Kraton Devin’s Kraton 6s EXB All Show, Plus Go!!!

[Dan B.]

I got it right before I plugged it in. I may have had it wrong originally. Only problem I’m having now is trying to figure out this Futaba T3PV. I love Futaba, but this is the worst one I’ve ever owned programming wise and it’s been a while since I’ve messed with this stuff so I forgot a lot lol.

Also, I’m gonna put the castle 1717 system in my big savage after I get an Alza center diff for it

Thanks for the help

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One to turn, two to burn!
Yeah, programming everything well takes awhile to really dial things in with dual rates, expos, etc. Takes me a lot of concentration. Don’t smoke weed.

 

[Devin]

One to turn, two to burn!
Yeah, programming everything well takes awhile to really dial things in with dual rates, expos, etc. Takes me a lot of concentration. Don’t smoke weed.

I think that’s what the problem was yesterday. The wax had already got a hold of me when I started messing with it. Lol.

 

[Devin]

Finally got it up and going, and I can say that the first shakedown run was a huge success. I actually like the weight of it. It is very planted yet handles very well.

 

[SrC]

I’m going to have at least 80% of the parts I need left over to build a Stock EXB and I might eventually do that and make that the rig that I beat the hell out of and upgrade parts as needed. I have done the same with my two Losi LMT’s. My USA-1 has almost everything you can do to it done and is pretty much a shelf Queen, while my Grave Digger only has what most consider the essentials done to it at this point. If I’m going to do backflips and other stuff I run my Grave Digger, but if I want to just blast around the yard and keep it on all 4’s I will run my USA-1. When I sink a couple thousand dollars into one I tend to be alot more careful with how I drive it, but that’s just me.

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Very nice setup there. Nice neat work.
From experience, learned I now rather spend less and have more rigs, than put all my pretty apples into one basket, then to only leave it on the shelf unscathed. Upgrade parts are meant for hard use, not show. Scratches are ok. But we all do it differently. It's pretty obvious how much $coin$ you've invested so far. I can appreciate all the effort.
Keep us updated.
There is much to learn from your build there.

 

[Devin]

Very nice setup there. Nice neat work.
From experience, learned I now rather spend less and have more rigs, than put all my pretty apples into one basket, then to only leave it on the shelf unscathed. Upgrade parts are meant for hard use, not show. Scratches are ok. But we all do it differently. It's pretty obvious how much $coin$ you've invested so far. I can appreciate all the effort.
Keep us updated.
There is much to learn from your build there.

This is just one of many RC vehicles I have. None of my vehicles are stock other than my race Mugen truggy

 

[SrC]

You are a well seasoned RC guy no doubt. And eat this stuff for breakfast. An Asset. Great that you are here on AF.

 

[ARA8611V5]

You don’t know what your talking about and you should do some research before you open your mouth. Treal makes all of their own products on site and they are not cheap copies of stuff like the Ali express and hot racing ones. Do a little research into Treal before you say things like that. Treal and Vitavon for that matter are nothing like the cheap cast aluminum parts your referencing.

All of the Treal and Vitavon parts I have purchased have been top notch. Can't say the same for some of the other brands.

 

[SrC]

Have you seen the ADU stuff yet.
Had much Treal on my crawlers. Just seems like basic fit and finish like the other mainstream brands. i.e. HR etc. Not 100% perfect with a few parts. This only with my Crawlers.

 

[ARA8611V5]

Have you seen the ADU stuff yet.
Had much Treal on my crawlers. Just seems like basic fit and finish like the other mainstream brands. i.e. HR etc. Not 100% perfect with a few parts. This only with my Crawlers.

Not familiar with ADU. Will look it up.

 

[Devin]

Get the body fitted up and I’m gonna run it some this afternoon

 

[Devin]

OK guys I have a question. First off, let me start with I have a lot of experience with RC vehicles but not a lot of experience jumping them. I did some small jumps around the house yesterday, and I was noticing that the vehicle was launching nose high almost every time. Other than throttle input, what is the easiest way to get this vehicle to fly level? I have not installed the heavier Tekno springs I got yet I was thinking about putting them on the rear first and seeing if it corrects it.

 

[Dan B.]

OK guys I have a question. First off, let me start with I have a lot of experience with RC vehicles but not a lot of experience jumping them. I did some small jumps around the house yesterday, and I was noticing that the vehicle was launching nose high almost every time. Other than throttle input, what is the easiest way to get this vehicle to fly level? I have not installed the heavier Tekno springs I got yet I was thinking about putting them on the rear first and seeing if it corrects it.

On small jumps, it's all about balance. Can you move the battery back? If you get more air then you can control it with throttle inputs. Brake to lower the nose in the air, throttle to raise it or do backflips.
As nice as your new build is, you might want to practice with another rig. Or stock up on a-arms, wing mounts, wings, etc. You WILL break things until you learn air control.
Also, if you land while on throttle or brakes then you’ll be replacing diffs for sure. Good luck!

 

[Devin]

On small jumps, it's all about balance. Can you move the battery back? If you get more air then you can control it with throttle inputs. Brake to lower the nose in the air, throttle to raise it or do backflips.
As nice as your new build is, you might want to practice with another rig. Or stock up on a-arms, wing mounts, wings, etc. You WILL break things until you learn air control.
Also, if you land while on throttle or brakes then you’ll be replacing diffs for sure. Good luck!

I’m trying to get it to fly level off a jump with no throttle input. Is moving the battery back really gonna make the nose go down? Seems opposite of what I’ve heard or read. I know better than to land on the gas or brakes. I exploded a few diffs in my HPI savages years ago learning that and doing triple backflips from a stop on concrete

 

[Dan B.]

I’m trying to get it to fly level off a jump with no throttle input. Is moving the battery back really gonna make the nose go down? Seems opposite of what I’ve heard or read. I know better than to land on the gas or brakes. I exploded a few diffs in my HPI savages years ago learning that and doing triple backflips from a stop on concrete

Yes, I meant to say move the battery up. Still on my first cup of coffee…

 

[SrC]

OK guys I have a question. First off, let me start with I have a lot of experience with RC vehicles but not a lot of experience jumping them. I did some small jumps around the house yesterday, and I was noticing that the vehicle was launching nose high almost every time. Other than throttle input, what is the easiest way to get this vehicle to fly level? I have not installed the heavier Tekno springs I got yet I was thinking about putting them on the rear first and seeing if it corrects it.

It will do what you want, without overthinking it too much or major upgrades, Its just Driver skill.... and a lot of wheel time. At some point it will all click for you.
If anything, adjust your Brake Force and Punch settings, dialing in radio input response, to your liking.
It's all about rotational control, and "dead on" quick reaction time with your inputs. Practice.
It seems against the grain at first, but bigger/ higher air time affords you more time for correction mid air. Just the higher you go, the carnage risk increases exponentially.

 

[Devin]

I’m probably gonna go ahead and order a set of spare A arms. I was wondering about peoples opinions on the RPM ones versus stock.

 

[RCbuzz]

I’m probably gonna go ahead and order a set of spare A arms. I was wondering about peoples opinions on the RPM ones versus stock.

There is a huge thread regarding RPM arms here, the consensus seems to be people like stock better.

When I jump cars I tend to hold the throttle steady, if I let go of the throttle it nose dives.

The more you jump the better feel for your RC you will get. I would modulate throttle to get that perfect soar and then start tweaking weight balance if that is your thing.

 

[Dan B.]

I’m probably gonna go ahead and order a set of spare A arms. I was wondering about peoples opinions on the RPM ones versus stock.

On heavier rigs the RPM arms suck green donkey pond water. They start sagging almost immediately and flex way too much while driving, significantly changing the handling characteristics of the rig.
However, with the RPM wing mounts (or better, 3DRC) it will definitely help save the rear. Here is where the added flex becomes a benefit and not a liability.

 

[Devin]

On heavier rigs the RPM arms suck green donkey pond water. They start sagging almost immediately and flex way too much while driving, significantly changing the handling characteristics of the rig.
However, with the RPM wing mounts (or better, 3DRC) it will definitely help save the rear. Here is where the added flex becomes a benefit and not a liability.

Yes, I’ve already got the 3-D RC wing mount and the front bumper support. I just need to order a spare set of a arms because it’s going to be inevitable to break them as heavy as the rig is when I start taking bigger jumps

 

[SrC]

I’m probably gonna go ahead and order a set of spare A arms. I was wondering about peoples opinions on the RPM ones versus stock.

The RPM Nylon Arms are very soft and flexible. Too much. So they bend and stay warped too. You may find yourself popping Axel CVD's and Universals. They still can snap as well.
Rigid stocker Arms are best. IMO from past exper. Some others here feel the same. JennysRC.com has stockers. Seems since Arrma Version 5, arms were vastly improved.
I do have few straggler RPM arms still working on older Arrma stuff here. Like the Upper Front RPM arms are better than stock if anything. I always boil RPM parts in boiling water for 5-10 min. They wont crack as easily this way.