Rocker post and air control questions

Frank

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Drove my non-diff brain Nero for the first time today and did some jumps and just general bashing. Love the way it drove and handled on the ground. Once I get the bugs worked out and learn all the ins and outs, I think it will be my go to bash Truck. I did end up breaking 2 rocker posts and the steering rod screw just fell out. Luckily I was able to find the steering arm screw and the nut was still where it was supposed to be. The rocker posts need to be replaced however because they snapped. 2 questions:

1. Air control. When in the air, hitting the brakes does what it should, lowers the front. But applying throttle while in the air does nothing. Is this because of the center diff not applying enough power to the rear? Couldn't even do a wheelie. What else could be the culprit? Was running 2s batteries but before anyone blames the 2s, I can do standing back flips with my savage flux with the same batteries with great air control too. Thinking it must have something to do with the center diff on the nero. If so, would sealing the diff and adding some 500k fluid help you think?

2. Rocker post. Is there a fix for this? Breaking two in a single easy going bash is concerning to me. I did a search and one guy went to home Depot and bought some stainless screws. Another guy converted his posts to e-revo. Is there a better solution or is one of those 2 solutions better than the other? I have a home depot 5 minutes away so may try that one unless there is a better solution.

For reference, today's run was in stock form running stock pinion and 2s SMC 9000 batteries.

Thanks in advance for your help :)
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Ole Fart51

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You should have good in air control. If not, just plug and fill center diff with 500 like you said. 4s is fun but 6s is awesome. Broken parts, get used to it, Arrma doesn't offer any upgrade parts so you will have to rely on this forum for upgrade advice.
 

Frank

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@Ole Fart51 thanks for the response. I will try fluid in center diff. I have these grub screws coming for it http://m.ebay.com/itm/272503622544 and have some 500k laying around.

Ended up doing all 4 corners with the stainless steel socket cap screws from Home Depot. They were the #10-24x1-1/2 ones. Worked like a charm. Needed to do nothing aside from removing the rocker posts and screwing in the new screws and only cost about $3. Shouldn't break again. Will see what the next weakest link is now as I'm sure they were made weak for a reason.
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What position are you guys running your shocks? I moved mine into the 3rd hole from the outside all around. Any other tricks I should do or know about? Thanks again.
 
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72Z15SS

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I moved my shocks to the inner most holes, re-routed the motor wires under the shock rather than between them. The rockers; haven't had a problem "yet" but if and when I do, I'll do what you did with yours. I don't fly mine as high as my others 'cause it IS a heavy beast! I am in the process of reinforcing the body. Very flimsy?
 

Toolzero

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I replaced all 4 rocker posts with stainless cap screws as well. Great upgrade. No problems since.

I run all of my shocks at the innermost hole. You need to reroute the motor cables. I moved them to the side and zip tied them in place.
 

Frank

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I replaced all 4 rocker posts with stainless cap screws as well. Great upgrade. No problems since.

I run all of my shocks at the innermost hole. You need to reroute the motor cables. I moved them to the side and zip tied them in place.
Thanks @Toolzero. I know I read somewhere that there is an advantage to doing that with the shocks but couldn't remember what hole was recommended or the advantage of it though. What's the advantage of doing this?..More ground clearance?
 

Fiery

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Thanks @Toolzero. I know I read somewhere that there is an advantage to doing that with the shocks but couldn't remember what hole was recommended or the advantage of it though. What's the advantage of doing this?..More ground clearance?
Welcome to the forum! I tried the stainless steel screw method and they don't break. But... the bend like crazy. I'll try to post a picture on the weekend but when the bend that much, the shock compress but don't rebound back. You literally have to pull the tire sometimes. This is with some jumps of course but if you bend them back it bends even easier. I recently switched to erevo posts and they are great. If you don't want to buy a tap then I would buy the GKA rocker posts. The erevo rockers have so far been flawless but that way is easier.
 

72Z15SS

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Thanks @Toolzero. I know I read somewhere that there is an advantage to doing that with the shocks but couldn't remember what hole was recommended or the advantage of it though. What's the advantage of doing this?..More ground clearance?
Moves the shock spring perch away from the rocker slightly. Gives you a bit more room. I've also seen someone here clearance the rocker a bit right where the two meet. I haven't done this myself.
 

Frank

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Welcome to the forum! I tried the stainless steel screw method and they don't break. But... the bend like crazy. I'll try to post a picture on the weekend but when the bend that much, the shock compress but don't rebound back. You literally have to pull the tire sometimes. This is with some jumps of course but if you bend them back it bends even easier. I recently switched to erevo posts and they are great. If you don't want to buy a tap then I would buy the GKA rocker posts. The erevo rockers have so far been flawless but that way is easier.

Thanks for that info. I will look into the gka rocker posts. If my stainless bolts bend, I may just try and find a hardened bolt of the same size to put in there too. At least now I have options. Thanks again.
 

RCgoogler

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Frank

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Happy to report that I took it out for it's second bash today, and it was problem free. And I beat the snot out of this thing. No big jumps but full throttle over rough terrain and some smaller jumps. She cartwheeled a few times, one of them huge. At the end of the session I have 2 small tears in the back of my already reinforced body and a broken front bumper. I can live with that. As long as it's cosmetic and can keep on trucking..all is good. The stainless screws that I replaced my rocker posts with did bend like @Fiery warned me of, but still usable for now. But the moral of the story is I bashed it hard and it's ready for more tomorrow..can't wait!
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RCgoogler

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true on SS post ..i always thought stainless was harder...I guess different grades maybe....the stuff is hard to cut I can attest
 

72Z15SS

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Happy to report that I took it out for it's second bash today, and it was problem free. And I beat the snot out of this thing. No big jumps but full throttle over rough terrain and some smaller jumps. She cartwheeled a few times, one of them huge. At the end of the session I have 2 small tears in the back of my already reinforced body and a broken front bumper. I can live with that. As long as it's cosmetic and can keep on trucking..all is good. The stainless screws that I replaced my rocker posts with did bend like @Fiery warned me of, but still usable for now. But the moral of the story is I bashed it hard and it's ready for more tomorrow..can't wait!
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Good to hear. I'm hoping to get out this weekend since we're going to have Spring Like weather temps. WooHoo.
 

ondaedg

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Just a thought on using the screws. If they do break, you may not be able to back them out unlike the rocker posts.which 9 times out of 10 can be socketed out.
 

Frank

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Just a thought on using the screws. If they do break, you may not be able to back them out unlike the rocker posts.which 9 times out of 10 can be socketed out.
I have been thinking about this lately as well. Luckily they haven't broken yet..fingers crossed.
 

Erex

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Ive upgraded to the e revo rocker post due to having the arrma ones snap below the hex nut. Was able to tap and remove 2, the 3rd ended up destroying the bulkhead. The traxxas post will snap above the hex. With extra posts it's a 5 min fix and you don't have to worry about binding your bearings without a spacer
 

Frank

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Ive upgraded to the e revo rocker post due to having the arrma ones snap below the hex nut. Was able to tap and remove 2, the 3rd ended up destroying the bulkhead. The traxxas post will snap above the hex. With extra posts it's a 5 min fix and you don't have to worry about binding your bearings without a spacer
Do those require drilling and tapping the hole larger?
 

Erex

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Do those require drilling and tapping the hole larger?
Some people say to or do so. I didn't being a soft plastic it's made to be forgiving. I just made sure the bolts where in alignment and with alot of force just screwed them in. It snaps from a bad crash and I retrieve the bearings pull out the old one and in goes the new one

the bottom bearing will be attached to the Post and the top bearing will be attached to the rocker arm and just a pair of vice grips in your elements to pull the screw out of the broken post and just reassemble pretty simple just make sure you have your T wrench
 
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