Orientation of Motor Fan

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JustAnOutcast

JustAnOutcast

compulsive over-thinker, I think. 🤔
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Alright, hopefully I’m entitled to one dumb question a day, so here goes…

I’ve got the top and bottom figured out, but based on this pic, does it really matter which is front and back? It’s 35mmx35mm, but the M symbol is confusing me.

Thanks for all replies! Even condescending ones will be accepted graciously. :giggle:

620D6CA3-21A3-4BAF-B475-2B877396E620.jpeg
 
JustAnOutcast said:
Alright, hopefully I’m entitled to one dumb question a day, so here goes…

I’ve got the top and bottom figured out, but based on this pic, does it really matter which is front and back? It’s 35mmx35mm, but the M symbol is confusing me.

Thanks for all replies! Even condescending ones will be accepted graciously. :giggle:

View attachment 253902
Click to expand...

You got it right.

Down arrow towards heatsink.
 
This is a good question, as most fans will not have markings. Some will argue about mounting fans that suck air away from the motor, but the standard config is blowing down, across the motor or heatsink. I don't know of any manufacturers that deviates from that in stock form. Worst case, if there isn't any arrows at all, connect up a battery and power on the RX and TX and use that to determine which way the fan is blowing before install (y)
 
Hector_Fisher said:
This is a good question, as most fans will not have markings. Some will argue about mounting fans that suck air away from the motor, but the standard config is blowing down, across the motor or heatsink. I don't know of any manufacturers that deviates from that in stock form. Worst case, if there isn't any arrows at all, connect up a battery and power on the RX and TX and use that to determine which way the fan is blowing before install (y)
Click to expand...
So I guess the M stands for motor? What does the triangle represent?
 
All I know is that I can look at the Fan blades and clearly see that the blades pitch will blow air in one direction. I make it blow air to the HS or motor.
Those Arrows for Rotation and Direction of air Flow are sometimes incorrectly marked anyway with many cheap China fans that I got over the years. Running opposite to what the arrows are.
Triangle means nothing. M means nothing also. Most fans just have the two arrows.
I recommend using no HS.
A fan mount alone will cool off motors better. A motor is already a Heatsink by itself anyway.

:cool:
 
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See I was just focusing on the arrows. I was also guessing arrows were flow direction and rotation. For M I figured it was for "mount" :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
That's it m4 18mm I couldn't remember the size. Keep it oem size and length. They are like butter for some reason and strip. Own 12 Arrma's after 4 or 5 stripped, I yanked them all out. I went with these I know their slightly softer but due to the shape hold up better. 2 years later 0 stripped. There is better , then again there is always better out there but $$$$$$

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Hector_Fisher said:
See I was just focusing on the arrows. I was also guessing arrows were flow direction and rotation. For M I figured it was for "mount" :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
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If you plug the fan Into power, turn it on, is another easy way see air flow direction.
 
jkflow said:
They will strip as well and if you have a small pinion it will interfere with the top cover for teh center diff.

Get MIP tools, they are worth the money, and you won't strip anything else.
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^^ I've cranked down hard on my EXB motor mount, stock screws, with my MIP driver bits. Never even got close to feeling like it was going to strip.
 
Here's one solution....... to future headaches.
From @RedondoBeachRC (y)

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/titanium-6s-motor-mount-screws.56881/
Hector_Fisher said:
^^ I've cranked down hard on my EXB motor mount, stock screws, with my MIP driver bits. Never even got close to feeling like it was going to strip.
Click to expand...
I've stripped many an OE Motor mount screw. Using MIP's and all. At some point the Stocker screws will let you down. Especially if you are using Blue Threadlocker like you should be. Need to heat the screws before removing, or it is a guarranteed fail in many cases. especially with a rusted out hex screw. When it happens I use a dremel cutoff wheel to make a slit across the top and use a flat head to remove it. Replacing it with a better quality 3mm Socket hex screw head. The Stocker button head suck. Hex is too shallow. If you run very small pinions, or spurs you may run into mesh clearance issues with the inner most screw hitting the diffs top cover, however. No matter which screws you use. This rarely happens with my gear setups. Depends on your rig.
 
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JustAnOutcast said:
Wow! Thanks for the tip. Please tell me more.
I just checked the online parts list and it’s Arrma part # ARA727412 and it’s an M4 x 18mm. So going to a smaller, shorter screw will help?
Click to expand...

I have these Titanium M4x18mm screws to replace it if you’re interested.
D382E8AC-1C47-4912-9739-A5677E9D5BF5.jpeg

C5BD5EBA-AD1D-4B80-90CD-6CC36A841110.jpeg
 
Thanks again for the tip. I’m so overwhelmed with information right now it’s hard to digest it all, but I’m definitely making a note of it! (y)
 
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