Mojave Biffed up my pretty vitavon!!

[MFM]

I’m still working out the kinks and finding best gearing / wheel option now that we put our big boy pants on and tossed in the huge 2028 soda can and wallet sized esc. I wanted to run her sensored since I installed the Bluetooth link but the damn harness was not long enough! Fml. Purchase an adapter and spiced away since it does not give me a female to female so I could connect the two harnesses that came w the combo!! Check! All set. Make a few passes trimming her out, messing w the settings in B-link and the front diff locked up! Just as I was ready to drop the hammer!! That was it!! Tossed her in the van and beat the piss out of my max6 super stretched talion. Damn I love the way she takes a good pounding!! Lol.
finally getting around to pulling the front diff knowing I should serviced them after the power transplant but I just needed to feel that powa! Lol. This is what we find!!

Damn hot racing diff case!!! Small screw backed out and made a mess of my vitavon bulkhead!! Was a real PITA getting the diff out!!
No sweat. At least my ring and input gears were fine. So filed her as smooth as i Could get in there and grabbed a spare diff I had. Freshened up and ready for action tomorrow hopefully!!

Turned to my kids play room after they passed out and got her repaired! Lol.

 

[olds97_lss]

Are those splits/lines/cracks supposed to be there on the lower portion of the bulkhead near the rear hinge pin brace? I see the cracks from the top side photo's, but no cracks from the bottom side photo's.

To keep my diff screws from backing out on my arrma 2 piece alloy cups, I had to use red loctite. I just know when I have to service them that a torch will need to be involved. Even orange didn't hold for more than a single bash session.

 

[MFM]

Are those splits/lines/cracks supposed to be there on the lower portion of the bulkhead near the rear hinge pin brace? I see the cracks from the top side photo's, but no cracks from the bottom side photo's.

To keep my diff screws from backing out on my arrma 2 piece alloy cups, I had to use red loctite. I just know when I have to service them that a torch will need to be involved. Even orange didn't hold for more than a single bash session.

Yep. I wondered too about those splits but apparently they help w installing and removing the cover. No cracks or splits surprisingly considering she’s been 25-30’ up!! The titanium towers are also amazing. Not beefy and bulky like the others out there.
I use LT as well but this diff has been put thru 60+ packs since 1650kv then half a pack on 1100kv. It was well overdue for some Svc lol. I also think some diff juice got in the holes last time they were done. I imagine that could helped it fail.

 

[jondilly1974]

Yep. I wondered too about those splits but apparently they help w installing and removing the cover. No cracks or splits surprisingly considering she’s been 25-30’ up!! The titanium towers are also amazing. Not beefy and bulky like the others out there.
I use LT as well but this diff has been put thru 60+ packs since 1650kv then half a pack on 1100kv. It was well overdue for some Svc lol. I also think some diff juice got in the holes last time they were done. I imagine that could helped it fail.

Yep that’s the downside to metal cups. The holes need to be clean and dry for TL to be effective.

 

[MFM]

I almost always get the juice everywhere lol. Damn sun gear will fall off as I’m putting it together lol. It’s always a mess! I usually take 2mm Allen and piece of paper towel and poke the holes clean.. it still manages to get in there lol. I like the Arrma aluminum cups now. After this I’ve only got one hot racing diff case left in the rear of the Mojave. All other rigs have the red or black arrma. The black in is nice cuz it’s only one piece.

 

[IrieWheeler]

I haven't got my trucks yet but have already decided to replace all composite rear diff cases with the aluminum Arrma units or the Hot Racing. The composite cups will continue to eat shims regardless as long as the bottom of the cup us cupped/concave in my humble opinion. Glad there's replacements for the plastic cups but can't believe something hasn't been done about it with all the comotion of blown diffs all over da place. Maybe I'm too baked or over-thinking it from my research and runaway autism?

Can't recall the channel and can't find it again on YT but a British man did a great video of shimming the input gear and diff/ring gear and getting it all adjusted optimally in the case.

 

[MFM]

Once u see how the mesh is made and where shims are optimal you’ll be a pro at it! But yes my bulkheads and diff cases are nice and tight. I think I only had to use one shim ring gear side after upgrading to aluminum whereas I was adding 2,3 maybe 4 to get the same result!
mitch from m2c took time on the phone w me and gave me a tutorial on breaking them in and rechecking and if needed adding shims after break in! I use a cordless drill now after my mesh is good then I add a shim if needed.

 

[IrieWheeler]

Got this outwardly crazy idea from RC Guy Garage to use Permatex Orange silicon ceramic brake lubricant in the case for the input gear/ring gear so picked some up to try. Have you ever used or considered using this stuff? From what I gather it looks like a skookum application for the stuff. Thanks