Kraton Rear screws not getting tight

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cobalt172

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
I had to replace the rear center dog bone.

When I am screwing the back end of the kraton onto the chassis, the screws just continue to spin and not get tight. What gives,city madensure theres no debris in the way
 
I had to replace the rear center dog bone.

When I am screwing the back end of the kraton onto the chassis, the screws just continue to spin and not get tight. What gives,city madensure theres no debris in the way
Might have a striped diff case ?
 
You have stripped the threads in the plastic a bit. Just cut a few thin slices of plastic (anything) milk bottle carton or even wood splinters would do.. around 1mm wide or 0.5mm square for splinters around 30mm or so in length and stick 1 or 2 in each hole either side with a drop of CA. Once it drys cut the protruding plastic or splinter strips away from the top of the hole (at the bottom of the countersunk part) and screw in as normal. It will be fine.. used to have to do this with wood and chipboard etc.. works a treat.
 
Another try is plumbers teflon tape around the screws. It's worked for me but I've only used it on less stressed, lighter load parts. I've used longer screws in places too but be careful going into the diff case. I'd only try the next size up as mentioned. too far and you could catch gearing.
 
Impossible, first time I've undone those screws
Just say’n if the screws keep turning, regardless of the part it’s probably stripped. Even if it’s the first time... if you over tighten them, they will strip ?
Sorry... but it looks like many have given some good remedies. Good luck ?
 
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What's the best thing to do, I don't understand the zip tie thing???
You have stripped the threads in the plastic a bit. Just cut a few thin slices of plastic (anything) milk bottle carton or even wood splinters would do.. around 1mm wide or 0.5mm square for splinters around 30mm or so in length and stick 1 or 2 in each hole either side with a drop of CA. Once it drys cut the protruding plastic or splinter strips away from the top of the hole (at the bottom of the countersunk part) and screw in as normal. It will be fine.. used to have to do this with wood and chipboard etc.. works a treat.

What is CA??
 
You have stripped the threads in the plastic a bit. Just cut a few thin slices of plastic (anything) milk bottle carton or even wood splinters would do.. around 1mm wide or 0.5mm square for splinters around 30mm or so in length and stick 1 or 2 in each hole either side with a drop of CA. Once it drys cut the protruding plastic or splinter strips away from the top of the hole (at the bottom of the countersunk part) and screw in as normal. It will be fine.. used to have to do this with wood and chipboard etc.. works a treat.
This ⬆️ But with zip ties maybe...
 
Ok so put 2 1mm wide pieces of milk carton into the hole then put super glue in then screw the screw into that?
I have zip ties too

But isn't that going to block the hole for the screw to go into?

i was just replying to the CA question.... lol
 
Ok so put 2 1mm wide pieces of milk carton into the hole then put super glue in then screw the screw into that?
I have zip ties too

But isn't that going to block the hole for the screw to go into?


You are using some thin plastic strips from one of these yeah?

plastic_trans.png


Just add a tiny amount of CA to bond them roughly in the hole then once dried trim off the excess that is sticking out the hole at the bottom of the chassis counter sink.... (or level directly across the top of the screw holes of the rear diff if done without the chassis being in situ).
Your simple aim here is make the screw holes a little narrower so that the screws have something to bite into and get snug.. If 2 pieces is too much then just remove one..

I promise that it will work.
 
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You are using some thin plastic strips from one of these yeah?

View attachment 55928

Just add a tiny amount of CA to bond them roughly in the hole then once dried trim off the excess that is sticking out the hole at the bottom of the chassis counter sink.... (or level directly across the top of the screw holes of the rear diff if done without the chassis being in situ).
Your simple aim here is make the screw holes a little narrower so that the screws have something to bite into and get snug.. If 2 pieces is too much then just remove one..

I promise that it will work.

I'm afraid to put super glue into the diff case holes cuz then the screws will be blocked, I'm not understanding this.
How will that make the screw "grab" the diff case?? Wouldnt thebscrew just be bonded to the plastic zip tie I put in?
 
Impossible, first time I've undone those screws
My brand new Senton did the same thing. That was about 2 weeks old when the shocks started to leak. It's annoying, and, in my opinion, a weak point in my car (the plastics that have stripped is a design flaw in think). It's doubly annoying that the only reason I had to do it was because the shocks were leaking. Hey ho, the suggestions above make sense, regardless if we think we should even be having to do it.
 
I'm afraid to put super glue into the diff case holes cuz then the screws will be blocked, I'm not understanding this.
How will that make the screw "grab" the diff case?? Wouldnt thebscrew just be bonded to the plastic zip tie I put in?
The glue isn’t essential. Just push a small section of a ziptie in the hole and run a screw in. Just don’t put too thick of a piece in there. Make sure it’s only a mm thick and just long enough to not stick out of the bottom of the hole. If one isn’t enough, make a slightly thicker one or add more than one.
 
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