Typhon 3s to 6s conversion

[Siw]

Is it possible to fit the motor/esc/batteries etc from a typhon 6s into a 3s chassis?
If so will the drive train handle the extra power?

 

[joshludden]

Is it possible to fit the motor/esc/batteries etc from a typhon 6s into a 3s chassis?
If so will the drive train handle the extra power?

I would say no on all accounts

 

[MiamiRC]

It won't handle it. Your ring and input gears and your slipper are all going to be toast. Just get a 6S Typhon.

 

[slick2500]

It would work but for on road speed runs only, off road will tear up the drivetrain.

 

[Siw]

I would say no on all accounts

That’s my initial thoughts, but was considering buying a cheap roller and then buying some electronics to go in it

 

[Hector_Fisher]

Will it fit? Yes. 40mm sized motors (such as the typhon 6s motor) with out heatsinks will bolt up to the 3s motor plate. You will have to regear it. You will have to be creative with mounting the larger ESC as it won't mate up with the holes for the smaller 3s ESC. Fit wise, it will work.

Regarding how it will handle the power: like everyone above, the answer is no. It will not handle the power. You will start munching through diffs or slippers or driveshafts. If you do slow ramping up speed runs like @slick2500 said, then yes.

 

[SrC]

Is it possible to fit the motor/esc/batteries etc from a typhon 6s into a 3s chassis?
If so will the drive train handle the extra power?

Anything is possible. But why bother. Makes no sense to. Sure it has been done before. Most would do it for speed running however. Have at it. Anything is possible. Better to learn the 4x4 line limits better. You have a learning curve going on there. Drivetrain struggles with 4s as it stands. If you want to run 6s electrics with 4s packs max., makes more sense. On 6s will be way overpowered, less driveable, for just bashing.

 

[Apex Zulu]

Anything is possible. But why bother. Makes no sense to. Sure it has been done before. Most would do it for speed running however. Have at it. Anything is possible. Better to learn the 4x4 line limits better. You have a learning curve going on there. Drivetrain struggles with 4s as it stands. If you want to run 6s electrics with 4s packs max., makes more sense. On 6s will be way overpowered, less driveable, for just bashing.

This so true. I started with a 3s Granite. I put in the 6s Spektrum system and have paid dearly for going down this path. The plastic axles get torn up almost every pack on 6s, and every other pack on 4s. I upgraded to metal spur gear with aluminum clutch discs, and it does hold the power, but the output shaft on the slipper breaks often. The next point of failure is the upgraded metal differential. I was even paying a premium for the ultra rare EXB CNC metal diffs that are now out of production. Next you will start to strip wheel hubs on 4s and 6s. Upgraded from 14mm hub to 17mm hub and that worked. But the next failure point is the internal gears in the differential in the silicone fluid inside the diff, or you break the output shaft. Then the extra weight of the 2050kv motor bent up the motor mount. Spent $$$ on M2C racing motor mount and chassis brace to save my metal spur and pinions.

I upgraded to Kraton 4s arms/hubs/CVD 's, but then had to upgrade to the big rock chassis and body. Now at this point Kraton shocks were needed $$$ to handle the extra weight.

So now I have this Frankenstein RC with a low punch to save the metal diff's that have chineseium internal gears. I fear off-road bashing because of the fragility of the diffs

If I could do it all over again, I would have saved for a 6s vehicle.

 

[Dales396lt4]

I upgraded to a 6s power system in my K4SV2. I broke more axles than I can count and more differentials than I can count. I continue to go through slipper clutches like crazy. I still run that set up, but only on 4s. It’s a great truck with that system. It just took a long time to get it sorted out i.e. better axles better shocks better differentials oh and not running it on 6S. and to find the right gearing.

 

[Lethalcobra2k3]

This so true. I started with a 3s Granite. I put in the 6s Spektrum system and have paid dearly for going down this path. The plastic axles get torn up almost every pack on 6s, and every other pack on 4s. I upgraded to metal spur gear with aluminum clutch discs, and it does hold the power, but the output shaft on the slipper breaks often. The next point of failure is the upgraded metal differential. I was even paying a premium for the ultra rare EXB CNC metal diffs that are now out of production. Next you will start to strip wheel hubs on 4s and 6s. Upgraded from 14mm hub to 17mm hub and that worked. But the next failure point is the internal gears in the differential in the silicone fluid inside the diff, or you break the output shaft. Then the extra weight of the 2050kv motor bent up the motor mount. Spent $$$ on M2C racing motor mount and chassis brace to save my metal spur and pinions.

I upgraded to Kraton 4s arms/hubs/CVD 's, but then had to upgrade to the big rock chassis and body. Now at this point Kraton shocks were needed $$$ to handle the extra weight.

So now I have this Frankenstein RC with a low punch to save the metal diff's that have chineseium internal gears. I fear off-road bashing because of the fragility of the diffs

If I could do it all over again, I would have saved for a 6s vehicle.

Im buying a 3d scanner and Im going to start making my own metal cvd’s and Im thinking of making new diff housings that hold 6s components but have 3s mounting holes. I also want to use the cnc to make a metal chassis just a hair larger with mounting holes for the spektrum 150A esc and have a bit of room for a center diff setup. I have a kraton 6s v5 but I think that 6s electronics run on a 1/10 scale would just be a riot. Its for novelty bashers, not practical enthusiasts. I figured if I make my own parts, I can do it for others cheaper too

 

[slick2500]

Im buying a 3d scanner and Im going to start making my own metal cvd’s and Im thinking of making new diff housings that hold 6s components but have 3s mounting holes. I also want to use the cnc to make a metal chassis just a hair larger with mounting holes for the spektrum 150A esc and have a bit of room for a center diff setup. I have a kraton 6s v5 but I think that 6s electronics run on a 1/10 scale would just be a riot. Its for novelty bashers, not practical enthusiasts. I figured if I make my own parts, I can do it for others cheaper too

Just tossing this out there but there is a reason no one makes a chassis for these rigs.

 

[Lethalcobra2k3]

Just tossing this out there but there is a reason no one makes a chassis for these rigs.

What would that reason be?

 

[slick2500]

What would that reason be?

$$$

 

[Lethalcobra2k3]

$$$

Oh, if Im making them myself, the cost is just the chunk of metal and running autocad. And once I write the program its repeated by placing a slab of metal in the cnc and pushing run

 

[slick2500]

Oh, if Im making them myself, the cost is just the chunk of metal and running autocad. And once I write the program its repeated by placing a slab of metal in the cnc and pushing run

And your time and the cost of running the machine.

 

[Lethalcobra2k3]

And your time and the cost of running the machine.

Well even if I just build a decent aluminum one for myself with integrated bracing to stop bending it will be worth it to avoid the wrenching of swapping over everything if I crack the plastic on the OEM chassis more than once. The bits for aluminum arent that expensive and I could make a few dozen easy before sharpening or replacing it.