts are meant to break in order to protect others.
Replacing rod ends is quick,simple,and cheap.
Replacing rod ends is quick,simple,and cheap.
