Kraton Ordering Kraton, what else should be in my cart!

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I was thinking of that one as my next step up, but wasn't sure how to power the thing. 80A out means at least 80A in, more to avoid stressing the PSU, so 90A+ PSU at 18V+ to get max wattage. I haven't found such an animal yet.

you have to look at wattage out /wattage in, not amps. If you are charging at 14.4v or 22.2v - you will have more amps in than out.

But yeah, PSU's over 1050w get pricy. I think I would be OK with my 1050w PSU, I just could not max out all 4 channels at the same time. But, also, seeing as I have one of the 2-channel chargers already, it would be better (for me) to get a second 2-channel. Run them both off the same PSU, just watch the load...
 
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Do you know if you need higher voltage to get the full power out of the Reaktor chargers?

I don't think so. I have had my charger up to about 220w x2 on 12vdc. I don't see anything in the quad manual that speaks of an upper limit on 12v. However 1200w at 12vdc would be 100amps - that is a LOT of juice for the input cable.
 
a few big PSU's -

https://www.progressiverc.com/chargery-s1200-power-supply.html

https://www.banggood.com/XLPower-24...Battery-Charger-p-1103982.html?rmmds=category

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/1200w-psu-us-plug.html

And mine -
https://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=141&product_id=459

When I was shopping for my charger, I found several vendors selling the server PSU's stacked - 2x700w@12v to make 1400w @24v or even 2x 1050w to make 2100w @24v. I don't see any of these listed for sale now, though. The conversion was not hard, just a few internal jumpers between the PSU's so you can safely run them in series. But you have to have a bit of DIY spirit to do that... :)
 
Lol, thanks guys. Godamn chargers!!

What charger leads or adapters will I need for Graphene Batteries to be charged? Just the banana plug?

I noticed on hobby king the turnigy batteries seem to ship from Honk Kong,

I think I will order the Graphene 4s and 6s, as they ship from the states.
 
I thought the manual said that you needed 18V+ to get max wattage out of it. Will have to download it again, but have to head to work.
Yeah I'm not sure. Most of the high powered chargers I've seen have needed 18 or 24 volts+ to achieve full power but I'm not sure.

@Jerry-rigged I have seen 120 amp 12v power supplies before but I agree that is a lot of amps lol.
 
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All you need great charger
 
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You will also bend this on hard tire hit voltage hobby makes awesome parts
 
I'd probably buy this charger next. 200W dual output. No need for external power supply. I realize this thread is old and op has probably already progressed enough to have a kit he's happy with. Price is right for this product and ISDT is usually considered quality.
http://www.isdt.co/d2.html
 
I'd probably buy this charger next. 200W dual output. No need for external power supply. I realize this thread is old and op has probably already progressed enough to have a kit he's happy with. Price is right for this product and ISDT is usually considered quality.
http://www.isdt.co/d2.html

Hey brother, so this would be a solid choice?

Getting my Kraton V3 in November lol.
 
Hey brother, so this would be a solid choice?

Getting my Kraton V3 in November lol.
Should be, 12A x 2/200w x 2.

I wouldn't bother with that venom charger personally, it's only 8A x 2/80w x 2. Kind of light on the output for charging 3S or even high capacity 2S.
 
@TimboF150
I grazed through the post buy I'd suggest picking up some blue lock tite. 500k diff fluid (center diff). An extra pinion. Also straight drive torq drivers.

If you eventually need to replace parts, get RPM brands if possible. Also, ditch the stock tires and get the backflips (depending on environment you drive in).

Always glad so see someone getting a new Arrma. I got mine used (paid full price) during the Hobbico closing era. Glad that passed!

Bash on Brother!
 
Thanks man!

So in terms of fluids in the kraton..

All 3 differentials have fluid in them? Do they need to be topped up regularly?

How about the shocks, is it easy to access and change the fluid?

Are adding upgrades generally easy or do they require some mechanical inclinations.

I mean, I run a landscaping business so I'm not bad with my tools.
 
Thanks man!
So in terms of fluids in the kraton..
All 3 differentials have fluid in them? Do they need to be topped up regularly?
How about the shocks, is it easy to access and change the fluid?
Are adding upgrades generally easy or do they require some mechanical inclinations.
I mean, I run a landscaping business so I'm not bad with my tools.

This type of truck in general tends to be easy to work on due to the layout. The outcast is the same layout, but everything is kind of crammed into a smaller chassis. The Kraton and Talion leave you with a lot of room to work and things are relatively easy to replace or upgrade. The only thing I'd suggest is to get a very good set of allens, like MIP's. A tight fitting hard allen helps avoid screws stripping out on you constantly. MIP's may be pricey, but they last years. I have the speed bits and use them with a milwaukee M12 clutched screw gun. I have had my MIP bits for 4+ years and only recently touched up my 2mm bit by grinding off half a mm or so as the tip was finally starting to round off a bit.
 
I have a couple ISDT products (battery tester, discharger) and I like em. I do not have a ISDT charger though because I use a Kenexis KS-80 that I bought a couple years ago when I thought I would get into racing drones. Nonetheless, when I upgrade I will choose this brand. I like the design and capabilities for the cost and many friends I have in groups swear by ISDT.
I imagine they offer good support but again, I have no real-world experience.
 
This type of truck in general tends to be easy to work on due to the layout. The outcast is the same layout, but everything is kind of crammed into a smaller chassis. The Kraton and Talion leave you with a lot of room to work and things are relatively easy to replace or upgrade. The only thing I'd suggest is to get a very good set of allens, like MIP's. A tight fitting hard allen helps avoid screws stripping out on you constantly. MIP's may be pricey, but they last years. I have the speed bits and use them with a milwaukee M12 clutched screw gun. I have had my MIP bits for 4+ years and only recently touched up my 2mm bit by grinding off half a mm or so as the tip was finally starting to round off a bit.


I use this electric tool and these MIP drivers and can't recommend them enough. With the clutch as solid as it is, I consider this one of the best purchases I've made.
new tools.jpg
 
Thanks man!

So in terms of fluids in the kraton..

All 3 differentials have fluid in them? Do they need to be topped up regularly?

How about the shocks, is it easy to access and change the fluid?

Are adding upgrades generally easy or do they require some mechanical inclinations.

I mean, I run a landscaping business so I'm not bad with my tools.
The shocks are super easy to check. I reccomend checking the shocks for proper function after each drive, depending how hard you drive. My shock rod has shot through my piston and didnt know till i got home. It's as simple as twisting off the cap and giving visual inspection.

The diffs aren't too bad either. Check out some YouTube videos, they put together very well. Fun to work on too.

Enjoy!
 
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