Granite Resoldering battery leads

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scv484

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. 4x4-Mega
Any body ever open a NiMH battery pack to resolder the leads that go from the battery to the ESC? Anything I should know?
 
I've made battery packs for receivers and have taken apart 2S lipo's to make 3S lipos...

Use an iron with at least 60W capability. Use flux. Rough up the battery surface with a bit of clean sandpaper, flux, then tin it. Strip/flux/heat/re-tin the wire. Hold the wire on the tinned battery end and press the iron on the tinned wire. You will need to hold it somehow as when the solder melts on both, the wire won't stay where you want it. I use those little helping hands thingies and have the wire angled/pressing against where I want it to end up in the angle I want it to end up, then heat the tinned wire until the solder on whatever I'm soldering too melts.

I have a variable iron that does 25-60W, but I also got a 100W iron that's 100W all the time... feels like I'm wielding a baseball bat... with molten lava on the end. The 60W wouldn't touch the solder used on the SMC lipo's I had and the 100W is too much heat if I'm not careful. I should buy one of those rheostat things so it's adjustable.

The 60W iron worked ok on XT90 with AWG10-12 wire and traxxas plugs with the same. But didn't have enough heat retention to take the lipo's apart. Guessing they use a higher temp solder on those, and they use a lot of it.
 
In my experience, you have to get the battery HOT really quickly so you can get the wire soldered RIGHT NOW!!
Don't dawdle while soldering directly to battery bottoms and tops. if you don't get it done very fast you risk damaging the battery.

This takes a very hot soldering tool.

Look on YouTube and see if there are some videos that show soldering battery wires and tabs.
 
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