3D printed Typhon arms holding up thus far...

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suchtragedy

(┛ಠ_ಠ)┛彡ɯɹɐ loɹʇuoɔ ǝʞoɹq
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Arrma RC's
  1. 4x4-Mega
  2. BigRock 4x4
  3. Felony
  4. Granite
  5. Infraction
  6. Limitless
  7. Kraton 6s
  8. Outcast 4s
  9. Typhon 3s
  10. Voltage
I have the Typhon arms on my Granite but of course they snapped pretty easily after a bad landing. So while I wait for my RPM replacements to show up in the mail I found a good model of a set on Thingiverse and gave them a try and so far they seem to be holding up well.

Links for reference:
- Arrma Typhon 3S Front Right Suspension Arm
- Arrma Typhon 3S Front Left Suspension Arm

I used Amazon branded cheapo PETG that I never really use because it tends to be stringy but it's pretty hard and sturdy + it's got a tiny bit of give and so far I can't seem to snap these arms after printing with this filament. At first I had issues with printing due to the arms warping and lifting off the bed no matter what I tried. I found success once I disabled part cooling and used a raft, but I think just using a raft is all I needed. I printed with arm upright length wise with rear of the arm facing the bed for better ease of removal of the raft as well as keeping the layers perpendicular with direction of impact forces for best strength. The only thing I needed to do post print was drill the holes for the pins a little bigger and a tiny bit of shaving on the inside edges where the arm mates to the chassis to make sure the arms swung freely and didn't have friction binding.

I used inner/outer wall count of 6 and 100% infill and so far I am pretty happy with how they turned out and their performance. I will probably run with them until I get a failure and I'll stick the RPM arms in my parts box for now. If anyone is interested in my print settings I can share those if requested.

Is anyone else running printed arms?

20200310_164940.jpg
 
I’m wondering if you made arms without voids in them and just printed them with a 50% infill if they would be stronger and /or lighter?
 
I’m wondering if you made arms without voids in them and just printed them with a 50% infill if they would be stronger and /or lighter?
Probably would be just fine with extra wall count. I don't know how to model anything and limited to what I can do in tinkercad otherwise I would be experimenting more.
 
Probably would be just fine with extra wall count. I don't know how to model anything and limited to what I can do in tinkercad otherwise I would be experimenting more.
The way I would deal with this is import the Thingiverse STL file in TinkerCAD and add filler pieces. Then when slicing it, set the infill to 50%.
 
The way I would deal with this is import the Thingiverse STL file in TinkerCAD and add filler pieces. Then when slicing it, set the infill to 50%.
Just played with TinkerCAD some and created an account. Pretty nifty
 
The way I would deal with this is import the Thingiverse STL file in TinkerCAD and add filler pieces. Then when slicing it, set the infill to 50%.
Yeah that's easy for mostly flat parts like this so I can probably try to make something later.

I just weighed one of these printed front arms against the Typhon stock arm just out of curiosity. Printed part feels a lot heavier than stock when held in my hand but not as big of a difference as I thought. Will be interesting to test an arm with no voids with less infill. Gee thanks man now you gave me another project I didn't need but can't help but try ?

20200310_185745.jpg
 
Yeah that's easy for mostly flat parts like this so I can probably try to make something later.

I just weighed one of these printed front arms against the Typhon stock arm just out of curiosity. Printed part feels a lot heavier than stock when held in my hand but not as big of a difference as I thought. Will be interesting to test an arm with no voids with less infill. Gee thanks man now you gave me another project I didn't need but can't help but try ?

View attachment 69292
Wow! 3g is surprisingly close! Impressive that the print is so similar to the original.
 
i have bags full of printed arms, for both the 4s outcast and the 3s typhon.. i found that even pla printed arms are just as strong as the stock arrma arms.. i use them quite often when i break a rpm arm.. i break alot of rpm front arms for the typhon 3s... they are a good alternative to down time.. ?

now if you have a piece of garolite and some tulman nylon, you could print some arms that id say are stronger than rpm arms..
Wow! 3g is surprisingly close! Impressive that the print is so similar to the original.


the design is spot on to the original.. pretty sure these were scanned... if not, the designer is damn good at cad, but that wouldnt surprise me, there are alot of great cad design's on thingiverse...
 
i have bags full of printed arms, for both the 4s outcast and the 3s typhon.. i found that even pla printed arms are just as strong as the stock arrma arms.. i use them quite often when i break a rpm arm.. i break alot of rpm front arms for the typhon 3s... they are a good alternative to down time.. ?
Do you have any experience with carbon fiber laced filaments? I have been curious in how it stacks up against PETG in terms of strength.
 
Yeah that's easy for mostly flat parts like this so I can probably try to make something later.

I just weighed one of these printed front arms against the Typhon stock arm just out of curiosity. Printed part feels a lot heavier than stock when held in my hand but not as big of a difference as I thought. Will be interesting to test an arm with no voids with less infill. Gee thanks man now you gave me another project I didn't need but can't help but try ?

View attachment 69292
I have that same scale ?
Do you have any experience with carbon fiber laced filaments? I have been curious in how it stacks up against PETG in terms of strength.
All my prints so far have been carbon PLA. None of my PETG prints turned out well, but I was having bed issues at the time.
 
I have that same scale ?

All my prints so far have been carbon PLA. None of my PETG prints turned out well, but I was having bed issues at the time.
Yeah PETG has always been a pain for me with prints lifting and warping unless I use rafts which I hate using normally.

So carbon PLA is legit stronger or as strong as PETG? And lays down like normal PLA? If so I think I'll pick up a spool.
 
Yeah PETG has always been a pain for me with prints lifting and warping unless I use rafts which I hate using normally.

So carbon PLA is legit stronger or as strong as PETG? And lays down like normal PLA? If so I think I'll pick up a spool.
I think it’s pretty good but I did have one bad spool. It had too many fibers or something and kept clogging my hot end.
 
I think it’s pretty good but I did have one bad spool. It had too many fibers or something and kept clogging my hot end.
Good to know. Also good luck with your bed issues and hot end clogging, you might want to see your doctor about it ?
 
Do you have any experience with carbon fiber laced filaments? I have been curious in how it stacks up against PETG in terms of strength.


yes i use it quite often.. but i typically use it for other reasons than strength.. mainly finish.. the matte finish carbon filament produces is stunning.. i can not state for sure if carbon impregnated filament is stronger, it reacts very much just like the base plastic its manufactured in for me..
I think it’s pretty good but I did have one bad spool. It had too many fibers or something and kept clogging my hot end.


this is quite common.. there isnt really any standard on the amount of fiber introduced.. the more expensive manufacturer's tend to keep an eye on that, while the cheapo companys don't, some spools may print fine, others nothing but a headache...
 
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