Pivot Ball Maintenance

[BillyBones]

Wheel Bearing Replacement or just cleaning was not to bad all in all BUT four little hard as hell to break loose Set Screw 5x5mm lol if you cant get this out your screwed lol I rather have to check screw after run then go threw that again

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ARRMA AR724505 Set Screw 5x5mm (10 Screws)

 

[SrC]

I don't have any problems with Red TL on those large set crews when I reuse them. It's the only place I do use RedTL. Blue all elsewhere. Arrma just tends to use way too much. Use heat to remove. Always. Not using TL will be an issue for sure. And that will get tired real fast when the set screw comes out while bashing. Those input cups and input gears are not cheap. We all use TL. At minimum use TL 242/243. Most any TL needs 24 hours to set/cure before use. Or it is useless, IMO. That blue paste TL seen on those set crews do nothing IMO. It is not a "Reactive" TL. I try to remove as much of that as possible and use Liquid TL. The two don't mix. TL only works metal to metal. Clean non oily threads always.

 

[slick2500]

Pretty much any screw going into metal on these rigs is going to have red threadlock on it, heat up the screw before you try to remove it or you will strip out the screw.

 

[BillyBones]

I don't have any problems with Red TL on those large set crews when I reuse them. It's the only place I do use RedTL. Blue all elsewhere. Arrma just tends to use way too much. Use heat to remove. Always. Not using TL will be an issue for sure. And that will get tired real fast when the set screw comes out while bashing. Those input cups and input gears are not cheap. We all use TL. At minimum use TL 242/243. Most any TL needs 24 hours to set/cure before use. Or it is useless, IMO. That blue paste TL seen on those set crews do nothing IMO. It is not a "Reactive" TL. I try to remove as much of that as possible and use Liquid TL. The two don't mix. TL only works metal to metal. Clean non oily threads always.

if set screw comes out while racing nothing will happen lol look at nutt no way pin fall out also never use lock tight been week never falls out lol even if does nothing will happen to my how you say Those input cups and input gears are not cheap what are you talking about lol unless your tire falls off I think most would stop

 

[SrC]

I lost you... all good.

 

[slick2500]

I lost you... all good.

I think he was trying to say why do they have threadlock on them anyway, there is no way for the pins to fall out as they get captured by the wheel. That's what I got anyway.

 

[Wmorgan]

Anyone use JB Weld for pivot balls in A-Arms? Is it ok on the plastic? My Kraton A-Arms have some age and are stripped out and refuse to replace em if they aren't broke. I've done the plumbers tape and super glue trick but still manage to twist loose.

 

[SentFlying]

Try thin wire.

 

[Wmorgan]

Try thin wire.

Just thread it on the pivot ball and then screw in?

 

[SentFlying]

Just thread it on the pivot ball and then screw in?

Cut strands and insert into the hole. Leave a little extra to fold over the edge.

 

[jkflow]

For a more permanent fix use a helicoil repair kit.
The M6 kit is the right one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30Pcs-Metr...var=432170723609&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[SentFlying]

For a more permanent fix use a helicoil repair kit.
The M6 kit is the right one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30Pcs-Metr...var=432170723609&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Nice!

 

[Wmorgan]

For a more permanent fix use a helicoil repair kit.
The M6 kit is the right one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30Pcs-Metr...var=432170723609&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Thanks for that! So M6 for the 1/8 scale 6s A-Arms?? Just want to be sure bc I'm going to try this out.

 

[jkflow]

Yes, M6 is correct for 1/8 scale.

 

[slick2500]

How well do those hold in plastic?

 

[jkflow]

Doing this currently on my old RPM arms. I typically had a ball move (pull out slightly) on every bash session between my 2 RC's. Nothing since I've had these installed, 3 sessions into it.
1 coil per arm, tried 2 but that was bad idea, doesn't work out well.

 

[SrC]

Just replace the parts already dude. Come on. You are spending time and money on materials to fix a worn out part that costs as much??
It's time to replace. IMHO.
Jb weld is permanent and you will need to replace the balls needlessly at some point as well as the arms together. When new I use E6000/Shoe goo after I prethreads the arm first. I never have my balls stripped out anymore, yet it is removable and adjustable for camber still. The above assumes we are talking about the front arms and Pillow balls.

 

[Soppy]

How well do those hold in plastic?

I used them on my rear diff for the wing mount screws. They've held up for a month so far and I broke 1 wing. I ended up using a small flat screwdriver to install them as the insertion tool kept breaking the tang.

 

[Wmorgan]

Just replace the parts already dude. Come on. You are spending time and money on materials to fix a worn out part that costs as much??
It's time to replace. IMHO.
Jb weld is permanent and you will need to replace the balls needlessly at some point as well as the arms together. When new I use E6000/Shoe goo after I prethreads the arm first. I never have my balls stripped out anymore, yet it is removable and adjustable for camber still. The above assumes we are talking about the front arms and Pillow balls.
[/QUOT
No!! I refuse to replace an A-arm that isn't broke!! You told me all i need to know...jb weld is permanent! If i have to melt the GD broke A-arm off the pivot ball then so be it!! ?

 

[SrC]

Stripped threads = BROKEN.
An Easy Concept.
Stop already.