Fury Upgrade motor on arrma fury

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Kaku

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Arrma RC's
  1. Fury
I have an arrma fury all stock and I just want to upgrade the motor to make it go faster. Is there a motor I can get in Australia to upgrade it. I need it in a budget of about $100-$200 aud.
 
I have a traxxas 550 12t titan or tritan in it. I forgot what it was. Which I put in it today before that was the stock 15t brushed 540. And by faster I want it to have more speed.
 
These aren't bad either:

HobbyStar 3660 4-Pole Waterproof Brushless Sensorless Motor for RC Car, Truck 4300KV, 3T https://a.co/d/7rbF5Jx

Remember this is for a budget minded build. This isn't top of the line stuff but it's not junk either. I'll bet my left nut it'll blow your mind compared to the brushed stuff you're playing with now.

Also understand you're gonna need a lipo or two and a suitable charger.
 
This is 2WD?

This should get it moving, it's really a 2S setup even though it says 3S is OK.
Castle Creations Sidewinder SW4 Waterproof 1/10 ESC/Motor Combo w/1406 (5700kV) Basher Edition
his combo includes a Castle 1406-5700Kv sensored motor. The 1406-5700kv motor is a great motor for 2WD short course trucks on 2s LiPo and geared conservatively. It makes a great combo for 1/10th 2WD Stadium trucks and buggies on 2s for general bashing and limited runs on 3s; temperatures will climb quickly on 3s. It makes a great upgrade for 1/10th scale on-road cars for 2s and 3s use. NOT recommended for use in 4WD short course trucks. Please refer to the Gearing Chart in the resources tab for recommended motor, battery and gearing for some of the more popular vehicles on the market.

Or Hobbywing.
Hobbywing QuicRun 10BL120 G2 Sensorless Brushless ESC/3652SL Motor Combo (3250kV)
Hobbywing QuicRun 10BL120 G2 Sensorless Brushless ESC/3660SL Motor Combo (3700kV)

Any of these will be much faster than the current setup and you might need to adjust your pinion gears to match.
 
Yes it's 2wd and I'm wondering how you would connect it to the receiver or if the wires for the receiver than the servo? Or does the servo connect to the receiver?
 
Last edited:
Yes it's 2wd and I'm wondering how you would connect it to the receiver or if the wires for the receiver than the servo? Or does the servo connect to the receiver?
Both the ESC and Servo plug into the receiver. Servo is channel 1, ESC is channel 2.
Also, you can’t run a brushless motor with your current ESC. You would need both the ESC and motor to upgrade. Unless you went with a lower turn (less than 12t) brushed motor. But I wouldn’t recommend that. Brushless is the way to go.
 
Yes it's 2wd and I'm wondering how you would connect it to the receiver or if the wires for the receiver than the servo? Or does the servo connect to the receiver?
There should be a diagram in with the ESC/Motor user guide.

It basically hooks up the way you have it now except you have 3 wires instead of 2 to the motor. If you get a sensored ESC/Motor combo you will have flat ribbon cable that connects them. Sensored motors give the ESC information about the motor and it runs more efficiently. Also stick to the same brand if you are doing sensored.

This is from the Castle setup above. It is not Sensored.
1696058709643.png


Similar for the HW. Note: this calls out the wire color and the terminal. It implies that it should be soldered directly to the motor, which is the cleanest install, but it could easily be bullet connectors too. It's also a sensored setup and shows the Sensor wire connection.
1696058764888.png
 
Cool thanks that helps a lot but relating to my message before yours do you think that motor, esc and lipo will work together?
 
Cool thanks that helps a lot but relating to my message before yours do you think that motor, esc and lipo will work together?
Absolutely, its a system. Cheap batteries don't provide current and droop (Voltage). Under powered ESC hold back the motor.

The idea is you want the next piece in the system to get what ever it needs. i.e. no bottle necks.

There is also loss in the system. Nothing is 100% efficient and each stage has some voltage drop and loss of current. Another reason to over engineer from the source.
 
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