Felony SWB Felony building a Basher

[Jason F]

I am loving my SWB Felony, would like recommendations for bashing, going to start at the skate park by my house. What mods are absolutely necessary?
Thanks!

 

[Moirae]

I had something similar with a stretched typhon and felony diffs/tires. Really cool to see it on a swb!! I bet that thing rips hard.

 

[Boggs3010]

Skate park, then chassis skid plates.

 

[Jason F]

I have Scorched RC titanium rear skid on the way, I want the titanium Notorious chassis, but it is out of stock. I also have Scorched RC titanium stubs.

 

[parcou]

I am loving my SWB Felony, would like recommendations for bashing, going to start at the skate park by my house. What mods are absolutely necessary?
Thanks!

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Looks good..,

Why not keep the broader tires all around? I have one with Talion-Kraton build all-wide Felony tires, and it street bashes like a dream!


Here is RCDude

 

[calebgilmore]

Looks good..,

Why not keep the broader tires all around? I have one with Talion-Kraton build all-wide Felony tires, and it street bashes like a dream!


Here is RCDude

I had the same idea with mine at first and then i decided to build the bmw with the wheels inside the body. I wouldn't mind doing a rat rod style truck with all 4 large wheels on it.

 

[Dan B.]

Looks good..,

Why not keep the broader tires all around? I have one with Talion-Kraton build all-wide Felony tires, and it street bashes like a dream!


Here is RCDude

He can’t do that if he’s using felony diffs. He’d have to go GP5’s at both front and rear.

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Judging from your pictures it looks like you need to set up your alignment. You’re getting very uneven tire wear. The right front is either way toed out or has too much negative camber. As for upgrades, do it as you break stuff. I like to keep the stock a-arms, upgrade to aluminum c-hubs and bearing carriers, and better hinge pin blocks as a start.

 

[SrC]

Nice body.
Basically you have a Typhon there, with Fel shocks and towers.
The Dragster "Look" of those taller wider rear Fel Wheels is nice.... But I would toss the Fel rear diff altogether. Having matched Front and Rear diff Ratios, then run all 4 of the same diameter tires. Whatever your tire choice is. For Better performance/driveability overall.

 

[Jason F]

He can’t do that if he’s using felony diffs. He’d have to go GP5’s at both front and rear.

Judging from your pictures it looks like you need to set up your alignment. You’re getting very uneven tire wear. The right front is either way toed out or has too much negative camber. As for upgrades, do it as you break stuff. I like to keep the stock a-arms, upgrade to aluminum c-hubs and bearing carriers, and better hinge pin blocks as a start.

Alignment is good, angle of the photo, tire wear is an issue, been sliding up and down the cul-de-sac, this thing is never going straight.

Nice body.
Basically you have a Typhon there, with Fel shocks and towers.
The Dragster "Look" of those taller wider rear Fel Wheels is nice.... But I would toss the Fel rear diff altogether. Having matched Front and Rear diff Ratios, then run all 4 of the same diameter tires. Whatever your tire choice is. For Better performance/driveability overall.

Not a serious car, just for hooning, it’s never going straight, it’s fun, and twitchy on 6s.

 

[Dan B.]

Alignment is good, angle of the photo, tire wear is an issue, been sliding up and down the cul-de-sac, this thing is never going straight.

Yes they eat tires, but the wear should be much more consistent for front r/l and rear r/l. For the inner right front to be worn over double what the rest are is a clear sign of an alignment issue. Word.

 

[SrC]

^^^
+1
Check your alignment.

Tip:
Draw a straight line across each tire's tread ( Silver Sharpie Marker works) , Then drive the car Slowly in a straight line for 10 or 15 ft. Drive it back slow. Notice where the Lines are worn. Each tire should have the same worn area of the drawn lines in pairs L and R. Adjust the camber or toe as needed right there. Repeat the drawn lines as needed to get it right or close enough. Poor alignment might seem insignificant, But it does negate good driveability.
Wear should always be even L to R. A Proper wheel alignment. Wear should be equal on all wheels. The drawn Lines don't lie.

 

[Dan B.]

^^^
+1
Check your alignment.

Tip:
Draw a straight line across each tire's tread ( Silver Sharpie Marker works) , Then drive the car Slowly in a straight line for 10 or 15 ft. Drive it back slow. Notice where the Lines are worn. Each tire should have the same worn area of the drawn lines in pairs L and R. Adjust the camber or toe as needed right there. Repeat the drawn lines as needed to get it right or close enough. Poor alignment might seem insignificant, But it does negate good driveability.
Wear should always be even L to R. A Proper wheel alignment. Wear should be equal on all wheels. The drawn Lines don't lie.

We used to use essentially the same method on the track cars (1:1) but we’d use an infrared heat gun to shoot the treads left to right after a couple of warmup laps to see the disparity. His are definitely not consistent.

 

[SrC]

A Flir reading does work.
But honestly, after a crossweight tweak, then with full running weight, a setup board gets me perfect almost every time. The line method out on the pavement with On road tires is a final confirmation. Because you are verifying the alignment "Under Load".
If I tweak my steering or alignment bad enough from an Impact, I will draw some lines again, to see the actual tweak if any, and adjust it right there on the spot. Rotating the tires every few packs helps much. The rears round out at the outer edges, and the fronts usually round out at Both the Inner And Outer edges, due to the Scrub radius angle. (total Caster angle when turning) Is Normal, and depends on the Front tire's width and wheel's offset, Whether it's Zero, Postive or Neg.

We used to use essentially the same method on the track cars (1:1) but we’d use an infrared heat gun to shoot the treads left to right after a couple of warmup laps to see the disparity. His are definitely not consistent.

I find that with My 1:1 cars, Using a temp gun at the tire, the Tire temps can be inconsistent merely because of Varying Brake rotor temps.
A Flir gun reading is very accurate.

I am loving my SWB Felony, would like recommendations for bashing, going to start at the skate park by my house. What mods are absolutely necessary?
Thanks!

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I really like how you wired up your stocker ESC. Neat. How I do mine.

 

[Jason F]

I set it up with a little negative camber, this set of tires was used up doing donuts, and 4 wheel drifts. Never driven more than 20’ straight. I know how to setup vehicles, bikes/cars been racing over 45 years. This is a toy…I’m not trying to set lap times!

 

[SrC]

Alignment is good, angle of the photo, tire wear is an issue, been sliding up and down the cul-de-sac, this thing is never going straight.

Not a serious car, just for hooning, it’s never going straight, it’s fun, and twitchy on 6s.

Yeah the 6s stocker gear running is fine for Hooning around, if you know how to set up a chassis for this and have plenty of $$ for Tires.
Yet many feel the need to spend Beacup $$ with all that heavy overpowered 8s gear for just Hooning around. Never understood that. If you are into hooning then you will not be any Speed runner. At least not with a Hooned out trashed rig.
To me a dedicated speed runner is one already beyond triple digits. Sub 100mph speeds, is just playing around. IMHO. Myself included. But I try.
I don't Hoon/drift any of my 1/7 On roads. And my wallet thanks me for that.

 

[Jason F]

My speed run limitless is getting ready to be a drag car, I have no where to run/test it. All my other Arrma’s have stock 6s parts. Unless it’s for racing then I get serious!

 

[calebgilmore]

Yeah the 6s stocker gear running is fine for Hooning around, if you know how to set up a chassis for this and have plenty of $$ for Tires.
Yet many feel the need to spend Beacup $$ with all that heavy overpowered 8s gear for just Hooning around. Never understood that. If you are into hooning then you will not be any Speed runner. At least not with a Hooned out trashed rig.
To me a dedicated speed runner is one already beyond triple digits. Sub 100mph speeds, is just playing around. IMHO. Myself included. But I try.
I don't Hoon/drift any of my 1/7 On roads. And my wallet thanks me for that.

My 1/7 on roads always watch me build and finish the off road stuff, still waiting to get their electronics installed

 

[Jason F]

My speed run limitless has been patiently waiting, while I play with everything else in my garage. It would be different if I had somewhere to run it!
Poor road cars.

 

[calebgilmore]

My speed run limitless has been patiently waiting, while I play with everything else in my garage. It would be different if I had somewhere to run it!
Poor road cars.

I ended up putting a mojave on 1/5 grp's and that was the last thing i played with in a parking lot. I did finish the senton bmw but it's sitting now too. All my parking lots are trash or small if they are nice. My speed runs happen on the 110m hurdle straightaway on the high school track so i have to be shutting it down by 80 meters or so or i'm going into a shot at a fence post best speed there at least has been 74 with a stretched mojave that was running the 1/5 grp's before the standard one on senton arms.

 

[Jason F]

We have a couple of nice, and big parking lots, but all the nice roads have traffic.