Mojave Alignment promblems possibly from factory?

[RyanC1332]

So over the weekend when I was putting the scorched fenders on when I had the Mojave on it’s size the right side tires were straight but the left side was turned out a lot it then dawned on me how every time I tried to use the trim to get the truck to go straight it wouldn’t it just end up going right after some time turning the trim is this normal for them to have that bad of a alignment problem where the one tire is turned so much while the other is straight? I thought about re doing the turnbuckles just haven’t had time to do it. Any thoughts?

 

[SrC]

Wheel alignment is always all jacked up out the box. Nothing new. RTR models are unfortunately NOT quite RTR.
Start sorting it all out. Is what is. With every Arrma I ever had QC is horrible. But once you bless them with your own 2 hands first, they are awesome models. And one must consider Arrma's price point and they are made in China with unskilled slave labor and poor working environments, very fast paced production. Nothing new with most any China goods. What can you expect? Most RTRs are this way.
If you don't understand doing wheel alignments, both front and rear done together, search out videos and search around AF for help.
Need to understand Camber, Caster and Front Toe fundamentals, and how to adjust them. Done right , they drive way better. Tires will wear better.

 

[Dan B.]

They come with a lot of toe out, and should have some. It just looks weird when you put one tire straight and see the other one pointing off in the outboard direction so much. Mojave has about 3° toe out, so if you point one tire straight, the other is 6°out. You can dial it back if you want, but turn in will suffer when you start getting near 0°.

 

[RyanC1332]

They come with a lot of toe out, and should have some. It just looks weird when you put one tire straight and see the other one pointing off in the outboard direction so much. Mojave has about 3° toe out, so if you point one tire straight, the other is 6°out. You can dial it back if you want, but turn in will suffer when you start getting near 0°.

When I was looking at the plastic pieces the turnbuckles screw into the left side had a lot more thread showing on the piece that connects to the knuckle part compared to the right but the inner park was the same on both sides but even with tightening that piece it would seem to bring that toe out even worse lol I tried finding videos and stuff on here but nothing really seemed to answer my question on it I guess I’ll try what I can or get used to trying to be gentle on the steering at speed so I don’t fish tail and flip it lol

 

[Saladshooter]

When I was looking at the plastic pieces the turnbuckles screw into the left side had a lot more thread showing on the piece that connects to the knuckle part compared to the right but the inner park was the same on both sides but even with tightening that piece it would seem to bring that toe out even worse lol I tried finding videos and stuff on here but nothing really seemed to answer my question on it I guess I’ll try what I can or get used to trying to be gentle on the steering at speed so I don’t fish tail and flip it lol

I highly recommend learning how to properly adjust your car. You can remove and tighten the turnbuckles so they are tight and equal put back on the vehicle, then rotate them out until they hit the desired amount of camber or toe. Most of us would just adjust the turnbuckles while on the vehicle, there may be a variance in threads showing but it shouldn't make a difference in getting the proper angles. I'm adding a video below that might help:

 

[CosmoM3]

Most of my Horizon Hobby RTRs have their alignment out of whack, particularly the front toe adjustment. This is almost to be expected with Losi and ARRMA.

 

[SrC]

They come with a lot of toe out, and should have some. It just looks weird when you put one tire straight and see the other one pointing off in the outboard direction so much. Mojave has about 3° toe out, so if you point one tire straight, the other is 6°out. You can dial it back if you want, but turn in will suffer when you start getting near 0°.

Ackerman setting sometimes solves that with Turn In. Tracking gets sloppy and vague with too much toe out. You are scrubbing off speed while you are at it. Castor angle also plays into this with turning. Tires wear like crap with extreme toe out. I have barely 1 degree Toe out. Definitely don't run Negative or Zero, for off-roading or what's "out the box". Out the box is always jacked up anyway. Fact. Toe is not even matched L-R from the factory. I can handle about 1 deg. toe Out Just me. The Mojo, Steering power slides effectively enough if you have Fr and R diffs dialed properly. Pivot ball front suspensions ( Arrma) generally have extreme ST "Push" anyway. By design. Most PB setups are this way. By contrast to C-Hub designed Front ends. Is what it is. Learn to drive it this way. To simply dial it out with extreme Toe out never worked for me. The trade off wasn't worth it IMHO.
Running more Negative Fr end Wheel Camber if anything, is way better than running Extreme Toe out. For better Turn-In.

 

[CosmoM3]

Ackerman setting sometimes solves that. Tracking gets sloppy and vague with too much toe out. Castor angle also plays into this with turning. Tires wear like crap with extreme toe out. I have barely 1 degree Toe out. Definitely don't run Negative or Zero, or what out the box has. Out the box is always jacked up anyway. Fact. Toe is not even matched L-R from the factory. I can handle about 1 deg. toe Out Just me. The Mojo, Steering power slides effectively enough if you have Fr and R diffs dialed properly. Pivot ball front suspensions ( Arrma) generally have extreme ST "Push" anyway. To simply dial it out with extreme Toe out never worked for me. The trade off wasn't worth it IMHO.

I'm gonna have to agree with you there. Based on what the alignment looks like out of the box, I typically set my front toe closer to zero.

The worst suspension (out of the box) that I have ever seen is the Losi Hammer Rey with the terrible bump steer issue from the front lower pivot ball and lack of camber and toe adjustments out of the box. Kind of unacceptable for a $500+ RTR because there is no way to fix the issue out of the box.

 

[SrC]

+1
I must admit.... The Arrma 6s line is impressive for the simple fact that "Bump Steer" is almost dead on good where it is. And only because they are Pivot ball setups designed fairly well. Some brands are better than others. But I've seen better with Race Kit brands.
Little if any exists with the 6s line., "Some" marginal bump steer has its benefits as long as the Roll Center is good.
I prefer C-Hub front ends if I have the choice. i.e. Tekno.