Typhon Solder Shopping List

[SpinRush_C1]

what connectors are you using that look like a spoon?

I need to up the temperature I think.

 

[RSM801]

wires go down in that hole/cup, yes.

 

[SpinRush_C1]

wires go down in that hole/cup, yes.

The black wire is smoking sometimes when I try to sandwich the wires tighter together. I’m about to use a little bit of FLUX then solder.

 

[Mongoose]

I set mine to 700 when soldering bullet connectors. Torch works better for them actually so you don’t need to worry about heat.

The black wire is smoking sometimes when I try to sandwich the wires tighter together. I’m about to use a little bit of FLUX then solder.

What do you mean by sandwich the wires together?

 

[SpinRush_C1]

The black wire on Lipo batteries is the negative wire, correct?

 

[Mongoose]

Correct

 

[SpinRush_C1]

Correct

The biggest problem is fitting these plastic caps. ARRGHH!!

 

[jondilly1974]

One issue you will have with that jig is that it acts like a big heatsink sucking away all your heat that you want to stay in that connector.

 

[Mongoose]

Did you turn the temp up?
Put it on 650 if not and give it a go. Did you tin your wire and connector before trying to connect the two?

 

[jondilly1974]

Higher the better. The issue will be wire jackets. Don’t burn them up.

 

[Overpowerrc]

If any solder gets on that connector where it’s not supposed to it will not work any I believe you are supposed to put the plastic cover on the wires first and then solder the connector on look up a video if you haven’t yet

 

[SrC]

Dammit, I can’t find the soldering temperature I should set my Hakko at. These YT videos, they just start soldering and bloody hell they don’t mention the temp. I’m sitting here ready to go.

I use 750-780F temps. I work fast, so those temps work for me. I use Lead based solder. Most of the experts who solder use these high temps.

If any solder gets on that connector where it’s not supposed to it will not work any I believe you are supposed to put the plastic cover on the wires first and then solder the connector on look up a video if you haven’t yet

Work on your skills better. Soldering is intricate work. No over soldering is good. Solder only goes where it belongs, not outside of connectors. Heatshrink is always slid onto the wire jackets before you solder and kept away from the solder work. For obvious reasons. Shrink after the soldering is cooled down. There are tons of videos. Everyone appears to do it a little different. But if you watch enough of them, you will see a common denominator of what is correct and what works for you. The fundamentals are important. The rest is a learning curve. Some EC5 bullets snap into top and some bottom. Look closely at the bullet to see its proper insertion position. Find a video specific to your connector.

 

[SpinRush_C1]

I failed miserably guys. That jig probably sucked all the heat away from the connector as I was trying to push the wire down into connector. The solder would solidify in a split second, not allowing me to push the wire in or set it in place. Anyway, I have to buy new brass bullets and EC5 connectors in order to try again. I won’t toss the batteries just yet. I need them to practice on. Next time around, I’m not going to use that jig. Instead, I will use the Hands Free clips suspended in mid-air.

 

[Ari33]

Are you using leaded solder?

 

[SpinRush_C1]

Are you using leaded solder?

Yep. The Leaded stuff. I think the brand name is Kester. I would have to get out of bed to check, but it’s so cold right now. When someone else gets up and turns the heater on, I’ll go check.

 

[Ari33]

Ok, Just some thoughts to try and help...

Kester is good stuff, I use the 60/40 and don't encounter any issues.
Flux is your friend, too much can weaken it but still better too much than too little IMO. If you use too much you can always clean the residue off with alcohol.
What type of flux are you using?

When soldering connectors plug the male and female parts in together, helps hold the brass connectors in place in the plugs and reduces the chance of you melting them out of shape quite as much.

What size of tip are you using? You shouldnt be using a fine tip for that... A larger tip will transfer more heat and faster. A 5- 6mm flat ended tip will be about right for that job..

Keep cleaning your tip and dip in the flux as you solder. The flux fumes keep the tip and solder joint from oxidising and ensures the solder flows well..

You should be aiming for a nice shiny smooth 'wet' looking joint.

Always Pre- tin (solder) the wires and the connectors seperately before soldering them in place together.

Having someone else with steady hands help you by holding the wire and connectors together with 2 sets of pliers as you solder can work.. if your mechanical 'helping hands' or jig isnt secure enough... or just not quite optimal.

Get them to keep holding it very still and steady in place for a good 10 secs after you have soldered them together to avoid getting a 'dry' joint.

A small fan blowing the fumes away from you can make soldering a much less unpleasant experience. You really don't want to inhale these fumes..

Good luck.

 

[SrC]

I failed miserably guys. That jig probably sucked all the heat away from the connector as I was trying to push the wire down into connector. The solder would solidify in a split second, not allowing me to push the wire in or set it in place. Anyway, I have to buy new brass bullets and EC5 connectors in order to try again. I won’t toss the batteries just yet. I need them to practice on. Next time around, I’m not going to use that jig. Instead, I will use the Hands Free clips suspended in mid-air.

Some guys like to use wooden jigs with holes sized to various bullets sizes to reduce heat loss for that reason. Or you just end up with cold, dull solder joints.