Notorious Notorious v5 Ride height and rake

[lee82gx]

I received a new kit - yay.
So, I'd like to ask a few things regarding suspension setup and drive train setup.
Suspension -
- Default ride height with 6s, 6000ish mAh seems to have the negative rake whereby the front axle is higher than the rear - Unusual to a on-road setup. Is this correct?

What is the impact of changing the ride height to flat or as "usual" front lower than rear? Less wheelies? Less flipping?

I am going to change the diff oils to F/R/C 60k/30k/500k.

I was thinking of doing plenty of backflips but if things start breaking I'm sure I will stop. Also I only plan to full throttle while on gentle squeeze, most times I will limit the throttle to 75% on the 6s batteries (I only have 3s and 6s in series).

Other than that - screws, steering end points and steering rates, motor temps will be checked. I also want to mess around with the punch. Hopefully default is enough, IDK.

 

[SrC]

To start out when new, I set my Shock Droop Screws and Shock spring Preload so all the "Arm"s are level, both front and rear. With its full running weight. Being a SWB it will want to wheelie like crazy. Normal for a Noto. Turn ESC punch down a bit to control some of that in the beginning, until your Thr. finger controls it well enough. Default Punch setting is quite alot. Turn your ESC Motor Timing all the way down to keep motor temps nice and cool as can be. An ESC Firma programmer will make ESC adjustments way easier and quicker.
Your oil choice good. You did your research well. Use Mugen Seiki E0206 diff Sat and Sun gear shims when you do change out the oils. Pack comes with enough shims to do all 3 diffs.The stock diff shims are a weak link IMO. Toss them. Been using the Mugen shims for years now. They are made of Spring Steel , not cheap tin metal. I also shim the diff's main/ input gear backlash well enough. I use Tekno TKR1222 shims. Spare Stock ones should be included in the box. Extras are good to have, as they are delicate. Out the box it might not be shimmed well enough. A break in of the diffs, a few packs , then shim it is also an option.
Go over your Radio Steering endpoint adjustment like you stated. Don't trust the factory setting. I go the extra mile and also calibrate the ESC with the radio as well. Again, Factory doing this is not always spot in. Check tire gluing well before running it. Then Vent, and finally balance the wheels. Tidy up loose main power wiring so they don't flop around. Use Nylon wire ties. One good worthy upgrade in the very beginning, is running Alloy Fr and Rr chassis braces. EXB/ HR/ or M2c's are fine. The plastic stocker ones are not all that for bashing.
The rest of the rig with it's stock parts are fine for use. How I fly. The Arrma metal diff upgrade option for the Center Diff Only is one other consideration. Center diff gets real hot. Over 220F! Can possibly even melt the plastic stocker diff cup. Been there. 500k oil helps with this as well. But Adding more and more upgrade parts than you really need, just makes it heaver. Enjoy your new Toy.
I like my V1 Blue Noto also. She is a looker.

>>>I mostly break Arms and Wing mounts on it, if anything. Driver error. I sometimes use RPM Nylon wing mounts. Boiling them for 10 min in water first. Are more flexibe this way. 3DRC also makes a very good wing mount. Many here use them. Consider buying the Front Arrma EXB Basher Bumper instead , if your stock Noto bumper breaks.

Edited.

 

[lee82gx]

To start out when new, I set my Shock Droop Screws and Shock spring Preload so all the "Arm"s are level, both front and rear. With its full running weight. Being a SWB it will want to wheelie like crazy. Normal for a Noto. Turn ESC punch down a bit to control some of that in the beginning, until your Thr. finger controls it well enough. Default Punch setting is quite alot. Turn your ESC Motor Timing all the way down to keep motor temps nice and cool as can be. An ESC Firma programmer will make ESC adjustments way easier and quicker.
Your oil choice good. You did your research well. Use Mugen Seiki E0206 diff Sat and Sun gear shims when you do change out the oils. Pack comes with enough shims to do all 3 diffs.The stock diff shims are a weak link IMO. Toss them. Been using the Mugen shims for years now. They are made of Spring Steel , not cheap tin metal. I also shim the diff's main/ input gear backlash well enough. I use Tekno TKR1222 shims. Spare Stock ones should be included in the box. Extras are good to have, as they are delicate. Out the box it might not be shimmed well enough. A break in of the diffs, a few packs , then shim it is also an option.
Go over your Radio Steering endpoint adjustment like you stated. Don't trust the factory setting. I go the extra mile and also calibrate the ESC with the radio as well. Again, Factory doing this is not always spot in. Check tire gluing well before running it. Then Vent, and finally balance the wheels. Tidy up loose main power wiring so they don't flop around. Use Nylon wire ties. One good worthy upgrade in the very beginning, is running Alloy Fr and Rr chassis braces. EXB/ HR/ or M2c's are fine. The plastic stocker ones are not all that for bashing.
The rest of the rig with it's stock parts are fine for use. How I fly. The Arrma metal diff upgrade option for the Center Diff Only is one other consideration. Center diff gets real hot. Over 220F! Can possibly even melt the plastic stocker diff cup. Been there. 500k oil helps with this as well. But Adding more and more upgrade parts than you really need, just makes it heaver. Enjoy your new Toy.
I like my V1 Blue Noto also. She is a looker.

>>>I mostly break Arms and Wing mounts on it, if anything. Driver error. I sometimes use RPM Nylon wing mounts. Boiling them for 10 min in water first. Are more flexibe this way. 3DRC also makes a very good wing mount. Many here use them. Consider buying the Front Arrma EXB Basher Bumper instead , if your stock Noto bumper breaks.

Edited.

I already have ordered the aluminium center diff upgrade, will likely swap in very soon, together with the shims E0206 shims. Ditto EXB Basher bumper. I'm thinking to jump straight ahead with that so that I can keep the stock Number plate "mint" lol.

Regarding wing mount - Is it beneficial to boil the stock ones before running too?
3DRC is too far from Sunny Malaysia to reach economically.

Question - Chassis Braces F/R alloy - Is it a good idea to directly swap or just replace when it breaks? I think it will never break by itself but the chassis will bend, correct? By then it will be too late to get the benefit of upgrading? I can get some not too expensively, I reckon cheap low grade chinese aluminium will still be tougher than HD Composite plastic?