Kraton 3s/4s motor mount upgrade

I bought a similar one on AliExpress but with an adjustable motor mount.
I haven't installed it yet but I think it will be much stronger than the motor plates which I've bent a few already.
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IF you intend to Bash Hard and do Big Jumps... It may not be a wise idea.. since when that casing/motor mount gets bent.. it's going to cost Much more to replace..

That's why Arrma made the motor-mount-plate a separate piece so you can easily remove/repair or replace it..

You can get replacement aftermarket motor plates for $11 - 16..



Just my honest $0.02
 
I have been having such good luck sealing the power modules that I wouldn't use that one. Too many holes to allow dust and dirt entry for me.

The new Arrma Motor plate is also an extra 1mm thicker to help with this.
 
I have been having such good luck sealing the power modules that I wouldn't use that one. Too many holes to allow dust and dirt entry for me.

The new Arrma Motor plate is also an extra 1mm thicker to help with this.
Have to agree with you. Although some of the aftermarket ones look cool, to many entry points for dirt. I also prefer the sliding motor mounts as opposed to preinstalled holes for various size pinions. I believe aarma changed to these on some of the later versions. Jmo
 
The new Arrma Motor plate is also an extra 1mm thicker to help with this
It’s very strong. I’ve been testing one for months on my granite that I send hard and messy. It’s considerably stronger and better made than the old one. On jennysrc.com it comes with the 3s infraction, vendetta and 4s Kraton/outcast for around $20
 
It’s very strong. I’ve been testing one for months on my granite that I send hard and messy. It’s considerably stronger and better made than the old one. On jennysrc.com it comes with the 3s infraction, vendetta and 4s Kraton/outcast for around $20
I second this. Broke the old style one but the new one is holding up well so far.
 
I second this. Broke the old style one but the new one is holding up well so far.
Yup. I went through 6 stock mounts and 4 hot racing mounts a couple years back before I put m2c mount/brace combos on the 2 cars I drive hardest. I run the 6mm mount on my other 4 cars.
 
What's the part number on the new harder arrma motor mount???
I just bent mine 😬😅
 
What's the part number on the new harder arrma motor mount???
I just bent mine 😬😅
The new one is part #ARA311106, according to the 4s Kraton exploded view. You can look up all Arrma car parts on the arrma-rc.com site. It’s super handy and is under the manuals and support section for each car.

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Came across this on Amazon. Anybody here tried it? It has 10 reviews (all positive), and looks like it could be well worth the money:

Arrma 1:10 KRATON 4S BLX/SENTON 3S BLX Upgrade Parts Aluminum Rear Gear Protection Motor Mount - 10Pc Set Red https://a.co/d/gEbLXGU
Wanted to follow up that I did install it which went fine. Have only taken it out a couple times in the snow so no real hard tests.

One thing I did notice was it was a bit warm. Seems to acts like a large heat sink. Which may explain why the stock mount also has a tendency to get bent.

The stock plate gets warm, heats up the plastic module which in turn make it more flexible. More flex on the module equals more pressure on the plate to hold everything flat.
(Just my theory)

I won't give it a full seal of approval until the summer, when I can hit the bmx track.
 
Wanted to follow up that I did install it which went fine. Have only taken it out a couple times in the snow so no real hard tests.

One thing I did notice was it was a bit warm. Seems to acts like a large heat sink. Which may explain why the stock mount also has a tendency to get bent.

The stock plate gets warm, heats up the plastic module which in turn make it more flexible. More flex on the module equals more pressure on the plate to hold everything flat.
(Just my theory)

I won't give it a full seal of approval until the summer, when I can hit the bmx track.
The plastic isn't the issue with the the power module. It was the old school 5mm motor plate. It just wasn't thick enough, period. And not in only thickness, but the new motor plate restores some material in key areas to make it stronger--like it should have been initially.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/arrma-3s-thicker-6mm-motor-plate.50462/

Aluminum has a higher thermal transmittance than plastic, meaning it much more easily transmits heat when contacted. They both could be the exact same temperature, but the aluminum would feel hotter since more heat is flowing to your finger. So "feel" can be deceiving, temp wise.
 
The plastic isn't the issue with the the power module. It was the old school 5mm motor plate. It just wasn't thick enough, period. And not in only thickness, but the new motor plate restores some material in key areas to make it stronger--like it should have been initially.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/arrma-3s-thicker-6mm-motor-plate.50462/

Aluminum has a higher thermal transmittance than plastic, meaning it much more easily transmits heat when contacted. They both could be the exact same temperature, but the aluminum would feel hotter since more heat is flowing to your finger. So "feel" can be deceiving, temp wise.
I agree the 6mm mount is definitely a huge step up from the original. It's what I took off to test this aluminum module out. When I ordered this the 6mm plate wasn't available but ended up being able to get one before the aluminum mount was delivered.

When I removed it from the truck it was still perfectly straight.
But since @quiznatodd bidness asked about the aluminum module, I figured I should test mine out.

I agree that aluminum has a higher thermal conductive than plastic which is why I pointed out a possible pro for the module is it works like a giant heat sink. But disagree with plastic feeling cooler. I've been burnt by molten plastic and can promise you it did feel hot🤣🤣🤣😭😭😭

But I disagree with your definitive answer that the plastic mount isn't a possible issue.

I could make a jig to test how much force each would take to deform but don't have the time and don't want to destroy good parts. (I'd rather break them the old fashion way)

But for the plate to bend there's 2 possibilities either the plastic module was stronger then the 5mm plate. I'm this case the bend would be right where the motor bolts on. Or the module has more flex to it then the aluminum plate can handle, which means on impact it would be bent on the ears where it bolts to the plate.

Having gone through 4 or 5 plates and can tell you I've had them bend in both locations.🤷‍♂️

Think of a rc with a plastic chassis and a aluminum top plate which is too thin. Under a hard flex the top plate would deform and stay bent.

Now you could solve in 2 ways either strengthen the top plate until its stronger then the force of the flex from the chassis or stiffen the chassis to reduce the force on the top plate.

But without testing I never say definitively what's better and try to keep an open mind.

There something called the Kruger Dunning effect which basically shows that the level of confidence and the level of knowledge don't necessarily run along linear paths. So the most confident person isn't necessarily the one with the most knowledge.
 
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Came across this on Amazon. Anybody here tried it? It has 10 reviews (all positive), and looks like it could be well worth the money:

Arrma 1:10 KRATON 4S BLX/SENTON 3S BLX Upgrade Parts Aluminum Rear Gear Protection Motor Mount - 10Pc Set Red https://a.co/d/gEbLXGU
I like it ..it's red my favorite color and would look great on my Big Papa long Rock..but I don't like the price.i think it's over priced
 
I agree the 6mm mount is definitely a huge step up from the original. It's what I took off to test this aluminum module out. When I ordered this the 6mm plate wasn't available but ended up being able to get one before the aluminum mount was delivered.

When I removed it from the truck it was still perfectly straight.
But since @quiznatodd bidness asked about the aluminum module, I figured I should test mine out.

I agree that aluminum has a higher thermal conductive than plastic which is why I pointed out a possible pro for the module is it works like a giant heat sink. But disagree with plastic feeling cooler. I've been burnt by molten plastic and can promise you it did feel hot🤣🤣🤣😭😭😭

But I disagree with your definitive answer that the plastic mount isn't a possible issue.

I could make a jig to test how much force each would take to deform but don't have the time and don't want to destroy good parts. (I'd rather break them the old fashion way)

But for the plate to bend there's 2 possibilities either the plastic module was stronger then the 5mm plate. I'm this case the bend would be right where the motor bolts on. Or the module has more flex to it then the aluminum plate can handle, which means on impact it would be bent on the ears where it bolts to the plate.

Having gone through 4 or 5 plates and can tell you I've had them bend in both locations.🤷‍♂️

Think of a rc with a plastic chassis and a aluminum top plate which is too thin. Under a hard flex the top plate would deform and stay bent.

Now you could solve in 2 ways either strengthen the top plate until its stronger then the force of the flex from the chassis or stiffen the chassis to reduce the force on the top plate.

But without testing I never say definitively what's better and try to keep an open mind.

There something called the Kruger Dunning effect which basically shows that the level of confidence and the level of knowledge don't necessarily run along linear paths. So the most confident person isn't necessarily the one with the most knowledge.
My point is that Arrma didn't redesign the plastic housing. They refreshed the design of the motor plate. The fact that all new 3s Arrmas are shipping with it and that the old 5mm plate is discontinued is by itself pretty telling that the 6mm one is the fix to solve the issue.

Keep us updated with the status of the all aluminum one. The more products that work the better.

As for my observations, feel free to take or leave them. I'm not offended 👍
 
I agree the 6mm mount is definitely a huge step up from the original. It's what I took off to test this aluminum module out. When I ordered this the 6mm plate wasn't available but ended up being able to get one before the aluminum mount was delivered.

When I removed it from the truck it was still perfectly straight.
But since @quiznatodd bidness asked about the aluminum module, I figured I should test mine out.

I agree that aluminum has a higher thermal conductive than plastic which is why I pointed out a possible pro for the module is it works like a giant heat sink. But disagree with plastic feeling cooler. I've been burnt by molten plastic and can promise you it did feel hot🤣🤣🤣😭😭😭

But I disagree with your definitive answer that the plastic mount isn't a possible issue.

I could make a jig to test how much force each would take to deform but don't have the time and don't want to destroy good parts. (I'd rather break them the old fashion way)

But for the plate to bend there's 2 possibilities either the plastic module was stronger then the 5mm plate. I'm this case the bend would be right where the motor bolts on. Or the module has more flex to it then the aluminum plate can handle, which means on impact it would be bent on the ears where it bolts to the plate.

Having gone through 4 or 5 plates and can tell you I've had them bend in both locations.🤷‍♂️

Think of a rc with a plastic chassis and a aluminum top plate which is too thin. Under a hard flex the top plate would deform and stay bent.

Now you could solve in 2 ways either strengthen the top plate until its stronger then the force of the flex from the chassis or stiffen the chassis to reduce the force on the top plate.

But without testing I never say definitively what's better and where the issue is.

There something called the Kruger Dunning effect which basically shows that the level of confidence and the level of knowledge don't necessarily run along linear paths.
So you think the plastic spurcase may be the reason that the weaker mounts bend? Those being the 5mm generic Amazon and eBay mounts, the hot racing mount and the old stock mount among others. But at the same time, the thicker more heavily built mounts like m2c, the new stock mount and several others I can’t remember the name of, rarely bend. If what you’re saying was the case and the spur-case is weak enough to allow the mount to bend… wouldn’t the stronger mounts rip out of the spur-case under stress?

I’ve been through seven, 3 and 4s cars over the last three years I have broken one spur case. That only happened when I pulled to hard while removing it. My 4s builds, with larger, heavier motors, I put through a lot of beatings and the spur cases are fine. So I completely disagree with you on this and don’t understand why you’re trying to solve a fixed issue to begin with 😑 The mount was the issue. This is obvious because of the many aftermarket mounts that solved the problem. Arrma simply followed suit by upgrading the stock mount.
 
So you think the plastic spurcase may be the reason that the weaker mounts bend? Those being the 5mm generic Amazon and eBay mounts, the hot racing mount and the old stock mount among others. But at the same time, the thicker more heavily built mounts like m2c, the new stock mount and several others I can’t remember the name of, rarely bend. If what you’re saying was the case and the spur-case is weak enough to allow the mount to bend… wouldn’t the stronger mounts rip out of the spur-case under stress?

I’ve been through seven, 3 and 4s cars over the last three years I have broken one spur case. That only happened when I pulled to hard while removing it. My 4s builds, with larger, heavier motors, I put through a lot of beatings and the spur cases are fine. So I completely disagree with you on this and don’t understand why you’re trying to solve a fixed issue to begin with 😑 The mount was the issue. This is obvious because of the many aftermarket mounts that solved the problem. Arrma simply followed suit by upgrading the stock mount.
Not trying to solve a fixed issue, just trying out a possible different fix. I've been happy with my 6mm plate but figured I should try out the full aluminum one for better or worse since I did already have one in my parts bin.

Now if I wanted to fix a problem I would figure out an easy way to mount a center diff.

As for the flexing of the module. I'm not trying to pass it as fact full stop. Just my own hypothesis based on my observations. Stuff like rubbing from the spur gear, bending on the ears, the input shafts on the spur ballooning and cracking all lead me to think that it's rocking and flexing side to side side the top and bottom are secured.

I think your observations fall right in line with mine. If the module couldn't flex then you'd expect to see more breaks at the bolts.

Heck I remember before the updated plate people were putting shcs in to holes at the feet of the power module to keep either side from pulling out and the 5mm plate was holding up better.

Now full disclosure, I've been fighting a pneumonia for about a week now and have been on a steady diet of cold medications so this may just all be a NyQuil induced rant. 🤣🤣🤣🤢
 
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Not trying to solve a fixed issue, just trying out a possible different fix. I've been happy with my 6mm plate but figured I should try out the full aluminum one for better or worse since I did already have one in my parts bin.

Now if I wanted to fix a problem I would figure out an easy way to mount a center diff.

As for the flexing of the module. I'm not trying to pass it as fact full stop. Just my own hypothesis based on my observations. Stuff like rubbing from the spur gear, bending on the ears, the input shafts on the spur ballooning and cracking all lead me to think that it's rocking and flexing side to side side the top and bottom are secured.

I think your observations fall right in line with mine. If the module couldn't flex then you'd expect to see more breaks at the bolts.

Heck I remember before the updated plate people were putting shcs in to holes at the feet of the power module to keep either side from pulling out and the 5mm plate was holding up better.

Now full disclosure, I've been fighting a pneumonia for about a week now and have been on a steady diet of cold medications so this may just all be a NyQuil induced rant. 🤣🤣🤣🤢

Drink plenty of water and get rested. Hope you recover Quickly. 💪
 
Drink plenty of water and get rested. Hope you recover Quickly. 💪
Thanks, definitely not something to mess around with. Been monitoring my oxygen levels with a finger reader and a couple nights ago was the worst when it dropped to 88%. But since then I've been slowly improving. A pulse/ oxygen meter something I recommend everyone have in their first aid kit.
 
Heck I remember before the updated plate people were putting shcs in to holes at the feet of the power module to keep either side from pulling out and the 5mm plate was holding up better
All good man. Yeah I remember when people started doing that and I tried it on four of my cars, there was no difference. The only thing that stopped the constant bending of motor plates is when I upgraded to m2c (I had at least a dozen bent motor mount plates, not including the ones that I hammered straight and tried again).

Let me take that back, when I started putting a couple of O-rings around the end of the can, that’s when my stock mounts started lasting longer. They would still bend, but it took more effort. I still do that on all of my cars regardless of the mount. I like that it keeps the can from slamming into the plastic chassis during jumps.

Get well soon, pneumonia is no joke. After one of my major surgeries in 2016, I almost died from it. Put me back in the hospital for 2 more weeks after I just gotten out after a week. I was watching TV with the family and suddenly passed out. I woke up several days later in the hospital. My family had called the ambulance immediately thank god.
Take care man.
 
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