jonUF02
Active Member
I want something a 3-4 year old can learn to drive at WOT without damaging anything or anyone. Not really concerned about the technical aspects of crawling per se, just the fact that crawlers are slow RCs.
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This. A Redcat Gen7 is $200, and will out-crawl a highly modified Granite any day. A Redcat Gen 8 is $350, and will outcrawl 80% of RTR scaler crawlers...Just get a basic crawler. I don't think you will be able to get anywhere near the same articulation with the Granite suspension and chassis you could get with a actual crawler. If you want to crawl over stuff and go slow get a crawler. If you just want to slow things down to learn on then speed things up get a Granite.
I want something a 3-4 year old can learn to drive at WOT without damaging anything or anyone. Not really concerned about the technical aspects of crawling per se, just the fact that crawlers are slow RCs.
I want something a 3-4 year old can learn to drive at WOT without damaging anything or anyone. Not really concerned about the technical aspects of crawling per se, just the fact that crawlers are slow RCs.
This. A Redcat Gen7 is $200, and will out-crawl a highly modified Granite any day. A Redcat Gen 8 is $350, and will outcrawl 80% of RTR scaler crawlers...
With kids that young, it is more about the kid than the car. I tried to get my two younger kids into RC at 5 and 6 (they are a year apart). The 6yo wanted to go WOT everywhere, and tended to stay on the throttle long after the car had crashed... LOL my 5 yo quickly learned throttle control, and I would let her drive my Kraton, on 4s. Now, several years later, my son (who had throttle issues) love the crawlers, my girl loves to go fast on the track. And make the car crash and cartwheel for 50'.... LOL
If just slowing down the RC is the goal, then just run the truck on the 50% setting. If that is not slow enough, spend your money on a radio like the RC4Gs or a Dx5C. These have digital end-point adjustments, so you can dial the speed down as slow as you like it. Also, you can set up several model profiles. On my RC4G, I have a "Kid" profile, and a "Dad" profile. For the Kid - throttle is set to like 30%. 5 second of button click, and Dad has 100% power for my turn...
To me, installing a low KV motor is more of a neutering. With the radio EPA or DR, you can dial it up or down as needed.I actually prefer this instead of neutering the power with the radio.
Intresting to hear that. I wonder if the Traxxas training mode also changes the throttle curves or something else? With my RC4G, I use the EPA and DR a lot to change the speed. For kids, like I mentioned, but also for myself, at the track. (My Typhon has 3 Model memory slots on my radio, Bash (100%) Track (80%) and kid (30%)). I will run 4s on 60% for my warm up pack, then slowly dial up the throttle as I get in the groove, normally up to about 80%. This past weekend, I was running 6s at the track (didn't have enough 4s packs) with the DR set to to 60%. (used DR instead of EPA because it hits reverse too). Running the track, the feel of the truck was the same as running 4s at 80%. Later a 12yo with a 2wd brushed slash showed up, I dialed the throttle DR back to 40% and handed him the radio. Really, quick and easy.I do have the Traxxas radio system with bluetooth app where I can set the training mode % easily to whatever I want, but I would rather just have a truck that is slow as designed; on and off without fooling around, just for the kids. Training mode limited by software has a strange throttle feel, very artificial. I think the purpose build would feel more natural and drive better interest from the kids.
Already tried turning down my Outcast 4s, feels very weird and artificial, also want two separate trucks.
If it feels weird to turn it down on the radio, it will feel just as weird with a slow motor that makes a pseudo-crawler... The Radio is not what is making it feel off, the truck is designed to run 30-50mph. At 10mph, it will just not be the same. It does not matter whether you turn it down or put a slow motor in it.Already tried turning down my Outcast 4s, feels very weird and artificial, also want two separate trucks.
I should say it feels weird at 20% to slow it down that much. Training mode at 50-80% probably not so bad, but too fast.
Do they make escs with 100% reverse?If it feels weird to turn it down on the radio, it will feel just as weird with a slow motor that makes a pseudo-crawler... The Radio is not what is making it feel off, the truck is designed to run 30-50mph. At 10mph, it will just not be the same. It does not matter whether you turn it down or put a slow motor in it.
One thing that is "weird" - from what I read, the 75%/50% switch on the radio seems to disable reverse and dials the breaks to almost zero. If you have a radio with seperate EPA for forward and backward, then this is not an issue. You can turn down forward and leave reverse the same. Just make sure your ESC has reverse NOT set to 100%. Yup, I made that mistake... LOL
Could u send me the link for that spur & pinon. I have same set up a hobbiewing max10 sct 3660SL motor 4000Kv.Depends on the size of motor you are running. I am currently running a 23T Pinion and 91T Spur with a 4000Kv HobbyWing motor.
What spur pinon combo would work best for granite 4x4 with hobbywing ezrun max10 sct e660sl 4000kVIf you are running the stock motor, stay with the 14t/91t stock gearing. The motor barely has power to turn that gear, any higher, and it will just overheat quicker. If you are planning a brushless upgrade -
Pinion - the stock motor mount is a 'noob mount' - with paired holes for specific pinions. Makes getting the correct gear mesh easy (no adjustment) but limits your pinion choices (no adjustment). From the factory, your only choices are a 14t, 17t, or 27t. Several of us have simply cut between two of the holes (made a channel) so that we can mount any size pinion you want. Easy to do, but be sure and use a washer under the motor mount screw after you cut the mount.
Spur - If you want to stay with a Arrma drop in replacement, right now your only option is the stock 91t spur. In another month or so Arrma should be (hopefully) stocking the newer BLX4s spurs - M0.8/32p, 57t. (The stock 91t 48p is about equal to a 60t 32p). It will need the whole HD slipper to go with it.
If you like to mod, several of us have fitted 32p spur gears from the Axial Yeti. They are 32p, and available in several sized from 56t up to about 64t? Also metal gear options. A bit of custom work is required, but nothing hard. Here is a video I made on the conversion. Note - for the spur spacer, in this video, I used a strip of soda can as a spiral wound spacer, that did not last, I swapped to a spacer made from .018" SS plate(I think that is 24gauge?). Hopefully this will last longer.
Dang! Little man ,let's not set dude up for failure! "HR is junk" ! The teeth on there spur's are dang near square??Hot Racing makes awesome spur gears. If you get one I would highly suggest using Robinson Racing Hardened pinions other wise the Hot Racing spur will eat them up.
Dang! Little man ,let's not set dude up for failure! "HR is junk" ! The teeth on there spur's are dang near square??
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What spur pinon combo would work best for granite 4x4 with hobbywing ezrun max10 sct e660sl 4000kV??expand...
The 4000kv motor has higher rev but less torque so you should probably go 13t ,14t or 15t max pinion with the standard 57t spur , beware off when off road that your motor may get hot , the 3200kv is better suited to the GraniteWhat spur pinon combo would work best for granite 4x4 with hobbywing ezrun max10 sct e660sl 4000kV??
Dang! Little man ,let's not set dude up for failure! "HR is junk" ! The teeth on there spur's are dang near square??
View attachment 131634
View attachment 131635
You seem like you are very knowledgeable, Do you think you could help me with a pinion for my granite v3 brushless conversion?If you are running the stock motor, stay with the 14t/91t stock gearing. The motor barely has power to turn that gear, any higher, and it will just overheat quicker. If you are planning a brushless upgrade -
Pinion - the stock motor mount is a 'noob mount' - with paired holes for specific pinions. Makes getting the correct gear mesh easy (no adjustment) but limits your pinion choices (no adjustment). From the factory, your only choices are a 14t, 17t, or 27t. Several of us have simply cut between two of the holes (made a channel) so that we can mount any size pinion you want. Easy to do, but be sure and use a washer under the motor mount screw after you cut the mount.
Spur - If you want to stay with a Arrma drop in replacement, right now your only option is the stock 91t spur. In another month or so Arrma should be (hopefully) stocking the newer BLX4s spurs - M0.8/32p, 57t. (The stock 91t 48p is about equal to a 60t 32p). It will need the whole HD slipper to go with it.
If you like to mod, several of us have fitted 32p spur gears from the Axial Yeti. They are 32p, and available in several sized from 56t up to about 64t? Also metal gear options. A bit of custom work is required, but nothing hard. Here is a video I made on the conversion. Note - for the spur spacer, in this video, I used a strip of soda can as a spiral wound spacer, that did not last, I swapped to a spacer made from .018" SS plate(I think that is 24gauge?). Hopefully this will last longer.
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