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- Arrma RC's
- BigRock 4x4
- Kraton EXB
Rear hubs were a breeze to install, pour a gin and tonic (it is a British part you know), remove camber link, drop the hub, remove the driveshaft, remove the bottom shoulder bolt and be careful to not lose the plastic shims, you'll need these later. Drive the pin out of the axle stub, remove stub and reinstall stub into your new shiny 7075 hub. Install shouldered bolt with one 1mm plastic shim in the front and one in rear to allow full articulation, remove rubber plug from rear axle cup and replace with the supplied O ring, spray both ends of the spiffy new unobtanium axle with 3M 08897 dry lube and install diff side first. Roll your hub up while aligning the axle and install the new shorter bolt with the camber link on the front side of the hub, done!
A few notes:
1. The factory hub had an easy 1 to 1.5mm lateral slop. Once installing the new hub there is essentially zero lateral play and no shimming is required.
2. The Arrma nylock nut for the camber link bolt was wasted and had no resistance. Odd because I've never removed it but I've got plenty in my RC kit so easy fix.
3. The bottom shouldered bolt had one 2mm shim in the rear and two 1mm shims in the front. The Scorched hub bottom bracket is 24mm vs the stock Arrma hub is 22mm so one 1mm shim in the front and back lines it up perfectly for full articulation without hitting the stock lower control arm.
4. The factory rear diff cup stock rubber buffer didn't look all that bad, but I replaced it with the given O ring
5. The rear camber attachment on the Scorched hub is a single shear plane design vs the factory dual shear design. I can see that causing accelerated wear on the link end but the factory link ends pretty much suck anyway and they are wear items meant to replaced at regular intervals.
6. The stock axles have their pins clocked 90 degrees apart from each other and the Scorched are clocked straight. What difference that makes is beyond me other than an infinitesimal balance issue.
7. Just thought, and you all probably know, to remove a shock bolt and test for freedom of movement before you call it all good.
8. Never had an issue with the stock rear axles yet, but the Scorched ones were on sale and I was going to be in there anyway so.... Bling!
In conclusion, these are some seriously badass parts that removed quite a bit of slop. I'll update if I find anything good or bad over time. Also, the wife gets pretty uptight when I use her digital food scale to measure RC parts. In the future I'll get my own scale and add weights to my reviews.
A few notes:
1. The factory hub had an easy 1 to 1.5mm lateral slop. Once installing the new hub there is essentially zero lateral play and no shimming is required.
2. The Arrma nylock nut for the camber link bolt was wasted and had no resistance. Odd because I've never removed it but I've got plenty in my RC kit so easy fix.
3. The bottom shouldered bolt had one 2mm shim in the rear and two 1mm shims in the front. The Scorched hub bottom bracket is 24mm vs the stock Arrma hub is 22mm so one 1mm shim in the front and back lines it up perfectly for full articulation without hitting the stock lower control arm.
4. The factory rear diff cup stock rubber buffer didn't look all that bad, but I replaced it with the given O ring
5. The rear camber attachment on the Scorched hub is a single shear plane design vs the factory dual shear design. I can see that causing accelerated wear on the link end but the factory link ends pretty much suck anyway and they are wear items meant to replaced at regular intervals.
6. The stock axles have their pins clocked 90 degrees apart from each other and the Scorched are clocked straight. What difference that makes is beyond me other than an infinitesimal balance issue.
7. Just thought, and you all probably know, to remove a shock bolt and test for freedom of movement before you call it all good.
8. Never had an issue with the stock rear axles yet, but the Scorched ones were on sale and I was going to be in there anyway so.... Bling!
In conclusion, these are some seriously badass parts that removed quite a bit of slop. I'll update if I find anything good or bad over time. Also, the wife gets pretty uptight when I use her digital food scale to measure RC parts. In the future I'll get my own scale and add weights to my reviews.
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