Outcast Outcast 4s 2.5 - aluminum knuckles/block?

[pierre1111]

After maybe 3-4 packs through an outcast 2.5 I noticed a couple of the wheels have wobble to them.

Some incoming from the wheel bearings - that’s an easy fix.

The rest is coming from the hole in the knuckle where the smooth unthreaded part of the screw rides in. I don’t see any cracks but it’s clearly enlarged. I’m surprised there’s no bearings or bushings at this point, just a steel screw pivoting in plastic

I know certain things like lower arms are best kept plastic to allow flex. Are aluminum knuckles and blocks ok or should I stick to plastic? Yes I was harsh on it with all the flips and whatnot but after only a few packs this much wear seems excessive. Just looking for more durability

 

[hobo]

After maybe 3-4 packs through an outcast 2.5 I noticed a couple of the wheels have wobble to them.

Some incoming from the wheel bearings - that’s an easy fix.

The rest is coming from the hole in the knuckle where the smooth unthreaded part of the screw rides in. I don’t see any cracks but it’s clearly enlarged. I’m surprised there’s no bearings or bushings at this point, just a steel screw pivoting in plastic

I know certain things like lower arms are best kept plastic to allow flex. Are aluminum knuckles and blocks ok or should I stick to plastic? Yes I was harsh on it with all the flips and whatnot but after only a few packs this much wear seems excessive. Just looking for more durability

not got any 4s cars are you sure it wasn't like that before you run it. I no the 6s line have a lot of slop out the box.

 

[pierre1111]

Good point. I can’t know for sure as I didn’t try wiggling things before the first run. I just noticed it when changing tires. But my Kraton 4s that’s seen many more packs is still relatively tight.

Either way it needs fixing and I don’t mind $50 vs $15 if they will last significantly longer

 

[PittsburghJason]

I was wondering the same thing on another vehicle with sloppy plastic steering knuckles, but I break them all the time. If I got aluminum, I am afraid something else may start breaking. I am ok with them breaking but not the slop so I am getting rpm plastic steering knuckles to see if they are any tighter, but rpm doesn't make them for the outcast 4s.

We are stuck with aftermarket aluminum or plastic stock arrma.

I don't think aluminum would be a problem on any rc for the steering knuckles/axle carriers, but other parts will break.
Specifically aluminum steering/axle carriers will put more stress on the shock towers. If you have plastic shock towers they will start breaking along with camber rod ends and if you have aluminum shock towers, the shock screws snap off along with rod ends. No aluminum shock towers/top diff covers for our outcasts, but I think integy has aluminum shock tower braces that fit the v2.5 which I want to get because that was the first part I broke.

Check out the design of the xmaxx ultimate and how they didn't use aluminum on the arms or shock towers.

 

[neighborhater383ci]

After maybe 3-4 packs through an outcast 2.5 I noticed a couple of the wheels have wobble to them.

Some incoming from the wheel bearings - that’s an easy fix.

The rest is coming from the hole in the knuckle where the smooth unthreaded part of the screw rides in. I don’t see any cracks but it’s clearly enlarged. I’m surprised there’s no bearings or bushings at this point, just a steel screw pivoting in plastic

I know certain things like lower arms are best kept plastic to allow flex. Are aluminum knuckles and blocks ok or should I stick to plastic? Yes I was harsh on it with all the flips and whatnot but after only a few packs this much wear seems excessive. Just looking for more durability

Just get the bushings from the 3s c blocks and press them into the blocks of your 4s. I hated the slop and found those fit, works better if you run a drill bit the same size as the hole through for a sec just to waller out the hole

 

[pierre1111]

Nice! They will fit the stock kingpin screws? I take it you did the bottoms too so two per wheel? Come to think of it this would probably be a good idea even with aluminum parts.

I wonder why these didn’t make it to the “2.5” 4s line.

 

[neighborhater383ci]

Nice! They will fit the stock kingpin screws? I take it you did the bottoms too so two per wheel? Come to think of it this would probably be a good idea even with aluminum parts.

I wonder why these didn’t make it to the “2.5” 4s line.

Yessir the stock screw fits perfect

 

[H1-ROADBLOK]

Just get the bushings from the 3s c blocks and press them into the blocks of your 4s. I hated the slop and found those fit, works better if you run a drill bit the same size as the hole through for a sec just to waller out the hole

You got a part number for those parts? I don't know where to look to try to find them.

 

[pierre1111]

He mentions from 3s - I just looked at the 3s granite diagram

ARAC3906