Checking lipo charge

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leakywellie

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Newbie question.
The big rock 6s is my first rc vehicle it will be run on 6s 5000mah spektrum g2 smart lipos and the supplied slt3 transmitter.
How do you check the battery voltage on the lipo in the truck? Do you stop and use a battery checker or is there telemetry similar to my planes that use the spektrum system? I'd hate to run these very expensive lipos down to a low voltage situation.
Cheers
 
Read the manual, you should program the ESC for the LVC level you want. I go “medium.” No telemetry is necessary, but it can be displayed with the Spectrum transmitters that have a screen. don't forget to set your steering endpoints while you’re at it.
 
A lipo alarm like this can be used, and it'll generate an audible alarm when it's time to stop. These SMC alarms in particular are good because they account for voltage drop on high draws.

If you want something fancier, these are bluetooth enabled. You can just drive your truck within range and check voltage on the app. They do not have an audible alarm, however.
 
Thanks guys, I have read the manual and it tells me that factory default is level four. It does not tell me the voltage per cell at level four or how it is indicated. On one of my older planes without telemetry it is indicated by the motor going to a low power setting. The planes with telemetry have a voice call out on my transmitter.
How does the BR6S tell me the voltage is getting down?

Crashboom I'll certainly look into those alarms but these spektrum smart g2 lipos do not have traditional balance leads.
Cheers
 
Grab a programming card and you can plug the balance lead in anytime, I prefer DX5 telemetry when running Spektrum or Hobbywing’s new v2 Bluetooth app for instantaneous data however at the convenience of a peripheral glance.

Edit- I see you bought into the overpriced Lipos so you can use a Spektrum dx3 as a cheaper alternative voltage status transmitter but it doesn’t display digital telemetry.
 
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I don't recommend the voltage alarms. If you are bashing you won't hear them despite them being loud. Get a DX5 and you can see the voltage on your screen, all the receivers have telemetry. If you are smart, ditch the Spektrum rx/TX and go with Radiolink, cheaper in the long run.
 
Yeah My RL telem works great. I only need live Mains voltage readings when speed running my Lim. When I bash my other Off road rigs, I pretty much trust my LVC Cutoff settings thus far.
Or I will check the pack with my Lipo testor if I am concernd about a certain pack during a run. 3.5 volts per cell is as low as I would want to get. Any lower will ruin a Lipo. I am getting about 10-15 minute run times, with 6k Mah 6s packs. I am good with that. How you are geared and how you drive will determine run time. Some of my rigs only get 10 min.
 
Thanks guys, I have read the manual and it tells me that factory default is level four. It does not tell me the voltage per cell at level four or how it is indicated. On one of my older planes without telemetry it is indicated by the motor going to a low power setting. The planes with telemetry have a voice call out on my transmitter.
How does the BR6S tell me the voltage is getting down?

Crashboom I'll certainly look into those alarms but these spektrum smart g2 lipos do not have traditional balance leads.
Cheers
As you mentioned, the motor will go into a low power mode and the car will slow. If you have the newest of the Spectrum Smart series packs the batteries will also automatically reduce voltage to the proper storage voltage when removed from your truck, which is a nice feature. As others have mentioned, you’ll need to upgrade to at least a DX5 to monitor telemetry on the radio, but I also agree that at that point I would not opt for another Spectrum system when so many others (RadioLink R6 series is my pick) offer so many more features, performance, telemetry, and range for a much better price.
 
Thanks guys, that's all great information. As for buying a new controller that is out of the question after the amount of money this set up cost. The truck, lipos, charger and a few tools used up all my hobby dollars and a few extra. Then I have to remember my wife has ways of making me regret over spending on my hobbies. o_O
So with me being a newbie to rc vehicles I'll just be overly cautious with the batteries until I understand the situation better.
Cheers
 
Thanks guys, that's all great information. As for buying a new controller that is out of the question after the amount of money this set up cost. The truck, lipos, charger and a few tools used up all my hobby dollars and a few extra. Then I have to remember my wife has ways of making me regret over spending on my hobbies. o_O
So with me being a newbie to rc vehicles I'll just be overly cautious with the batteries until I understand the situation better.
Cheers
You’ll be totally fine with what you have. Battery telemetry isn’t necessary at all for surface vehicles, as you will see the rig slow dramatically when it hits LVC. Go forth and have fun, sir. There is plenty of time in the future for this hobby to deplete your bank accounts. 😊
 
Yeah My RL telem works great. I only need live Mains voltage readings when speed running my Lim. When I bash my other Off road rigs, I pretty much trust my LVC Cutoff settings thus far.
Or I will check the pack with my Lipo testor if I am concernd about a certain pack during a run. 3.5 volts per cell is as low as I would want to get. Any lower will ruin a Lipo. I am getting about 10-15 minute run times, with 6k Mah 6s packs. I am good with that. How you are geared and how you drive will determine run time. Some of my rigs only get 10 min.
Well when the time comes you can always get yourself a Radiolink RC6GS for $80. AMZ. One multi-model Long Range radio for all your models as you grow in this hobby. Most any good upgrade radio will enhance the driving experience hands down, and open up a new level of RC Control not available with a Cheap RTR Spektrum, Supposedly "Smart" radio. We all been down this path.
The RL RC4GS radio is only around $60.00 FWIW. Basically only 2 less channels, same performance. With Surface RC you only really need a 2 channel radio.
Thanks guys, that's all great information. As for buying a new controller that is out of the question after the amount of money this set up cost. The truck, lipos, charger and a few tools used up all my hobby dollars and a few extra. Then I have to remember my wife has ways of making me regret over spending on my hobbies. o_O
So with me being a newbie to rc vehicles I'll just be overly cautious with the batteries until I understand the situation better.
Cheers
Well when the time comes you can always get yourself a Radiolink RC6GS for $80. AMZ. One multi-model Long Range radio for all your models as you grow in this hobby. Most any good upgrade radio will enhance the driving experience hands down, and open up a new level of RC Control not available with a Cheap RTR Spektrum, Supposedly "Smart" radio. We all been down this path.
The RL RC4GS radio is only around $60.00 FWIW. Basically only 2 less channels, same performance. With Surface RC you only really need a 2 channel radio.

Steve
 
SrC, I was wondering why there was a recommendation for a 6ch radio when we only use two. I assume the only difference between the 6 and 4 ch radiolink controllers are the number of channels and price.
Does the radiolink bind to the existing spektrum receiver in the br6s ( I think its a 315 ) or if I go that route do I need to buy another receiver?
Either way I'll only be running the stock slt3 until well into the new year.
 
No Spektrum is proprietary but so are all others :)
Radiolink will only work with Radiolink but the receivers are much better and a lot cheaper than anything Spektrum has to offer.

I wouldn't go by channel count, you want a display for all your settings.
You truly only need 2 channels on a car but than some want lights and hand brake etc.
 
+!
SrC, I was wondering why there was a recommendation for a 6ch radio when we only use two. I assume the only difference between the 6 and 4 ch radiolink controllers are the number of channels and price.
Does the radiolink bind to the existing spektrum receiver in the br6s ( I think its a 315 ) or if I go that route do I need to buy another receiver?
Either way I'll only be running the stock slt3 until well into the new year.
The $20.00 difference between the RC6 and RC4 was minimal. I went RC6. Has a few more features. And added channels kind of future proofs the radio when or if you add other types of Models to this radio , i.e. Nitro models, Crawlers with "Switched lighting", Dig units and 2 speed tranny servos, Scale winches and other accessories. For bashers, 2 channels are commonly used. Thr. and ST.
I believe you also get 2 Receivers with the RC6GS. My V2 did. That alone makes up for the added $20.00.(y) Double check that. And RL Rx's are inexpensivve as well. All the the RL Rx's have a built in Steering Gyro. Can be disabled if you don't want that feature . The RL R7FG Rx. also adds Lipo volts Telemetry. And offers the max. signal range, using double antennas.
RC4GS comes with one Rx. Both have same range and performance. Both feel the same eronomically. I use a small 2s Lipo battery in mine, instead of AA batteries. Lasts quite long, many runs on a full charge. AA's get expensive , and tend to always leak out and ruin things, if you leave them in. I primarily bought the RL to speed run long distance with my Limitless. I also have the DX5C. (n)Regret that decision. And also have the Flysky Noble NB4. Nicest radio, at a higher price point. Just not the best long range however. I find that most decent upgrade radios have better latency frame rates over RTR radios. You feel better connected and in better control.
Like @jkflow stated, 99.9% of Rx's are proprietary with their respective brand.
 
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