Kraton Best Center Diff Weight OIL? Kraton

[AustinKraton]

Hey Guys,

Whats the best weight Center Diff oil / grease to cut down on the front tire ballooning and 'diffing' out?

This is for general bashing.

 

[L0stB1t]

There's no "best" but anything from 200k will vastly reduce front ballooning. I like 300k in mine but most here use 500k, and some even like 1m.

 

[olds97_lss]

200k-500k seems to be the norm to help keep front tire unloading under control. Thinner if your racing/driving at a track.

 

[AustinKraton]

Thanks guys! I'll likely try 500 K!!

 

[martysmith223]

Thanks guys! I'll likely try 500 K!!

hey get the 1m also it's been my favorite so far iv been swapping back and fwd the 1m definitely is the biggest improvement and after it warms up you still get some center diff action it helps to have more than one center diff on hand with different weights it's easy to swap so you can try a new weight every battery and really see what's best for you

 

[olds97_lss]

Thanks guys! I'll likely try 500 K!!

I run that in my outcast on 6S, but thinking of dropping to 300 to calm the wheelies a bit. Something I'll do when it's time to change out the bearings. When I was on 4S, 500K was fine. It would wheelie, but not nearly as much as it does now that I'm running 6S.

 

[Notorious J]

hey get the 1m also it's been my favorite so far iv been swapping back and fwd the 1m definitely is the biggest improvement and after it warms up you still get some center diff action it helps to have more than one center diff on hand with different weights it's easy to swap so you can try a new weight every battery and really see what's best for you

+1 on a second center dif, assembled and ready to go. Both my cups are Hot Racing aluminum, one with 500k and one with 1M. It's an Outcast, so when I finally develop the courage to drop the 1M in, should make for some interesting "what did you break today" content?

 

[Mr.Duke]

I run 500k in a v3 Talion and 800k in the Outcast.

The mixture to get 800k is 70% 1M 30% 500k and I only went up because I added an additional pound and a half of weight to the Outcast which caused an increase in center diff slip.

Since silicone manufacturers have a big gap between viscositys from 500k to 1M, you can mix up anything in between by using this calculator to get the ratios and final cst count to where you want them.

https://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Mixtures.html

 

[Grumpy Old Man RC]

I run 500k in a v3 Talion and 800k in the Outcast.

The mixture to get 800k is 70% 1M 30% 500k and I only went up because I added an additional pound and a half of weight to the Outcast which caused an increase in center diff slip.

Since silicone manufacturers have a big gap between viscositys from 500k to 1M, you can mix up anything in between by using this calculator to get the ratios and final cst count to where you want them.

https://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Mixtures.html

Thanks for this link.

 

[AustinKraton]

So what would the weight be if you just ran straight GREASE?

Also what effects do you see with heavier Diff Oil? More power to rear wheels?

 

[Mr.Duke]

So what would the weight be if you just ran straight GREASE?

Also what effects do you see with heavier Diff Oil? More power to rear wheels?

In order to know the cst equivalent viscosity rating of the grease, you would have to pull up the technical data specification sheet from the grease manufacturer.

 

[olds97_lss]

So what would the weight be if you just ran straight GREASE?

Also what effects do you see with heavier Diff Oil? More power to rear wheels?

It would likely act as an almost open diff as grease gets out of the way and stays out of the way, so you would end up with all your power going to the front. Maybe if you really packed it in there it would react different. I just know over all the years of RC, you would usually get an RTR and it had grease in the cup, which acted like nothing was in the cup.

Heavier oil sends more power to the rear when accelerating, more to the front when braking. Unless you run a locked center, the tires with the least grip is where some of the power always bleeds to.

 

[Lazy Bushman]

I loaded a centre diff last night with 500k for the first time and the stuff is like paste. I can’t imagine how thick 1m is. The 500k is significantly tighter when turning the diff compared to stock

 

[olds97_lss]

I loaded a centre diff last night with 500k for the first time and the stuff is like paste. I can’t imagine how thick 1m is. The 500k is significantly tighter when turning the diff compared to stock

Yeah, 1M is ridiculous. I added a bit of that to some 500K in the center diff in my savage flux as 500K wasn't quite enough. I basically scooped some out of the bottle with a screwdriver, then smeared it into the cup. lol!

 

[Lazy Bushman]

I would squeeze the 500 and cut the blob off with a knife. I then screwed it down with only 2 screws and the original gasket and hand wound it several time and have left it over night sitting up right. I will replace the gasket and tighten it up properly today

 

[martysmith223]

+1 on a second center dif, assembled and ready to go. Both my cups are Hot Racing aluminum, one with 500k and one with 1M. It's an Outcast, so when I finally develop the courage to drop the 1M in, should make for some interesting "what did you break today" content?

I don't have a noto yet but I'm gonna build one to see what all the fuss is about lol ..I know it's hard to control so it may be fun to try something challenging to drive .... either build it or buy a roller havnt made my mind up yet ...I seen one for 300 used complete with extra parts may just buy that one has extra parts also and 2 3s batteries

 

[DaedalEVE]

Hey Guys,

Whats the best weight Center Diff oil / grease to cut down on the front tire ballooning and 'diffing' out?

This is for general bashing.

I just got a v4 Kraton, and after doing a lot of research I decided to just go with the 20,000,000 cst from traxxas.
From what I have seen and read it’ll basically lock the center, but unlike a true locker there is still the slightest bit of play, to keep from breaking anything.
I know it’s 100k stock, but that seems way too light from everything I’ve seen and heard. Tons of people are talking 200k, 500k, 1M.... or even 20M.
I was able to get the 20M (which appears to be sell out fast) so that’s what I’m doing.
Heavy def seems the way to go.

 

[Lazy Bushman]

The stock is actually pretty good. The heavier oil does help with power bleeding to the front to be sure. I don’t think I could go 20m as for me, I would find it too hard to work with. I haven’t seen it but I would expect the consistency to be similar to semi-cured concrete

 

[DaedalEVE]

The stock is actually pretty good. The heavier oil does help with power bleeding to the front to be sure. I don’t think I could go 20m as for me, I would find it too hard to work with. I haven’t seen it but I would expect the consistency to be similar to semi-cured concrete

Na, it’s not bad at all. It seems to be like a silicone putty. Very easy to work with. You just shove it in there.
The idea is to lock the center, but not give it a “hard lock”. It still has a bit of play... so the diff fluid WILL move rather than break a dog-bone or something.

That’s for an X-Maxx Center Diff, but same rules apply.

 

[Rcjer]

I just got a v4 Kraton, and after doing a lot of research I decided to just go with the 20,000,000 cst from traxxas.
From what I have seen and read it’ll basically lock the center, but unlike a true locker there is still the slightest bit of play, to keep from breaking anything.
I know it’s 100k stock, but that seems way too light from everything I’ve seen and heard. Tons of people are talking 200k, 500k, 1M.... or even 20M.
I was able to get the 20M (which appears to be sell out fast) so that’s what I’m doing.
Heavy def seems the way to go.

I run 100K in the center 50k front and 20k rear and it rips bro. But everyone has there own style when it comes to the riffs. Therea no right or wrong answer. Let me know how that 20 mil works in the center.