Deans Connector Question

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ZoomZoom

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Hello everyone,

Trying to make a comeback to the hobby after a long hiatus and I just purchased a Kraton 6S which I will be picking it up tomorrow (yay!).

Problem is I didn't think I'd get my hands on it so soon as they seem to be out of stock almost everywhere so I bought new lipos for my other cars that use deans connectors.

Bought these:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/2pcs-7-4V-2...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
and a pair of these:
https://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=GENH50002S50W

I was planning on running the Kraton on 4S for now until I get used to it because I'm a newbie and a terrible driver.

My question:
Since I'll only be running 4S (by 2 x 2S packs) would it be okay if I keep the deans on the batteries and just utilize a connector to go to IC5/EC5?
I'm not great at soldering and not thrilled about having to change the connectors on all the batteries and other cars.
 
I think Dean's are only rated for 60 amps. XT 90's are 90 amps,, EC 5 are 120 amp. The Dean's will probably get hot and adapters are for the lack of a better word, (that's permitted here) Crap.
 
The most I'd run with Deans is 3s, and even then the leads on my old scrap heap HPI Bullet on 3s used to get fairly hot, so I eventually swapped all connectors out for EC5

I would personally take a day to replace all your batteries with either XT90, XT150 or EC5 connectors. They'll take much more load. Deans are a thing of the past. Once it's done, it's done ?
 
I recommend switching to ec5 personally. Then if you want to use the batteries in your other cars, make an adapter.

It's initially annoying to do it, but worth it in the end. Progressive rc sells specialty punches to ease the install of connectors into ec5 housing. Or you can use a flat screwdriver. Just be mindful with it, I've stabbed myself in the hand a few times.
 
Ok, bear with me. The last time I dealt with this I was swapping tamiya plugs for deans...

  • EC5 would be the preferred connector as it allows for more unimpeded flow of current.
  • IC5 appears to be a proprietary version of the EC5 (I don't see many other battery companies using them besides Spektrum) but they are intended to work with EC5.
So my ideal course of action would be to change the deans off the new battery for EC5 and either use a adaptor for the older car or change them to EC5 as well.

I think I got it.

Thanks.
 
Ideally yes go all ec5. The xt90 or xt150 are also excellent. The ec5 is rated for higher current than the xt90. Both are widely used. Xt150 is less common, but can handle more amps than the ec5. However less widely used, but that could change. Xt90 are much easier to solder though.

Ic5 is compatible with ec5. Reminds me of the xt90 with "battgo"

These are just my thoughts, I'm by no means an expert whatsoever.

This is a good spot for info:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...connector-types-choosing-and-soldering.10224/
 
EC5 is easier to solder than you might think. I did my first connector soldering jobs with just a lighter, by putting some pieces of soldering wire in the cups of the plugs and then heating it up with the flame.
I recommend switching to ec5 personally. Then if you want to use the batteries in your other cars, make an adapter.

It's initially annoying to do it, but worth it in the end. Progressive rc sells specialty punches to ease the install of connectors into ec5 housing. Or you can use a flat screwdriver. Just be mindful with it, I've stabbed myself in the hand a few times.
Yooo I need those specialty punches! With the latest batch of ec connectors I bought it feels impossible to get the plugs into the housing without doing dremel work beforehand.
Can you share a link?
 
I've noticed the same. This is usually when I get hulk. Half the time I could never find the punch.

https://www.progressiverc.com/prc-ec5-assembly-punch.html
Thanks. I envisioned something... more sophisticated? ? That doesn't look like it will do much better than the flathead drivers I normally use.

The thing about the Hulk is he just destroys the housing.
I wedge the plug and blue hull in a vice and then try to slowly push the plug in by tightening the vice. My new hulls would rather crumple in on themselves than let that plug enter.
 
I suppose adding a 20ton hydraulic press would make things easier? Lol

The punch works good when I am able to find it. For me, a quick tap sets the connector better than a slow compression. The screwdriver method covers less surface area and more likely to go in crooked. But I've always had pretty good success with both.
 
I suppose adding a 20ton hydraulic press would make things easier? Lol

The punch works good when I am able to find it. For me, a quick tap sets the connector better than a slow compression. The screwdriver method covers less surface area and more likely to go in crooked. But I've always had pretty good success with both.
I shall try swift hammer swings.
 
Just a heads up, some EC5s (well my Amazon ones do anyway) punch in the housing far easier if you thread the cable through the housing first, BEFORE soldering the connector plug. Then I tap them in using an old hex driver and a little hammer
 
Just a heads up, some EC5s (well my Amazon ones do anyway) punch in the housing far easier if you thread the cable through the housing first, BEFORE soldering the connector plug. Then I tap them in using an old hex driver and a little hammer
That is very good advice and I actually started doing that. It works better, but with my current batch it's still impossible without previous dremeling.
 
What are you grinding on with the Dremel? Solder blobs on the outside? That is the only thing that makes it hard for me. You can use the hot iron to smooth / remove those blobs, instead of grinding.
 
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