Big Rock BLX100, stock cap pack necessary?

[Hector_Fisher]

Didn't find any conclusive threads about this. Are the in-line cap packs on the blx100 necessary? I understand their purpose (they help manage power transients to the esc), but do they actually make a difference for the 3s line? I'd rather just do a cap pack delete than try to reattach.

As an option, after I do the delete, i could swap esc's with my son's granite if the cap packs were necessary. He only ever runs his granite on 2s at 50-75% power max.

 

[Robbbbbb66]

Didn't find any conclusive threads about this. Are the in-line cap packs on the blx100 necessary? I understand their purpose (they help manage power transients to the esc), but do they actually make a difference for the 3s line? I'd rather just do a cap pack delete than try to reattach.

As an option, after I do the delete, i could swap esc's with my son's granite if the cap packs were necessary. He only ever runs his granite on 2s at 50-75% power max.

View attachment 223263

The wire on my spektrum 150amp broke and it still runs fine.

It might be fine if you don’t resolder it on.

 

[Exc3l]

If it were me I would peel back on the heat shrink over the cap pack and see how easy it is to re-attach it first

 

[SrC]

Didn't find any conclusive threads about this. Are the in-line cap packs on the blx100 necessary? I understand their purpose (they help manage power transients to the esc), but do they actually make a difference for the 3s line? I'd rather just do a cap pack delete than try to reattach.

As an option, after I do the delete, i could swap esc's with my son's granite if the cap packs were necessary. He only ever runs his granite on 2s at 50-75% power max.

View attachment 223263

If you re going through the trouble of removing it, Just Re-solder it. Is it necessary? Probably not. And who knows for sure.
Because there are already Embedded Caps mounted on the PCB. The piggy back Cap pack , was probably there as a Band-Aid add-on, that Arrma/Spektrum tossed in during testing, post design ad-hoc. Stupid that it is there for a 3s rig. Probably the ESC's PCB is cheapishly made IMHO. Spektrum stuff.

 

[Tex Koder]

I believe that cap pack is to smooth out the voltage from when you punch the throttle..
or coming down from a possible bad landing(and still on the throttle).
Just to protect the ESC electronics...

 

[Hector_Fisher]

The wire on my spektrum 150amp broke and it still runs fine.

It might be fine if you don’t resolder it on.

This broke the circuit and killed power. So I'd have to fix it if I want to keep running!

If you re going through the trouble of removing it, Just Re-solder it. Is it necessary? Probably not. And who knows for sure.
Because there are already Embedded Caps mounted on the PCB. The piggy back Cap pack , was probably there as a Band-Aid add-on, that Arrma/Spektrum tossed in during testing, post design ad-hoc. Stupid that it is there for a 3s rig. Probably the ESC's PCB is cheapishly made IMHO. Spektrum stuff.

I don't disagree with this. Turns out the esc doesn't work even if I "reconnect the circuit" by hand. Something else going on. But I don't have much desire to trouble shoot the stock electrics. I'll see if horizon will send me ANOTHER esc. You'll think they'll do a second if it's still under warranty??? Otherwise I'll probably look at the extra 130a firma I have or buying a max10 sct.

If it were me I would peel back on the heat shrink over the cap pack and see how easy it is to re-attach it first

Upon further inspection, I noticed the cap packs were damaged on the bottom side. Probably from repeated hits on landing. I had tightened up the cabling but apparently not enough. Pretty sure it's been like that a while though, so I'm not sure if that's the sole reason it's not working even when i remade the circuit by hand. Think the esc might have blown and taken the rx with it.

 

[slick2500]

For what it's worth my first gen BLX100 esc without the cap pack is still working just fine after over 3 years.

 

[GRC]

Mine snapped in the same place in the about 6 different BLX100's. Others in the forum also snap in the same spot. I kept buying them because they're really cheap from Jenny's RC. I kept tried different ways to prevent the joint from snapping again.

My latest effort has been holding up. First wrap the cap pack where it meets the wires tightly with electrical tape. Several wraps around. You're basically making a cast so that joint can't bend. I also used some foam tape around the cap pack and on top of the servo, so the cap pack doesn't get smacked by the servo.

But that wasn't enough, eventually it snapped again. You have to stop the up and down bouncing movement of the ESC to battery wire. I tried locking the wire down with various methods, but it doesn't work. The ESC wire also needs room to shift back and forth when the battery bounces around, or it ends up getting yanked apart. One time it took exactly two jumps to yank a new ESC wire apart.

A simple rubber band did the trick. I have it looped around the center brace. Looping it around the body mount post also works. It's not strapping down the wire. It's loose, but short enough to limit the up and down bounce. The ESC wire can shift back and forth as needed without yanking anything while the cap pack can't bounce around. I can't remember exactly how long this has lasted, but it's been several months.

If this ends up breaking again, I'll probably also go for the Firma 130a. Jenny's RC has them at a decent price with IC5 connectors ready to go.
https://jennysrc.com/collections/lo...mite-smart-130a-fuze-brushless-firma-los03027

 

[Velodromed]

Mine snapped in the same place in the about 6 different BLX100's. Others in the forum also snap in the same spot. I kept buying them because they're really cheap from Jenny's RC. I kept tried different ways to prevent the joint from snapping again.

My latest effort has been holding up. First wrap the cap pack where it meets the wires tightly with electrical tape. Several wraps around. You're basically making a cast so that joint can't bend. I also used some foam tape around the cap pack and on top of the servo, so the cap pack doesn't get smacked by the servo.

But that wasn't enough, eventually it snapped again. You have to stop the up and down bouncing movement of the ESC to battery wire. I tried locking the wire down with various methods, but it doesn't work. The ESC wire also needs room to shift back and forth when the battery bounces around, or it ends up getting yanked apart. One time it took exactly two jumps to yank a new ESC wire apart.

A simple rubber band did the trick. I have it looped around the center brace. Looping it around the body mount post also works. It's not strapping down the wire. It's loose, but short enough to limit the up and down bounce. The ESC wire can shift back and forth as needed without yanking anything while the cap pack can't bounce around. I can't remember exactly how long this has lasted, but it's been several months.

If this ends up breaking again, I'll probably also go for the Firma 130a. Jenny's RC has them at a decent price with IC5 connectors ready to go.
https://jennysrc.com/collections/lo...mite-smart-130a-fuze-brushless-firma-los03027

View attachment 224196

Nice idea! I’m running the 130a on 3 of my cars and it is great. Of course I don’t jump as high as you do. I do have some spectacular crashes from the Heights I do jump though

 

[GRC]

For what it's worth my first gen BLX100 esc without the cap pack is still working just fine after over 3 years.

I wish those first gen BLX100's were still available. I noticed Duperdash is still running it in his 3 year old Granite.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

Mine snapped in the same place in the about 6 different BLX100's. Others in the forum also snap in the same spot. I kept buying them because they're really cheap from Jenny's RC. I kept tried different ways to prevent the joint from snapping again.

My latest effort has been holding up. First wrap the cap pack where it meets the wires tightly with electrical tape. Several wraps around. You're basically making a cast so that joint can't bend. I also used some foam tape around the cap pack and on top of the servo, so the cap pack doesn't get smacked by the servo.

But that wasn't enough, eventually it snapped again. You have to stop the up and down bouncing movement of the ESC to battery wire. I tried locking the wire down with various methods, but it doesn't work. The ESC wire also needs room to shift back and forth when the battery bounces around, or it ends up getting yanked apart. One time it took exactly two jumps to yank a new ESC wire apart.

A simple rubber band did the trick. I have it looped around the center brace. Looping it around the body mount post also works. It's not strapping down the wire. It's loose, but short enough to limit the up and down bounce. The ESC wire can shift back and forth as needed without yanking anything while the cap pack can't bounce around. I can't remember exactly how long this has lasted, but it's been several months.

If this ends up breaking again, I'll probably also go for the Firma 130a. Jenny's RC has them at a decent price with IC5 connectors ready to go.
https://jennysrc.com/collections/lo...mite-smart-130a-fuze-brushless-firma-los03027

View attachment 224196

Unfortunately for me I don't have a center brace like that. The FWD end of the stock 3s trucks are pretty bare for places to tie down the cables.

Ive got a spare 130a firma, but I'm pretty sure I've read in a few places that they aren't as durable for bit hits and landings. My big rock is my skate park truck, so it takes big hits. So far, I've been pretty impressed with the abuse it's taken from sloppy jumps and ham-fisted driving (gears and drive train aside).

Part of me feels like it might be better to stick with the cheaper blx100, and just replace as needed. I've currently swapped out my son's blx100 from his granite and I'm taping "cushions" around the cap pack to reduce the strain.

Nice idea! I’m running the 130a on 3 of my cars and it is great. Of course I don’t jump as high as you do. I do have some spectacular crashes from the Heights I do jump though

I do like the overhead from the 130a esc's. Do you feel like the 130a firma's are as durable as the blx100 (impact wise)?

 

[GRC]

Unfortunately for me I don't have a center brace like that. The FWD end of the stock 3s trucks are pretty bare for places to tie down the cables.

Ive got a spare 130a firma, but I'm pretty sure I've read in a few places that they aren't as durable for bit hits and landings.

Before I had the center brace, I looped the rubber band around the body mount post.
Damn, it will be a shame if 130a doesn't hold up. There aren't many other well priced options.

 

[Velodromed]

Unfortunately for me I don't have a center brace like that. The FWD end of the stock 3s trucks are pretty bare for places to tie down the cables.

Ive got a spare 130a firma, but I'm pretty sure I've read in a few places that they aren't as durable for bit hits and landings. My big rock is my skate park truck, so it takes big hits. So far, I've been pretty impressed with the abuse it's taken from sloppy jumps and ham-fisted driving (gears and drive train aside).

Part of me feels like it might be better to stick with the cheaper blx100, and just replace as needed. I've currently swapped out my son's blx100 from his granite and I'm taping "cushions" around the cap pack to reduce the strain.

I do like the overhead from the 130a esc's. Do you feel like the 130a firma's are as durable as the blx100 (impact wise)?

They have been absolutely solid and I’ve been running all three for close to eight+ months. I’m not gentle on my cars either, kinda beat the living crud out of them. I have one in my granite which is my skate park car and I do send it high and far there. I have had many roof, tail and lawn dart landings without issue. I also have one in my vortex hybrid Thing and it gets the most use and abuse out of all my cars. So for me the 130a has been dependable.

I want to make sure we’re talking about the same ESC. Technically mine is a spectrum smart 130 amp ESC. It’s programmable also.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

Before I had the center brace, I looped the rubber band around the body mount post.
Damn, it will be a shame if 130a doesn't hold up. There aren't many other well priced options.

That was the only reason I hadn't put my 130a esc in there. But I could be willing to try. I might run through my other blx100 first. And whatever horizon gives me for the warranty on this one.

They have been absolutely solid and I’ve been running all three for close to eight+ months. I’m not gentle on my cars either, kinda beat the living crud out of them. I have one in my granite which is my skate park car and I do send it high and far there. I have had many roof, tail and lawn dart landings without issue. I also have one in my vortex hybrid Thing and it gets the most use and abuse out of all my cars. So for me the 130a has been dependable.

I want to make sure we’re talking about the same ESC. Technically mine is a spectrum smart 130 amp ESC. It’s programmable also.

Pretty sure they're the same one. Got my from jennys. https://jennysrc.com/collections/ax...rt-spmxse1130-axi03005?variant=39553562345526
I have wanted to try running the big rock on 4s and dialing down my throttle finger! Thanks for the feedback on your experience with them.

 

[slick2500]

Before I had the center brace, I looped the rubber band around the body mount post.
Damn, it will be a shame if 130a doesn't hold up. There aren't many other well priced options.

If you don't care about the Hobbywing warranty(not that it sounds like they honor it anyway) or waiting on the slow boat from China there are a few options.
Hobbywing SC8RTR 120a
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/225...cf16554911083187139e55b4!10000015730212660!sh
2-4s
6v bec
I lied there is one option the cheap Max10 SCT 120a esc is out of stock at the moment

 

[Velodromed]

That was the only reason I hadn't put my 130a esc in there. But I could be willing to try. I might run through my other blx100 first. And whatever horizon gives me for the warranty on this one.

Pretty sure they're the same one. Got my from jennys. https://jennysrc.com/collections/ax...rt-spmxse1130-axi03005?variant=39553562345526
I have wanted to try running the big rock on 4s and dialing down my throttle finger! Thanks for the feedback on your experience with them.

Same one and same place/car that I got mine lol. I got all three when they were only around 50 bucks. I think they are 75 or more now. But yeah, very solid mine have been. I don’t run them on 4s though. I just like souping my cars up as much as possible on 3S. I recently figured out they are also programmable with the spectrum card.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

Same one and same place/car that I got mine lol. I got all three when they were only around 50 bucks. I think they are 75 or more now. But yeah, very solid mine have been. I don’t run them on 4s though. I just like souping my cars up as much as possible on 3S. I recently figured out they are also programmable with the spectrum card.

Exactly, i kick myself over and over when I remember the first time I saw those esc's listed on jennys and they were like around $45 and that I didn't pick up 2 or 3 of them. At $75. They definitely aren't worth it. Not when you could get a max10 sct usually for $85.

If you don't care about the Hobbywing warranty(not that it sounds like they honor it anyway) or waiting on the slow boat from China there are a few options.
Hobbywing SC8RTR 120a
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2255801149643837.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.13.7b763168ZedLvH&pdp_npi=2@dis!USD!US $43.20!US $43.20!!!!!@2101e9cf16554911083187139e55b4!10000015730212660!sh
2-4s
6v bec
I lied there is one option the cheap Max10 SCT 120a esc is out of stock at the moment

Do you have any experience with that esc? I usually try not to buy the cheap one cause they're usually just that: cheap. (Thinking hobbyking, banggood brand, etc). For ~$50 though, that's an enticing price. That's basically a blx100 shipped through jennys.

 

[slick2500]

Exactly, i kick myself over and over when I remember the first time I saw those esc's listed on jennys and they were like around $45 and that I didn't pick up 2 or 3 of them. At $75. They definitely aren't worth it. Not when you could get a max10 sct usually for $85.

Do you have any experience with that esc? I usually try not to buy the cheap one cause they're usually just that: cheap. (Thinking hobbyking, banggood brand, etc). For ~$50 though, that's an enticing price. That's basically a blx100 shipped through jennys.

It is a Hobbywing https://www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?id=349
It's a ready to run esc. I have one of the Max10 SCT RTR 80a escs and other than the typical cheap fans Hobbywing includes with the escs it's been great.
If it looks like a Hobbywing esc and says RTR after the model name it is a Hobbywing esc made for brands like Redcat, HSP, Exceed Rc, FS Racing ect. Most of the ready to run escs are made and designed by Hobbywing. Heck the Spektrum escs are made by Hobbywing.