Outcast 4s driveshaft issue…

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Velodromed

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Granite
  3. Kraton 6s
  4. Kraton 4s
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Anyone having similar issues with the 4s driveshaft outdrive at the rear differential? How are y’all keeping the grub screw from backing out/stripping? I’ve tried using superglue as I would loctite, but it doesn’t hold. Thanks.

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You could try this thread lock made for plastic:

Vibra-TITE 213 VC-3 Threadmate Threadlocker, -65 to 165 Degree F, 5mL Tube, Red https://a.co/d/cM1L0lV
I heard of that weeks ago then promptly forgot about it. Thanks for the reminder as I want to try it out 👍
Might’ve been somewhere on here I saw this being discussed. I think someone tried using a big shrink wrap tube over that hub to lock the screw in…?
The grub recesses into the plastic part so it wouldn’t help. I even use longer grubs, 5mm. That’s a thought though, maybe 7mm grubs would work with marine shrink wrap…
 
I heard of that weeks ago then promptly forgot about it. Thanks for the reminder as I want to try it out 👍

The grub recesses into the plastic part so it wouldn’t help. I even use longer grubs, 5mm. That’s a thought though, maybe 7mm grubs would work with marine shrink wrap…
That's an interesting thought. Not sure how much clearance you have around those driveshafts, but if I were you i might try using an extra long grub screw (one that protrudes out from the plastic just a bit) and then wrap it all in a layer or two of gorilla tape or something similar. I feel like it would be hard for the screw to back out with something sticky pressing down on it.

I had a similar issue on my tekno with an exposed drive pin that kept self-ejecting, the gorilla tape was the ugly but sure fix for holding the drive pin in. No more issues since.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/hector_fisher-builds-a-sct410-3-and-stuff.55951/post-815933
 
This is where I saw it:


Is that the same issue you’re having? I’m thinking maybe not… different screw.
I think he’s addressing the retaining pin.
Man, there at the end is a perfect example of how NOT to lube the diff during reassembly! Good grief he slathered it on like bbq sauce 😂 just bare minimum rubbed into the ring gear is enough, otherwise dust infiltration turns it into a gunked up mess.
That's an interesting thought. Not sure how much clearance you have around those driveshafts, but if I were you i might try using an extra long grub screw (one that protrudes out from the plastic just a bit) and then wrap it all in a layer or two of gorilla tape or something similar. I feel like it would be hard for the screw to back out with something sticky pressing down on it.

I had a similar issue on my tekno with an exposed drive pin that kept self-ejecting, the gorilla tape was the ugly but sure fix for holding the drive pin in. No more issues since.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/hector_fisher-builds-a-sct410-3-and-stuff.55951/post-815933
I think I’ll just put a second, short 2-3mm grub in after the first one to lock it. See if that works. At least parts are in stock. I ordered a couple new outdrives for 18 bucks and they’ll be here in 5-7 days. Meanwhile, I trimmed up the inside of the old one with an exacto blade and crammed it on. Hopefully it holds for the next week.
 
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You could try this thread lock made for plastic:

Vibra-TITE 213 VC-3 Threadmate Threadlocker, -65 to 165 Degree F, 5mL Tube, Red https://a.co/d/cM1L0lV
I’m trying this out finally. Thanks for the suggestion! I’m going to try it on regular screws as well.
 
Man, there at the end is a perfect example of how NOT to lube the diff during reassembly! Good grief he slathered it on like bbq sauce 😂 just bare minimum rubbed into the ring gear is enough, otherwise dust infiltration turns it into a gunked up mess.
If some is good, more's better! :LOL: Just like Tylenol!
Just kiddin', yeah that seems like it's going to be a disaster during diff rebuilds. Lotta grease.
 
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