Kraton Second bearings input gear of diff always loose decided to superglue it in

[Surchaufeur]

So im getting really pissed off since i superglued the second bearings on the sungear of the rear diff of my kraton 4s after 6-8 packs diffs still looks completly new no plastic residu to be found. And the bearing that was superglued i menaged to remove it and it left the superglue on the plastic so putting the bearing back in place is a lot more tight than before who was always floping arround. I decided to open my front dif and sure enough for some reason my second bearing too was loose maybe because i ran the truck for a few days without the center bearing holder because mine broke off. My sungear got a bit cheved up at that time but judged it was fine and cleaned and regreased everything. But today massive suprise more plastic residu from the sungear but the gear still looks "acceptable"-_-. So i did the same thing of what i did in the rear

I quess i will need a new sun gear just to be safe and but s bit of superglue on the second besring to hold it in place on the sungear. My theory is that the vibration made by the car is making the sungear to shake at a high frequancy becsuse the second besring is not suporting the sungear correctly
Also have put a new slipper rear hub because because there was too much play inside
Hope this stupid annoyance will be over

 

[jondilly1974]

New yokes in your plan?

 

[Surchaufeur]

New yokes in your plan?

Idk if its really the yokes the issue since i did the supergluemod there is 0 slop on the sungear from the outside of the car
While before it was moving all over the place
Also went back to 10k in the front maybe 15k ish because i did not wsned to waste more time removing all of the flid remaining in the bottom with paper and remove the gears and regrease the orings
When i say i superglued the bearing in i mean in the inputgear body and not on the yokes im not that crazy lol
I feel like im speaking chinesse at you guys atm lol

 

[LittleFlowRider]

I’m not quite sure why your super gluing in the bearing but I have mine loose and it doesn’t affect my diff at all

 

[Surchaufeur]

I’m not quite sure why your super gluing in the bearing but I have mine loose and it doesn’t affect my diff at all

Just trying to find the cause why my sungear is wearing out too fast in the front the rear is fixed so yey:3. The front i know will survive no mstter what even if its almost completly chewed up i was running wihh a chipped tooth on my crown gear and my sun gear wit a few mm thick of teeths and ran like that for a month lol

 

[LittleFlowRider]

Just trying to figure to eliminate my theries of whats causing my sun gear to just die over time. I just don't want to deal with this issue im the only one to have while others are having fun lunching their truck in the air

It might just be one of those things that you have to replace over time. Just like grease

 

[Surchaufeur]

Was running an inappropriate grease so i killed 2 rear diffs in 2weeks

It might just be one of those things that you have to replace over time. Just like grease

I domt think it is i know a few members here who bash similar rigs who use these difs and they are still the original ones they are running

 

[razorrc]

I mean, on 4S those things are going to wear pretty fast. They're just plastic. This is why I recommend shimming it on the other side when new since it's already so tight, and then move the shim back after it wears and becomes a bit loose.

How many packs a day/week do you run?

 

[Surchaufeur]

I mean, on 4S those things are going to wear pretty fast. They're just plastic. This is why I recommend shimming it on the other side when new since it's already so tight, and then move the shim back after it wears and becomes a bit loose.

How many packs a day/week do you run?

Thats what i did for the rear this time but the front the diff is not binding or anything in the front with th pe shim in the stock position

 

[razorrc]

Thats what i did for the rear this time but the front the diff is not binding or anything in the front with th pe shim in the stock position

How many packs a day/week do you run?

 

[Surchaufeur]

How many packs a day/week do you run?

Ussualy 2 packs per day but everything is wet outwide and my esc is not rly waterproof anymore last time i took it out in the snow esc started to malfunction

 

[colbynobo]

I went through 2 differential gears and 2 input gears in a short amount of time after I purchased my Outcast 4S. I wanted to hit the reset button so on the 3rd one I opted to replace the yoke, both gears and all of the bearings. So far it seems to be faring better. However, this also may be that I'm becoming more familiar with driving the vehicle and for the time being I've stopped attempting backflips. As I'm not yet ready to commit to big air backflips I've been only trying on the smaller jumps (between 4 and 5 feet of air). I think this has actually made things worse since it means I'm still heavy on the throttle just to get it to rotate before I hit the ground. I'm committing the big no-no by landing on near full throttle. This is brutal on the gears.

 

[jondilly1974]

I went through 2 differential gears and 2 input gears in a short amount of time after I purchased my Outcast 4S. I wanted to hit the reset button so on the 3rd one I opted to replace the yoke, both gears and all of the bearings. So far it seems to be faring better. However, this also may be that I'm becoming more familiar with driving the vehicle and for the time being I've stopped attempting backflips. As I'm not yet ready to commit to big air backflips I've been only trying on the smaller jumps (between 4 and 5 feet of air). I think this has actually made things worse since it means I'm still heavy on the throttle just to get it to rotate before I hit the ground. I'm committing the big no-no by landing on near full throttle. This is brutal on the gears.

Yeah landing on throttle will always tear up gears. That’s one cardinal sin I’ve always avoided. I’ve broken every other rule but not that one. ??✌?

 

[drjim]

Yeah landing on throttle will always tear up gears. That’s one cardinal sin I’ve always avoided. I’ve broken every other rule but not that one. ??✌?

So as soon as you get airborne you chop the throttle?

All this jumping and flipping and ramp stuff is new to me. I'd probably cut the throttle by reflex as soon as it got in the air, but I don't drive like that!

 

[razorrc]

If your slipper is set correctly, you can land on throttle. Not full throttle, but some on throttle should be fine and actually provides some benefit.

 

[jondilly1974]

So as soon as you get airborne you chop the throttle?

All this jumping and flipping and ramp stuff is new to me. I'd probably cut the throttle by reflex as soon as it got in the air, but I don't drive like that!

What I meant was leaving full throttle engaged as you land. The wheels can be spinning when you land, just coasting tho. I try not to be applying any throttle or brake as it lands. It has served me well so far with these plastic diffs. I’ve never had a single diff issue so far. I’ve broken just about every other part tho. That’s why wen people talk about metal diff gears for the 3S/4S rigs I don’t see the need. I think if your yokes and bearings are in good shape and don’t land under hard throttle you should be just fine.

If your slipper is set correctly, you can land on throttle. Not full throttle, but some on throttle should be fine and actually provides some benefit.

Not disagreeing with this premise, but curious as to what does some throttle on landing do that is beneficial? I would think that coasting would be best, but I’m open to differing opinions here.

 

[razorrc]

Easiest on the drivetrain would be to match wheel/motor speed to ground speed. Ideally you want the wheels moving at the same speed as the truck is going (or would be going if it were on the ground).

Not disagreeing with this premise, but curious as to what does some throttle on landing do that is beneficial? I would think that coasting would be best, but I’m open to differing opinions here.

When a driveshaft is at rest (not spinning), it basically doesn't do anything. But when it is spinning, it is resistant to change, meaning it is harder to bend (not bend as in break, but bend as in change driveshaft angle). I'm not sure if it attempts to straighten itself or if it attempts to maintain its current angle -- I think it may depend on whether you are using dogbones, universals, or CVA's. They all act a little differently. I'd have to experiment/think about it more to know for sure.

But in any case, when you're on throttle, you are spinning the driveshafts. Your shocks will resist compression, and the driveshafts will ALSO resist bending which will make your suspension arms feel like they are more resistant to compressing. The net effect will be like running stiffer suspension, but only when on power and not when coasting. The faster you are going (more on throttle), the stiffer it will feel.

Neat, eh?

 

[Surchaufeur]

Easiest on the drivetrain would be to match wheel/motor speed to ground speed. Ideally you want the wheels moving at the same speed as the truck is going (or would be going if it were on the ground).



When a driveshaft is at rest (not spinning), it basically doesn't do anything. But when it is spinning, it is resistant to change, meaning it is harder to bend (not bend as in break, but bend as in change driveshaft angle). I'm not sure if it attempts to straighten itself or if it attempts to maintain its current angle -- I think it may depend on whether you are using dogbones, universals, or CVA's. They all act a little differently. I'd have to experiment/think about it more to know for sure.

But in any case, when you're on throttle, you are spinning the driveshafts. Your shocks will resist compression, and the driveshafts will ALSO resist bending which will make your suspension arms feel like they are more resistant to compressing. The net effect will be like running stiffer suspension, but only when on power and not when coasting. The faster you are going (more on throttle), the stiffer it will feel.

Neat, eh?

I understood bananas

So as soon as you get airborne you chop the throttle?

All this jumping and flipping and ramp stuff is new to me. I'd probably cut the throttle by reflex as soon as it got in the air, but I don't drive like that!

when your about to leave the jump let go of the throttle and only use the throttle and brakes to correct the car in the air or use the throtle to do a backflip and brakes to stop the rotation and so on
Leaving the jump with the throttle on is a bit risky if becaus eyou wont have the power of doing a backflip or anything because you are already using the throttle if so the rotation will be dramaticly less than if you let go of the throttle after you left the jump

 

[razorrc]

I understood bananas

Translation: Just Send It!!!

 

[Yonic]

But in any case, when you're on throttle, you are spinning the driveshafts. Your shocks will resist compression, and the driveshafts will ALSO resist bending which will make your suspension arms feel like they are more resistant to compressing. The net effect will be like running stiffer suspension, but only when on power and not when coasting. The faster you are going (more on throttle), the stiffer it will feel.

I think this is true for CVD's, where they tend to want to straighten when spinning, and not applicable to dog bones or the universals that the 4s line have. Might be wrong.