Rear camber link flex

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roger nelson

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Arrma RC's
  1. Fury
i am getting "mega" flex from the rear camber links. Seems to wear the inside of my tires faster than the outside. I am wondering if the bls or blx will help keep a better camber? Anyone tried this?
 
Not adjustable. But what you have would work well Unusual Rc.

The camber is the angle of the wheel with the vertical, looked from the front of the car.
On my Arrma Mojave/Fury's both BLX and MEGA versions have adjustable camber, by means of turning the top rod of the double wishbone suspension.

Every Arrma model has it's own default settings. Like for example my SCT's have front 0deg camber, at the rear 1,5 if I am not mistaken.

What exactly do you want to change on your car?
 
The Fury MEGA, actually all new MEGA models, come with fixed length camber using these parts:

COMPOSITE STEERING/CAMBER LINK SET - #AR330223
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Toys-Hobbies-/220/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=AR330223
upload_2015-8-5_11-31-28.png


You can upgrade to the linkages used on the BLS/BLX models which will give you adjustability. (@Unusual RC, You probably already have these on the older MEGA models). You'll need the following:

 
Thanks for reminding me Arrma changed their Mega range ;)

I am constantly made aware the new trucks have less goodies default, like these non-adjustable rods.

Indeed I have those adjustable on all my tree Mojave/Fury's...

So for my understanding.

The new trucks have no:
- aluminum motor plate
- metal gears in the gearbox
- aluminum side plates
- adjustable camber rods
 
I was suprised after I changed motors and saw the plastic motor mount. Shame. Get what you pay for.still gonna drive it like a rental!
 
I do not understand why Arrma changed this. As a new brand back in 2011 they provided all the goods you had to pay a lot more for with other brands.

That is one of the reasons they stood out compared with the other brands.

Now they are like the others: you have to buy upgrades to make your car better.

Hopefully the prices also dropped accordingly
 
I hit a fence post and popped rear a arm out of its hole. Now it randomly backs out. Even with lock tite. Makes a beautiful grinding noise when the dogbone is askew! The shock caps on the back are bout ready to do the pop thing. Front shocks have already. Camber links are starting to look like spaghetti noodles. Thinking about a savage flux. Plenty of bolt on parts. Maybe a cen colossus ! Wish they still had it in kit form. Been years since I have built one.sorry got off topic.still was a good bash session, as always! That Titan motor is one tough cookie! I have been trying to make it fail.
 
Well poop! I ordered the metal turnbuckles and received the shorter length 48mm ones instead. These are too short for the back. May be too short for the front too. Might cheat and get some all thread and make my own.
 
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Well poop! I ordered the metal turnbuckles and received the shorter length 48mm ones instead. These are too short for the back. May be too short for the front too. Might cheat and get some all thread and make my own.

Did you end up making the all thread camber links? I'm thinking of making some at 90mm for my Granite BLX with Revo rod ends to prevent the ball cups from popping off. I'm keen to know if you made some and of they worked well for you
 
The all thread I have found around here seems a bit thin. Years ago it worked fine,but lipo power has me wondering if that might be a "weak link"!
 
The all thread I have found around here seems a bit thin. Years ago it worked fine,but lipo power has me wondering if that might be a "weak link"!
Are you using M3 or M4? I plan to use M4 if I make my own and place alloy tube over the thread for extra strength. Here's some links I made for my Wraith, they have held up fine too even though I bent them to replicate Vanquish brand links :
hdr_1444222405812.jpg
 
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