Senton 3S Broken Slipper Hub & Slipper Maintenance Set Issue

[Hainesy]

I've got an issue with the slipper clutch on my Senton 3S, after some input...

Took the car out for a bash on sandy off-road surface last weekend. Lost movement towards the end of a pack and after getting it back home and stripping it down I'd stripped the spur gear. Ordered a replacement standard pinion, and (just in case) a slipper maintenance set as well. I followed a guide on YouTube to strip it down and replace the pinion. I put the new slipper set in at the same time. The guide said to do it up tight then loosen by 1.5 turns. The video mentioned that the replacement part was an upgrade and had a little plastic 'bolt' which is new - it seems the screw itself is longer than the original. I put it all together but I can't now slide the motor / gear module back properly into place because it now doesn't engage deeply enough with the rear driveshaft - because of the plastic knob and longer screw i guess? Annoying - it's listed as an upgraded replacement part but doesn't seem compatible - has anyone else seen / tried this?

To make matters worse, when I did I took it all apart and rebuilt it to discover issue above, when I did it back up tight it made a crack sound and then lost tension on the screw. Looks like i've overtightened (?) the slipper screw and cracked the hub? Have now ordered a replacement one of these as well. Is this a common weakness - I really didn't tighten it that hard. Seems something breaks every time I take it out at the moment, tedious - i guess cold and wet weather doesn't help.

 

[Yonic]

To fit the new slipper screw (which is longer) you need the matching (shorter) diff input gear.

 

[Hainesy]

To fit the new slipper screw (which is longer) you need the matching (shorter) diff input gear.

Eugh, really - that makes sense. Is that the part highlighted in the diagram below? Not sure why they'd EOL the old part and not mention about the difference (or maybe I'm just not looking in the right place?). Thanks anyway.

 

[Yonic]

You took that photo from the old exploded view. If you’ll look at the v3 diagram, you’ll see the new part instead, which is ARA311031
You can find the diagram at the v3 page
https://www.arrma-rc.com/rc-cars/latest/senton/blx/4x4

 

[Hainesy]

Ah ok, I'm running the v2 Senton. I think i'll just go back to using the original part it - there wasn't anything specific that I could see that was wrong with it rather than just start replacing more bits just for the sake of it.

 

[Yonic]

No no, ide urge you to move to the v3 parts.

The v2 design requires thread lock and cannot be tuned without using loctite and let it rest overnight before you can drive. The plastic nut in the v3 make selecting the tension so much easier.

No no, ide urge you to move to the v3 parts.

The v2 design requires thread lock and cannot be tuned without using loctite and let it rest overnight before you can drive. The plastic nut in the v3 make selecting the tension so much easier.

Also, I don’t think you’de be able to get the v2 parts from now on

 

[Hainesy]

No no, ide urge you to move to the v3 parts.

The v2 design requires thread lock and cannot be tuned without using loctite and let it rest overnight before you can drive. The plastic nut in the v3 make selecting the tension so much easier.

Also, I don’t think you’de be able to get the v2 parts from now on

So after trying and failing to get the old part to set nicely I've gone and ordered the new ARA311031 part - thanks for the tip.