What 17mm hex setup is better

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oldgoat

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I want to get 17mm hex for the Vorteks. I was thinking about getting the stub shafts from a Typhon and put those arrma hex on. I see some complain about slop in them though. Any recommendations for 17mm hex that fit Vorteks stub shaft or Typhon stub shaft?
 
I want to get 17mm hex for the Vorteks. I was thinking about getting the stub shafts from a Typhon and put those arrma hex on. I see some complain about slop in them though. Any recommendations for 17mm hex that fit Vorteks stub shaft or Typhon stub shaft?
My vote before M2C, and works well, is the Typhon method for 17mm.

TODAY
What I did on the 3S Big Rock was the M2C 17mm method. Very easy! Link is for the Vorteks

1686505675204.png

1686505713162.png
 
Although I didn’t have mc2 brand those aluminum nuts that go on the stub shaft kinda scare me. I had those for a 12 set up and the barrel nut lasted two minutes. The worst pat is I can’t buy just the barrel nut
 
I see some complain about slop in them though.
Forgot...

Slop. 3S rigs have a lot of slop in a few places:

1. Steering bellhousing. Some like me have added shims
2. Servo saver stock have has slop. Many here use the Kimbrough 124 large as a replacement
3. Even with the M2C 17mm hex. I still use small 1-2mm shims to remove any slop if any exist for one of the wheels.

Servo saver
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O1QQC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Bellhousing
 
Yep I did all that and what a difference. That’s why I asked about the Typhon hubs, I see they can be sloppy but I can’t find anyone talking about a fix for it or a better tighter hex.
 
Yep I did all that and what a difference. That’s why I asked about the Typhon hubs, I see they can be sloppy but I can’t find anyone talking about a fix for it or a better tighter hex.
My thoughts with all 6s hubs or hex...just shim them. Even my Typhon TLR or any of the 17mm 6s rigs are the same. I have a pack of shims from 1, 2, 3, etc, that go over the axle end. Then I place the hex and temp tighten it down, and I see how much back/forth it has. I add shims as needed until the hex is not moving back and forth. This also keeps the CVD joint from the axle to stop the back/forth play in the driveshaft.

Shims work great!
I want to get 17mm hex for the Vorteks. I was thinking about getting the stub shafts from a Typhon and put those arrma hex on. I see some complain about slop in them though. Any recommendations for 17mm hex that fit Vorteks stub shaft or Typhon stub shaft?

Found a post here of exactly what we are using and the product you see there. It works great to get the slop out

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/anyone-shim-the-axle-shafts-behind-the-hexes.54545/post-787659
 
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I’m thinking about hot racing set up but a little worried about the hex not being a full hex. Ive looked at m2c set up also.
Any thoughts?
 
I’m thinking about hot racing set up but a little worried about the hex not being a full hex. Ive looked at m2c set up also.
Any thoughts?

When I first took the venture on I did HR but I really liked how simple the M2C process was over the other. So I have done M2C on all the 3S rigs going forward. My vote is for M2C...but keep researching! (y)

HR in 2020. Pain IMHO with the HR pieces!!
1686611378718.png




M2C process goes right over the stock axle so simple and easy to install. M2C backs it up
1686611497904.png
 
I have the duratrax 12mm hex and use HR 12-17mm. Works great for me.

However, I'm tempted to try this on my 3s infraction..
View attachment 305525
Well, the price is right for sure!

The key concern is the center that holds it to the stock axle and how well it is built, and its durability. M2C's first ones, the center lock nut, were too short, and he made them longer to get more threads over the threaded axle screw. Maybe YT those and see what others are saying for durability but for $20 can at least try.

Keep us posted! (y)
 
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