Outcast Center Diff Popping!

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Jluther@becoinc

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Arrma RC's
  1. Senton 6s
  2. Talion
Took the Outcast 8s RTR EXB out for a run after adding Vitavon Towers and a rear diff cover with Vitavon gears and Vitavon diff housing in the rear. Already had the vitavon center housing in. It ran amazing. No problems stellar performance. I’m cleaning it up and the center diff pops on startup! Doesn’t do it while stopping. Center diff inside is stock. Would ear plugs make the center diff stronger?

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I would put earplugs in the center. Not sure what's causing the popping, you'll have to see when you open it for earplugs. Where did you get those shock caps??
 
I would put earplugs in the center. Not sure what's causing the popping, you'll have to see when you open it for earplugs. Where did you get those shock caps??
Vitavon! I had a rear diff go out and it popped too. The crown gears were damaged on both sides of the diff. With the center I’m thinking that with ear plugs if it pops who cares. You need a little slip? Am I wrong?
 
Vitavon! I had a rear diff go out and it popped too. The crown gears were damaged on both sides of the diff. With the center I’m thinking that with ear plugs if it pops who cares. You need a little slip? Am I wrong?
I had to get the vitavon shims/washers for the diffs. I had problems with the crown gears stripping before. I don’t think slippage is good anywhere tbh. I’ve never had any issues with the center diff in either of my 8s rigs. Mostly the rear diff..
 
I had to get the vitavon shims/washers for the diffs. I had problems with the crown gears stripping before. I don’t think slippage is good anywhere tbh. I’ve never had any issues with the center diff in either of my 8s rigs. Mostly the rear diff..
Have the Vitavon cured your problem? I have them in the front and rear but only one run on them. I think I will go ahead and get spider gears for the center. Can you order just shims and washers?
 
Get some 10-20mill diff oil instead you will still see all the lock up of ear plugs but you will still have give on hard landings so you don't just wrench there gear from you diffs. Ear plug mod all ways going to eat gears man. Yes its the front and rear diff you will probably kill with the earplug mod in the center.

As for popping take it apart look for chipped or worn teeth.
 
Have earplugs in my o8s, k8s and one of my xrts and Ive not had a single problem. Some people even do it for 6s rigs! I thought that was crazy but hey if it works it works. I've never had a single diff problem in my arrma 8s rigs besides rear diff screws backing out once. I went to alu case in rear and never had it happen again. Some of us even on 12s and not a single diff problem. I need to earplug my 12s kraton.
 
Have earplugs in my o8s, k8s and one of my xrts and Ive not had a single problem. Some people even do it for 6s rigs! I thought that was crazy but hey if it works it works. I've never had a single diff problem in my arrma 8s rigs besides rear diff screws backing out once. I went to alu case in rear and never had it happen again. Some of us even on 12s and not a single diff problem. I need to earplug my 12s kraton.
Are you using Arrma aluminum cases? I put them in mine and earlier when I swapped from Arrma to Vitavon the screws had backed out a little bit. It wasn’t damaged. The Vitavon have the four nub’s that fit in the main gear and the Arrma don’t. I’m hoping that will keep the screws in but I don’t know for now. I intend to get Vitavon spider gears and then earplug it. Does that sound good? I see you have several 1/5 scale trucks so thanks for any input on bulltproofing the 8s.
It takes a community to raise a good Arrma !!
😆😂🤣
 
There is some debate on this I wont push my opinion on the forums to much because its hard to present to many "facts" to confirm it and by all means I may be wrong.

Just in my experience I have chewed up the internal gears of the front and rear diffs after ear plug mod on the center diff. My reasoning is that all the load is being forced in to them because there is little to no slop for the center diff to take up. Same reason most people don't put a spool in a basher. Ear plus mod is 1 step from spool.

Most people are going to leave some fail point so we don't brake more expensive things. This is the reasoning behind most not using aluminum A arms other then the weight. You don't want to brake the hinge pin blocks and bulk heads. Yes you could upgrade them as well but there is all ways going to be something that brakes in a good crash and now were just braking higher price items.

I guess in conclusion. Do you want give or to potentially have to spend money on parts. This is 100% up to the user and all we can do is give our opinion on the matter. Or present facts the prove our outlook.
 
Are you using Arrma aluminum cases? I put them in mine and earlier when I swapped from Arrma to Vitavon the screws had backed out a little bit. It wasn’t damaged. The Vitavon have the four nub’s that fit in the main gear and the Arrma don’t. I’m hoping that will keep the screws in but I don’t know for now. I intend to get Vitavon spider gears and then earplug it. Does that sound good? I see you have several 1/5 scale trucks so thanks for any input on bulltproofing the 8s.
It takes a community to raise a good Arrma !!
😆😂🤣
I was using the arrma case for months with zero problems but one day I went to service it and broke the screw. They're very odd sized screws that I didn't have but I did have a vitavon case so I'm using that now and it's been zero problems as well. I can't remember if I used orange or red loctite tbh but I know green is crazy strong and oil resistant too. Green is how I snapped the screw on the arrma case. I put that thing back together with green loctite and realized I forgot something and that thing became so hard to unscrew so fast it was bonkers. I'm terrified of the green stuff now.


I've never had a single problem with stock diff internals but I'm sure you can't go wrong with vitavon. Honestly, besides needing a chassis and adding nylon washers to my rear shock shafts to stop from breaking dog bone pins it's been pretty damn awesome for me. I'd probably still be on stock chassis if I never nose dived a sidewalk. It lasted me over a year before I did that.
 
I was using the arrma case for months with zero problems but one day I went to service it and broke the screw. They're very odd sized screws that I didn't have but I did have a vitavon case so I'm using that now and it's been zero problems as well. I can't remember if I used orange or red loctite tbh but I know green is crazy strong and oil resistant too. Green is how I snapped the screw on the arrma case. I put that thing back together with green loctite and realized I forgot something and that thing became so hard to unscrew so fast it was bonkers. I'm terrified of the green stuff now.


I've never had a single problem with stock diff internals but I'm sure you can't go wrong with vitavon. Honestly, besides needing a chassis and adding nylon washers to my rear shock shafts to stop from breaking dog bone pins it's been pretty damn awesome for me. I'd probably still be on stock chassis if I never nose dived a sidewalk. It lasted me over a year before I did that.
I got the vitavon diff cups and spider gears. I had to put the ARRMA aluminum ones back cause the vitavon are binding. The spider gears come with shims and washers that I think may not be needed. I hope I didn’t damage them.
 
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