Talion Building a Talion from scratch! What diffs should I get?

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Arrma RC's
  1. Outcast 4s
Hi All! Love this forum and love my new hobby!

I am building a Talion from scratch, first parts ordered are already arriving this week! I am going to go with the scorched parts carbon fibre chassis, with carbon fibre shock towers and steering rack/ackerman bar from m2c now that they have partnered with basherqueen for carbon fiber parts.

I want to keep the weight down because I want to run a 8s capable motor and esc even though I only plan to run on 6s. Maybe try an 8s speed run here and there but 4-6s for bashing and general use.

My main question is what diffs should I get? Are the EXB diffs the way to go or is it easier with the ones from earlier versions? Can I use the 8s diffs or will they not fit?

Here is the chassis and towers i bought.

https://scorchedparts.co.uk/product...a-talion-6s-v1-v4?_pos=9&_sid=e3afd7ca2&_ss=r

https://m2cracing.net/shop/shop.php#!/M2C-3304A-CARBON-TALION-SHOCK-TOWER-KIT/p/571066483

Please let me know your thoughts and suggestions as this is my first build from scratch and I am open to input from those who know more! Thank you in advance!

Mahalo,

Marshall
 
I have one of these through 10 packs in the rear of a Mojave running 3.8 bandlands without a hiccup. I'll be utilizing them moving forward after constantly breaking BLX output shafts recently. The pin issue was eliminated by using tool steel rods, but then the outputs began to fail on heavy rigs with big power. EXB will be the go to upgrade due to the larger outputs/pin diameter, just not the ARRMA price IMO. Last i checked, they were like $80 per assembly without the input gear to match...

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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805791898037.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.41.4b85569e2vb8Ol&algo_pvid=2cda17c1-df24-4923-b0ff-c03e6904b8f2&algo_exp_id=2cda17c1-df24-4923-b0ff-c03e6904b8f2-20&pdp_npi=4@dis!USD!43.12!25.87!!!315.00!!@2101e9d416944674782713616ec7d1!12000035144607573!sea!US!0!AS&curPageLogUid=2pr4KiWfRd91
 
If building from scratch I would skip the cheap Chinesium diffs and instead build EXB open diffs with the Arrma aluminum 29mm diff cups.
 
If building from scratch I would skip the cheap Chinesium diffs and instead build EXB open diffs with the Arrma aluminum 29mm diff cups.
So which of these or would either work then just change the diff cup to aluminum?

ara311066 open diff vs ara310990 lsd diff

What do you think about m2c for outdrives or other options? I want a strong drivetrain for sure but not sure whats the most reliable…

Appreciate the input, thank you!
 
LSD version but use the spacers for the open diff aluminum case for the center, optional for the front & rear. Standard EXB gearing is pretty tough. Save a couple bucks and just replace as you go. my $0.02. Good luck
 
So which of these or would either work then just change the diff cup to aluminum?

ara311066 open diff vs ara310990 lsd diff

What do you think about m2c for outdrives or other options? I want a strong drivetrain for sure but not sure whats the most reliable…

Appreciate the input, thank you!

I would still build them from parts instead of buying the complete units, it might cost more in the long run but you will have the peace and mind that they were properly assembled. I trust Arrmas assembly as far as I can throw Jason Dearden.
 
I would still build them from parts instead of buying the complete units, it might cost more in the long run but you will have the peace and mind that they were properly assembled. I trust Arrmas assembly as far as I can throw Jason Dearden.

I wonder how far you could actually toss him lol 😂🤦🏻‍♂️
 
Any suggestions for the motor/center diff mount? The stock exb one seems offly chincy and i heard you need to replace the two top screws as they strip easy.

Is the hot racing motor mount worth it?

Also, for the rear hubs and front steering blocks, is it worth it to just start with the aluminum hot racing ones or do the stock plastic ones hold up well? I know ive broken a couple on my 4s outcast, so wondering if its a good idea to just start with aluminum for a 6s rig.

Thanks again!
 
Any suggestions for the motor/center diff mount? The stock exb one seems offly chincy and i heard you need to replace the two top screws as they strip easy.

Is the hot racing motor mount worth it?

Also, for the rear hubs and front steering blocks, is it worth it to just start with the aluminum hot racing ones or do the stock plastic ones hold up well? I know ive broken a couple on my 4s outcast, so wondering if its a good idea to just start with aluminum for a 6s rig.

Thanks again!
We all bash differently...

Never had an issue with the EXB mounts. I remove the red or black coloring (sometimes) and add cap head screws with washers....sold for my Talion, Kraton, FT, TLR, etc rigs.

Lots of posts on hubs. Some stay cheap getting new stock ones from Jennys and saving a lot of money and some never had an issue. Others like me if I am going to do small upgrades I go with the aluminum hubs. I buy off eBay I am not stuck on HR.. Comes down to personal choice.

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If building from scratch I would skip the cheap Chinesium diffs and instead build EXB open diffs with the Arrma aluminum 29mm diff cups.
X2.... I mean 3. Wish I would have asked this question. I just did the same thing - built from scratch... I opted for old school diffs - arrma cases and m2c out drive cups. It'll work, but slicks recombination would be my bread and butter in hindsight. Have fun!

20230410_220025.jpg
 
EXB open diffs, but the open EXB conversion diff shims are not that good.
The 'large' shims that go under the pin are to small, but they will do.
The 'thick' shims have no support for the cross edges at the backside of the sun gear.(n) You could use a couple round EXB shims instead as they will give additional support.

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My Talion came with LSDs in F/C /R. Center LSD is good, front is ok, I believe a lighter diff oil for the front. In the rear I would either do an open diff, or LSD set to the least aggressive setting and no more than 10k diff oil. If I'm rolling or from a stand still my Talion always kicks to one side or the other from the rear. . I believe an open diff with lighter oil will slow that down.
 
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