Typhon Typhon 3S - Mojave 4S suspension arms and CVD's

[Neelis]

I am drunk, not sure what your excuse is, but you totally interpreted that fully ass-backward. I will assume you are a youngster that takes offense at everything and unsub this thread and block/ignore you.

I actually made a typo. Will fix my previous post.
So no excuse, just made a mistake.

 

[Neelis]

She lives! RWD drive for now, but she lives

Did a testdrive and that went well. RWD on 3s is not a succes, only rear wheel brakes is also not a succes but I am happy she is in 1 piece again. Waiting for the driveshaft to arrive.

 

[Neelis]

Broke the Mega slipper clutch last weekend on 3s, maybe not that strange.

Bought this steel 'ebay' version of the same slipper clutch, let's see how long that holds up:

I am not expecting much of it, but it will do for now.

Planning on converting to 4S slipper clutch, but I wasn't happy about all the parts you need besides that slipper clutch.
I will also need that red hex, cover and 0.8mod pinion:

Arrma 4s slipper set 0.8 mod	ARA310948
Arrma red hex for slipper clutch	AR310881
Arrma cover for slipper clutch	AR311033 / AR310882
Arrma pinion 17t 0.8mod	ARA311000

But complaining doesn't bring me anywhere, so I will have this order out soon.

 

[Neelis]

Broke a wheel hub last weekend:

And to (hopefully) improve the range:

And the PowerHD was horrible slow, way slower the stock, so changed to DS Servo and that is way faster

Last thing for today was to run om 7 cells NiMH, but the issue is that the ESC thinks it is a 3s lipo (this NiMH battery gives about 10.15 volts) and after a minute of driving I cuts off already.
I am not gonna change manually the battery setting to 2s for a lower cutt off voltage. Nice idea, didn't work.

 

[Neelis]

Again... crap. Really should not film when I am trying to drive with one hand and a 3s lipo.

Toasted the aliexpress steel slipper clutch. By combining parts of the original Mega slipper clutch and the aliexpress slipper, I could make the most decent version I have had so far. I actually mounted the steel spur gear onto the stock Mega slipper clutch.
Put it pretty tight and now I am pulling wheelies, ow yeah!

I have a 3s slipper clutch and 0.8mod pinion in stock, in case the current slipper fails.

Switched to the alu motor mount today, the motor screw got embedded deeper and deeper into the plastic motor mount.

Better.

 

[Neelis]

Some stuff happened in the mean time. A hand full of bearings started to go bad, so I ordered a set of bearings and replaced what was neccesary.

And during the last run I noticed a rattle from the rear diff and it appeared that the rear diff input gear was worn

The diff itself doesn't look to bad, but I will switch to metal gears for the rear diff to make it more bullet proof.

As I had some bad bearing, I cutted 1 open en used the inner ring to put around the output of the slipper clutch to prevent splitting the shaft:

I have the slipper clutch pretty much locked and having the punch setting at 3/5, the Typhon does wheelies pretty easy, that is probably the input gear of the diff has worn out fast. To have an idea if the slipper clutch slips at all I marked it with a marker for future reference:

Then, last but not least, some 3d printing going on. We have a 3d printer at work and the colleague who runs it, is pretty enthusiastic about it, so he is willing to print parts for my rc car. I measured and modeled a motor support to (hopefully) prevent bending the motor mount plate. It is printed from ABS to deal with the heat of the motor. Fit is perfect.

 

[FireDrake001]

Broke the Mega slipper clutch last weekend on 3s, maybe not that strange.
View attachment 292137

Bought this steel 'ebay' version of the same slipper clutch, let's see how long that holds up:
View attachment 292138

I am not expecting much of it, but it will do for now.

Planning on converting to 4S slipper clutch, but I wasn't happy about all the parts you need besides that slipper clutch.
I will also need that red hex, cover and 0.8mod pinion:

Arrma 4s slipper set 0.8 mod	ARA310948
Arrma red hex for slipper clutch	AR310881
Arrma cover for slipper clutch	AR311033 / AR310882
Arrma pinion 17t 0.8mod	ARA311000

But complaining doesn't bring me anywhere, so I will have this order out soon.

You could also get the hot racing one. That one is great. Buy the 4s kraton one from Jennysrc and it will save you a pretty penny. I did the same type of conversion you did and that 4s one holds up well to.

 

[Neelis]

You could also get the hot racing one. That one is great. Buy the 4s kraton one from Jennysrc and it will save you a pretty penny. I did the same type of conversion you did and that 4s one holds up well to.

You mean the slipper clutch, motor mount or input gear/diff?

 

[FireDrake001]

You mean the slipper clutch, motor mount or input gear/diff?

I meant the Kraton 4s slipper clutch or the hot racing steel slipper clutch. Both come with spur gears that will handle 4s. You rmotor mount may bend eventually but it should last a while depending on how you bash it. The input gears and diffs are composite so you could always go with what is in the 4s kraton to eliminate further issues once those are munched. 48 pitch teeth are just too fragile and works better in 2wd cuz they have less strain.

 

[Neelis]

Clear ryank

I meant the Kraton 4s slipper clutch or the hot racing steel slipper clutch. Both come with spur gears that will handle 4s. You rmotor mount may bend eventually but it should last a while depending on how you bash it. The input gears and diffs are composite so you could always go with what is in the 4s kraton to eliminate further issues once those are munched. 48 pitch teeth are just too fragile and works better in 2wd cuz they have less strain.

The 48p slipper with steel spur is holding up well until now.
Have a 3s slipper in stock, in case the 48p one fails. If the 3s slipper fails, I will try the Hot Racing slipper.

Metal input and diff gear are on its way.

Had some fun with Solidworks and a caliper today, modeled a mounting plate for the Hobbywing Max10 ESC, as my original mounting plate cracked.
With some luck it can be printed on Wednesday.

To replace:

 

[FireDrake001]

Clear ryank

The 48p slipper with steel spur is holding up well until now.
Have a 3s slipper in stock, in case the 48p one fails. If the 3s slipper fails, I will try the Hot Racing slipper.

Metal input and diff gear are on its way.

Had some fun with Solidworks and a caliper today, modeled a mounting plate for the Hobbywing Max10 ESC, as my original mounting plate cracked.
With some luck it can be printed on Wednesday.
View attachment 299891

To replace:
View attachment 299892

Looks and sounds like a great idea. It will rip!

 

[Neelis]

Picked up the metal input gear ARA311153 and the housing ARA311154. Unfortunately the metal diff gear was not in stock.

Consedering my composite diff was still pretty ok, I decided to install the metal input and use the old diff. Runs pretty smooth, so good for now.

 

[Neelis]

Alrighty, back for an update.

3D printing went well and is holding up well, had to a small adjustment and it was good to go.

Then I had a bash meeting with some other Dutchies and that was very cool. Bunch of dude, sharing the same passion and having fun.

Ending up killing the dp48 pinion and the screaming noise was killing me, so I went for the 0.8 mod spur and pinion. The Hobbywing fan also didn't make it unfortunately.

The aftermath.

The screamer.

Had a little crash, didn't even realize it happened :S

So I went for the 0.8mod spur en pinion. A 17t pinion, but I realized soon enough that the motor gets way to hot and offroad it is not the right gearing for me. I was happy with 23-91, so I went to 17-57 to have a similar gearing and I am happy with that.

Some detail work.

Metal input gear for the front diff

And then the motor fan project, I had to fit this heatsink and fan into the car and it was not a straight fit.

So after some butchering, it worked, but it is horribly tight.

It is functional and it works good, did some 3s speed runs and the motor was much colder then without the fan, but working on the car is challenging now. Let's see what I do with it.
What I did not expect was that cover to fit, but it actually fits perfectly.

That's it for now!

 

[Neelis]

Has been a while ago since I updated my RC built, so this post will be a long one.

Upgraded to the FlySky GT5 radio set, great improvement, love how responsive it is and the gyro does a good job on the Typhon.

Basherdebash!

Did the (necessary) update to the Traxxas pivit balls 5525 and 5529, can highly recommend this one!

Got some Chinese paddle tyres, unfortunately the glue didn't hold during my first bash sessions.

I keep breaking the Max10 mounting plates, this time I got a more beefy version printed. 0.5mm thicker, solid printed and a bit more material around the mounting holes.

Built myself a 110 Watt discharger, works great

And it was time to upgrade to a steel spur gear.

Little sand drainage hole, does a good job actually.

Ready to bash!

I was preparing for bashing with some forum members here in Holland and the location is an open dune area in het forest, so sand everywhere. To save my fans, I made some custom stainless meshes to prevent big particles entering the fans.

And this was the aftermath of the bash session. Broken rear diff and unglued paddle tyres.

Building up again with diffs with metal gears (Arrma Boost Box)

Happy bashing everyone!

 

[Sheed85]

Has been a while ago since I updated my RC built, so this post will be a long one.

Upgraded to the FlySky GT5 radio set, great improvement, love how responsive it is and the gyro does a good job on the Typhon.
View attachment 318959

Basherdebash!
View attachment 318960

Did the (necessary) update to the Traxxas pivit balls 5525 and 5529, can highly recommend this one!
View attachment 318961
View attachment 318962View attachment 318963View attachment 318964

Got some Chinese paddle tyres, unfortunately the glue didn't hold during my first bash sessions.
View attachment 318965
View attachment 318966

I keep breaking the Max10 mounting plates, this time I got a more beefy version printed. 0.5mm thicker, solid printed and a bit more material around the mounting holes.
View attachment 318967

Built myself a 110 Watt discharger, works great
View attachment 318969

And it was time to upgrade to a steel spur gear.
View attachment 318970

Little sand drainage hole, does a good job actually.
View attachment 318971

Ready to bash!
View attachment 318972
I was preparing for bashing with some forum members here in Holland and the location is an open dune area in het forest, so sand everywhere. To save my fans, I made some custom stainless meshes to prevent big particles entering the fans.
View attachment 318974View attachment 318975View attachment 318976

And this was the aftermath of the bash session. Broken rear diff and unglued paddle tyres.View attachment 318978View attachment 318977

Building up again with diffs with metal gears (Arrma Boost Box)
View attachment 318979View attachment 318980View attachment 318981View attachment 318982

Happy bashing everyone!

Nice job! Interested in the results of the metal boost box. I know it's not a cheap upgrade.

 

[Neelis]

Nice job! Interested in the results of the metal boost box. I know it's not a cheap upgrade.

Yes me too, I am curious how durable they are. Most be a vast improvement over the plastic gears. I was already using the steel input gears for the diff and they held up really well with the plastic crown gears (which is not that strange).

I am now at 4s spec, expect the drive shafts, so I think this might be a pretty durable setup, as long as I stick to 3s...

 

[Neelis]

Let's see if this Ali stuff outlasts the Arrma stuff.

 

[Neelis]

Got some big wheel, are meant for a Traxxas Maxx.
Does the job for me, but I am disappointed in the built quality of the wheel, they are as oval as can be... But great grip and looks cool.

Then I wanted to fix the wheel wobble, found some videos on YouTube, but that did not give me any satisfying results.

Started to look into the problem and possible fixes myself.

On my Typhon there is space between the outer bearing and the wheel hex, is about 0.2mm, using a feeler gauge to check that.

If you would find 6x8 washer with a thickness range of 0.1 to 0.3mm I would have a perfect fix for the wheel wobble and what I found was the Mugen B0766 shim set. 6x8mm in thicknesses of 0.1, 0.2 and 0.3mm, 10 of each thickness. Happy days.

I started with a 0.3mm shim between the bearing and the wheel hex and I could slide the pin back in with ease. Added a 0.1mm washer and I had to force to pin in.
0.3mm it is.

Went around the car, 2x 0.2mm and 2x 0.3mm did the trick and the wheel wobble was minimalized and the bearings run smoothly.
Again, happy days.

0.3 shim in place

Happy bashing everybody!

 

[Neelis]

Bought a set of Kraton 6S shocks. The front shock can be used on my Typhon 3s as the rear shock and I will convert the rear shocks of the Kraton to Typhon 6s spec front shock. Still following?

For that I will use these parts:
Shock body 16x49mm 2st AR330476
Shock shaft 4x57 AR330477

Then the springs. Stock spring rate of the Typhon 3s and Mega is:
Front: 1.00n/mm
Rear: 0.84n/mm

The Typhon 6s is way softer:
Front: ARAC8941 - 70mm Length (75.5gf/mm)
Rear: ARAC8948 - 84mm M (56.6gf/mm)

What I want are some harder spring and I ended up choosing:
Front: Shock Springs 70mm 1.13N/mm (6.5lbf/In)ARA330637
Rear: Shock spring 84mm 0.94n/mm Talion 2st - AR330501

Parts are on the way, looking forward to this upgrade

 

[Neelis]

Started the conversion of the shock from rear Kraton to front Typhon spec:

Waiting for springs and gave to order shorter socks. I now used 60wt ~ 800cst oil. In the rear is still the original oil that I expect to be 1000cst. I am sure that 1000cst is too thick, those shocks have too much damping. To be continued...