3s Diff Issues

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THE DIFF IS A NO NAME and the slipper clutch is stock.

I would say this☝️, is your problem, I have never seen them not be machined to accept the slipper screw..

I would return it, and grab the necessary arrma part's instead.. you will have way less trouble all around.. 👍
 
I would say this☝️, is your problem, I have never seen them not be machined to accept the slipper screw..

I would return it, and grab the necessary arrma part's instead.. you will have way less trouble all around.. 👍
I already filled the diff with fluid and greased it up, so I don't think I can return it at this point. I am just going to cut the screw on the slipper clutch.
 
I already filled the diff with fluid and greased it up, so I don't think I can return it at this point. I am just going to cut the screw on the slipper clutch.
Clean it out really good anything can go back my friend with the proper recept.good luck my arrm brother!!
 
I already filled the diff with fluid and greased it up, so I don't think I can return it at this point. I am just going to cut the screw on the slipper clutch.
The only downside to that is it might be a bit tricky to get the screw through the slipper.
 
Update: Without the little plastic nut at the end of the slipper clutch the screw kept coming loose (even with red thread locker), so I went ahead and bought a V1 slipper clutch. Well... Even though the V1 slipper doesn't have a nut it still isn't deep enough to fit. I think I am going to dich the metal diff I bought and get an original plastic one, or I will get an RCAWD metal gear set and metal diff yokes.
 
Maybe grind down that input hex to fit, shorter slipper screw?

I run the older slippers and use blue thread locker, they seems to hold.
 
Update: Without the little plastic nut at the end of the slipper clutch the screw kept coming loose (even with red thread locker), so I went ahead and bought a V1 slipper clutch. Well... Even though the V1 slipper doesn't have a nut it still isn't deep enough to fit. I think I am going to dich the metal diff I bought and get an original plastic one, or I will get an RCAWD metal gear set and metal diff yokes.

Be careful with the RCAWD parts, a lot of them are just for bling and are worse than the stock parts. I bought a bunch of their stuff for another car the hubs and spindles have so much play in them that the car was almost undrivable, the turnbuckle ends were so sloppy I was surprised the balls didn't fall out, the driveshafts I was able to easily bend with one hand and the steering bell crank hit the top deck.
 
Be careful with the RCAWD parts, a lot of them are just for bling and are worse than the stock parts. I bought a bunch of their stuff for another car the hubs and spindles have so much play in them that the car was almost undrivable, the turnbuckle ends were so sloppy I was surprised the balls didn't fall out, the driveshafts I was able to easily bend with one hand and the steering bell crank hit the top deck.
Hmm... good to know, do you know of any other metal diffs that might work?
 
Check out Jennysrc.com and look for the 4S diff's if you are wanting Arrma metal take off's.
 
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