Kraton Center Diff Question

[RCKYE99]

Hello everyone, today I was doing my first diff maintenance on my Kraton 6s V5 I did the front and back diffs no problem but the center one felt loose connected to the front driveshaft. I pulled it apart and it was completely dry, no oil in the diff at all and there was dirt all over the gears and looks like a Little Rock even got in there. I have only had the car for a couple months I have never opened the diffs before in this one. Then I noticed (in really bad at terminology please excuse) the metal thing from the diff case fell out, I remember vividly on my other diffs that thing was locked in there. Is it supposed to come out? What do I do now? I think that was the problem since that was the area I could wiggle with the diff still attached back and forth and I could see inside the diff a little. It’s unfortunate it came like this I expected there to be some oil in it or maybe that peice broke? I don’t really know that’s why I’m asking I attached some pictures so you can see if it’s supposed to do that and if it what do I do to get it back so it won’t wiggle. Thank you! (Edit I had to hold it in there for the pictures so it wouldn’t fall it since as soon as you tip it over it falls out)

 

[Garcbomber]

The plastic center diffs are expendable for RTRs, that steel insert separates over time from heat and the fluid will gradually leak out.

Upgrade to an Arrma Aluminum cup.

 

[RCKYE99]

The plastic center diffs are expendable for RTRs, that steel insert separates over time from heat and the fluid will gradually leak out.

Upgrade to an Arrma Aluminum cup.

Thank you! That’s great to know, do I need any screws or any other parts for the aluminum to fit or is it a quick fix? And just to confirm you are talking about ARA220050?

 

[lee82gx]

Thank you! That’s great to know, do I need any screws or any other parts for the aluminum to fit or is it a quick fix? And just to confirm you are talking about ARA220050?

If your gears are in good condition then yes. It’s a good time to check the input cups too. I’d also recommend getting some thread lock if you don’t already have it.

 

[QLynxer]

Thank you! That’s great to know, do I need any screws or any other parts for the aluminum to fit or is it a quick fix? And just to confirm you are talking about ARA220050?

Yup that’s the correct part number for the non lsd diff. It’ll come with all the screws you need. Since the screws are going into metal diff case, you’ll need to use the blue locktite and let it cure for 24hrs before you run the car.

Check to make sure all the gears from original diff are in good shape and then you can reinstall them. With the metal diff case, your gonna leave out the 4 tomb stone shape pieces since they’re not needed when using metal diff case.

The center diff with its thicker fluid gets very hot so it benefits greatly from using a metal diff case.

 

[SirCrashALot]

"The center diff with its thicker fluid gets very hot so it benefits greatly from using a metal diff case."

The thinner the diff fluid, the more diff action. Meaning rpm difference between front and rear.
If you are hard on the throttle, the diff will bleed more torque to the front. Causing the center to work hard and eventually melt and break. Exactly what happened here.
like already said: get the aluminium diff case and use thicker fluid. How thick depends on your preferences and driving style. 500k is generally ok on 6s rigs. It makes for more equal power front and rear. While being thick enough to allow some diff action on full power.
I run 50k/500k/50k in my Mojaves.

Edit: Don't use too thick of a center diff fluid.
For bashing you do need some diff action to protect the drive train.
For example: If you jump a rig, the wheels on the end that touches down first come to a sudden stop while the other end may still spin. The center diff takes that sudden stop. So a rigid center diff will cost you other drive train parts.

 

[parcou]

@RCKYE99 Due to center diff heat for my 6S rigs...I do like to go with Arrma aluminum center diffs... The main reason for me is that I live in the South, so summers are HOT, so it is tough on the rig.

 

[Saltystevo]

"The center diff with its thicker fluid gets very hot so it benefits greatly from using a metal diff case."

The thinner the diff fluid, the more diff action. Meaning rpm difference between front and rear.
If you are hard on the throttle, the diff will bleed more torque to the front. Causing the center to work hard and eventually melt and break. Exactly what happened here.
like already said: get the aluminium diff case and use thicker fluid. How thick depends on your preferences and driving style. 500k is generally ok on 6s rigs. It makes for more equal power front and rear. While being thick enough to allow some diff action on full power.
I run 50k/500k/50k in my Mojaves.

Edit: Don't use too thick of a center diff fluid.
For bashing you do need some diff action to protect the drive train.
For example: If you jump a rig, the wheels on the end that touches down first come to a sudden stop while the other end may still spin. The center diff takes that sudden stop. So a rigid center diff will cost you other drive train parts.

Are all the metal 6s center duffs the same for all gems? Where can I find?

 

[SirCrashALot]

Are all the metal 6s center duffs the same for all gems? Where can I find?

ARA220050 for all BLX diffs.f/m/r
.