Typhon Rear dog bones

[NewKratonuser0311]

Hey all I recently installed the hot racing aluminum rear hubs and new 91mm rear dog bones, from what I can tell the hot racing aluminum rear hubs seems to give the dog bones a lot more play between the hub and rear diff out drive cup. I don’t remember the stock ones having soo much play to the point where it sits on the lip or close to the lip of the drive cups. Has anyone else had this problem or is that much play normal. Any way to fix that.

 

[nino]

Glue o rings or something in the cups on the wheel side, so the dogbone can't go too far that way.

 

[SrC]

Glue o rings or something in the cups on the wheel side, so the dogbone can't go too far that way.

+1

At the rear when using the stock dog bones, You need to keep the EXB Rubber spacers inside the inboard output cups. Maybe you overlooked that. Or lost them altogether when you disassembled it?
I suspect using that HR stuff is not all that. Fit and all. I avoid HR when I can for this reason. Usually just paying more to go backwards.
When it shoud be plug and play out the package..... in a perfect RC world.
Honestly there is nothing wrong with replacing the Dog bones with the Arrma stockers at all. Or even running the stocker front CVDs at the rear is a common thing to do... Best IMHO. JennysRC has them.
Upgrade parts are not always better than OE. That is only an assumption that they are. And once an RC part breaks, usually from Driver error most of the time, many are quick to go with $upgrade brands$.
M2C would be a first pick Upgrade brand if anything. And worth the extra coin, for the precision of their parts alone.

 

[Garcbomber]

I tack weld my dog-bone outdrives on one slot side so it's “extremely difficult” to escape in operation. I'd rather bend and contain it than lose a needle in a haystack.

Another copycat from M2C for the visual learners.

 

[SrC]

+1
I agree. That's why many of my rear dog bones are painted a bright yellow. I always find them now. And I know they go flying once they let go, sometimes 30 feet away. I have found old lost Dog bones by accident at the same bash location months later, sitting in the grass all rusted. Despite trying to locate it for an hour. They are not cheap. I know.

However, running the Front CVD's at the rear will serve 2 purposes, you wont lose them and the rear driveline operates way better. Smoother.
Most decent 1/8 Track kits always run CVD's at the rear also . For this reason. Cheaper dog bones are found with the cheaper RTR's.
I would think tack welding the outdrives would cause undue wear to the Dog bone end????? They are designed to normally slide inside the output cup under loads. Just how do you remove the dog bones, once the Cup is tack welded??
Better to use a rubber O-ring, Nitro fuel tubing, or a small spring or similar spacer at the Hub side. Been there. It works.

 

[NewKratonuser0311]

+1

At the rear when using the stock dog bones, You need to keep the EXB Rubber spacers inside the inboard output cups. Maybe you overlooked that. Or lost them altogether when you disassembled it?
I suspect using that HR stuff is not all that. Fit and all. I avoid HR when I can for this reason. Usually just paying more to go backwards.
When it shoud be plug and play out the package..... in a perfect RC world.
Honestly there is nothing wrong with replacing the Dog bones with the Arrma stockers at all. Or even running the stocker front CVDs at the rear is a common thing to do... Best IMHO. JennysRC has them.
Upgrade parts are not always better than OE. That is only an assumption that they are. And once an RC part breaks, usually from Driver error most of the time, many are quick to go with $upgrade brands$.
M2C would be a first pick Upgrade brand if anything. And worth the extra coin, for the precision of their parts alone.

I do have stock dog bones just upgraded the rear and front hubs to HR I also have some cvd shafts from a kraton. I don’t get all crazy w upgrades I know they still break this one is not a basher I was setting it up for on road and maybe a track every me and then. I don’t remember seeing anything rubber other than the sealed bearings one on the hex side w the wheel and the other on the inside of the wheel on the hubs. What are you talking about so I can look into it. I get arrma parts only for their RC’s and m2c is a very good quality upgrade anytime. Can you elaborate on rubber spacers. I have

+1
I agree. That's why many of my rear dog bones are painted a bright yellow. I always find them now. And I know they go flying once they let go, sometimes 30 feet away. I have found old lost Dog bones by accident at the same bash location months later, sitting in the grass all rusted. Despite trying to locate it for an hour. They are not cheap. I know.

However, running the Front CVD's at the rear will serve 2 purposes, you wont lose them and the rear driveline operates way better. Smoother.
Most decent 1/8 Track kits always run CVD's at the rear also . For this reason. Cheaper dog bones are found with the cheaper RTR's.
I would think tack welding the outdrives would cause undue wear to the Dog bone end????? They are designed to normally slide inside the output cup under loads. Just how do you remove the dog bones, once the Cup is tack welded??
Better to use a rubber O-ring, Nitro fuel tubing, or a small spring or similar spacer at the Hub side. Been there. It works.

Rubber o-ring what size would that be? So basically just fill in the space so it doesn’t move as much. Would that throw off the weight distribution of the wheels?

 

[SrC]

No effect on the wheels. It works. Trial and error what fits inside the stub axle. Hobby nitro engine Fuel line is what I used. I keep scraps of it here. Good to have in the tool box. For many other RC related fixes. Like shock limiters etc. Start with like 3 mm and trial fit it. An O-ring might work also. Need a batch of diff sizes to try out. They could possibly jamb up in there .....IDK.
Note:
If you make the Rear arm Hubs (uprights) shimmed Rearward (Longest wheelbase setting) , the dog bones tend to stay in the output cups better. You might be able to steal 1mm right there. Try it.
I have.

 

[SrC]

All V5 RTR's and EXB models use these below. And only at the Rear Output Cups.
Easy to lose and fall out if not careful and aware they are even there.
I bought extras to update my older 6s models. But great to use anywhere needed. They can be trimmed to suit as well. An option. I never had luck with upgrade Drive shafts. So I just replace with the stockers as needed. Some upgrade ones are shorter or longer. Some claim to be and are not. A mixed bag.
For On road, Pefect Pass and Scortched make the best IMHO. But will pay hard for them. And only really needed for hardcore speed running IMHO.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/diff-outdrive-insert/ARA311028.html

 

[NewKratonuser0311]

All V5 RTR's and EXB models use these below. And only at the Rear Output Cups.
Easy to lose and fall out if not careful and aware they are even there.
I bought extras to update my older 6s models. But great to use anywhere needed. They can be trimmed to suit as well. An option. I never had luck with upgrade Drive shafts. So I just replace with the stockers as needed. Some upgrade ones are shorter or longer. Some claim to be and are not. A mixed bag.
For On road, Pefect Pass and Scortched make the best IMHO. But will pay hard for them. And only really needed for hardcore speed running IMHO.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/diff-outdrive-insert/ARA311028.html

Yeah those were not in any of my rtr but idk that was a thing sold for that purpose thanks a lot dude I appreciate that always learning something new

 

[SrC]

Those inserts, although Labeled as an EXB part actually became standard out the box with most every single 6s rig now, going forward. Not just with the EXB models.

 

[NewKratonuser0311]

All V5 RTR's and EXB models use these below. And only at the Rear Output Cups.
Easy to lose and fall out if not careful and aware they are even there.
I bought extras to update my older 6s models. But great to use anywhere needed. They can be trimmed to suit as well. An option. I never had luck with upgrade Drive shafts. So I just replace with the stockers as needed. Some upgrade ones are shorter or longer. Some claim to be and are not. A mixed bag.
For On road, Pefect Pass and Scortched make the best IMHO. But will pay hard for them. And only really needed for hardcore speed running IMHO.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/diff-outdrive-insert/ARA311028.html

Yes I use stock drive shafts I’m not going all crazy w it I buy new and replace as needed or maybe if I run it hard I’ll just replace drive shafts all around
Here is the blown up diagram of my rear end, diff cups and rear wheel. Doesn’t show anything on here and this is on arrma website

 

[SrC]

According to the Arrma website now, the only EXB available is the 1/5 8s OC roller.
But the 6s EXB's all came with the Rear Outdrive inserts. In the EXB manual should show the blow up of the inserts. The inserts just carried over and are installed on the RTR variants now. Even though the RTR blow up does not show it. This is common for Arrma to ommit or add parts mid production, never updating the manual, Until the next revision model. Even my TLRT Typhon came with the Rear EXB output cup Inserts out the box.
Yeah the stocker parts are just fine most of the time. How I fly.
But I do recommend all M2C upgrade Input cups and Outdrives when the need arises. And the retail prices are similar for both brands anyway. The M2C's are better hardened, machined way better ( truer) and last longer.