Talion Talion 6S build dilemma.. Rear Center Dogbone slop?

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JLspeeddragon

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Location
Benton, Ar
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Talion EXB
I'm in process of building my Talion from the Chassis up following the latest and last Arrma Talion exploded view released on their website..
However after installing the new F/R center dogbones, I have noticed 4mm of slop in the rear one.. Front has at most 1-2mm of play which feels right..
Refer to pictures.. I marked it with pencil on the drivecup for better visual and measuring..
Is this amount of play normal?
Should I be concerned about this?
How and or should I reduce this much slop??
Is there an alternative brand center dogbone that I could replace it with thats 119-120mm to make it fit much tighter like the front?

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One of my Notorious is like that. I bought it second hand so I don't know if the dogbones are the right ones but it hasn't been a problem.

I put small O-rings in the bottom of the cups to help keep it centered as others have suggested but I don't know that it is doing much other than keeping them from feeling sloppy. I think the right hit might pop one out just the same as if they were not there.
 
As one who HAS addressed this, I've played with different size O-rings placed into Both or just one drive cup finding where the end/end slop is near zero.
A tad bit of compression won't hurt a thing IMO.
Polyurethane O-rings work best in 70 duro

AND WILL ADD ..... when the shafts can't rattle about in the cups, there is LESS wear and LESS vibration/noise.
* I do the same on REAR shafts, tho towards the looser fit to allow for unimpeded a-arm motion.
 
One of my Notorious is like that. I bought it second hand so I don't know if the dogbones are the right ones but it hasn't been a problem.

I put small O-rings in the bottom of the cups to help keep it centered as others have suggested but I don't know that it is doing much other than keeping them from feeling sloppy. I think the right hit might pop one out just the same as if they were not there.
which I agree with you on the 2nd part of your reply.. That's the part that concerns me.. just wondering if anyone has figured out a fix or off brand replacement that fits it better.

Polyurethane O-rings work best in 70 duro
? could you provide me with links of what you used or more detailed information so that I have something I can google for purchase? when you get time of course.. what is 70 duro?

Ok I had to force myself to use my own brain LOL!.. Duro = durometer.. Rubber hardness.. and ID of the drive cup is 8mm.. Time to go shopping.. Thank you for the help Bigkid and Saladshooter
 
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which I agree with you on the 2nd part of your reply.. That's the part that concerns me.. just wondering if anyone has figured out a fix or off brand replacement that fits it better.


? could you provide me with links of what you used or more detailed information so that I have something I can google for purchase? when you get time of course.. what is 70 duro?
Being sizes will vary car model to model ... IMO the best way to start off addressing this is purchase an inexpensive O-ring kit from say harbor freight.
Find what fits, play with fit and if or not liking the hack or not ... Then go after the size o-rings needed in a preferred material.
 
ok went with the 70A Duro Fluorine ones, according to the reading / digging.. Durable fluorine rubber with resistance to heat, oil, aging, abrasion, ozone, fuel and chemical; Strong sealing and good airtightness.. Only going to cost me $5 for 10.. and will be here monday'ish...

nitrile rubber
Just posted what I went with.. Should I cancel and go with the nitril instead?
 
ok went with the 70A Duro Fluorine ones, according to the reading / digging.. Durable fluorine rubber with resistance to heat, oil, aging, abrasion, ozone, fuel and chemical; Strong sealing and good airtightness.. Only going to cost me $5 for 10.. and will be here monday'ish...


Just posted what I went with.. Should I cancel and go with the nitril instead?
For trial purposes your fine.
tho said .. how do you know that size is what you need ?
 
For trial purposes your fine.
only costing me $5 free ship, 2 day delivery so if it's not a winner then I'll try the Nitril.. Thank you for the help with this problem.. Now I just need to finish figuring out the last post I did after this one about the split Tower 2 tower brace... Still thinking on it.. I'm doing a crazy mod to my Talion atm.. That problem may / may not cost me $50 if I can figure it out..
 
After 2 separate options, I have found what works really great for the slop..
M3 ID x 8 OD x 2mm Thick Flat rubber washer.
The slop has been reduced to 1mm (which is fine for any chassis flex)
I also installed 1 in each of the rear driveshafts (Diff cup side) since they didn't have that little rubber insert.
BTW I just got the Max8 in the mail today! :).. I will be installing it soon to show off the new bling in the Talion. Now I can officially put it the rest of the way together and get it's heartbeart ticking..
 
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