Big Rock F/R driveshaft has different lengths

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kaladeth

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Limitless
Learned the hard way that the front slider driveshaft is 2 mm longer than the rear.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/composite-front-slider-driveshaft-set-4x4/ARAC4041.html

https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/composite-rear-slider-driveshaft-set-4x4/ARAC4043.html

Would have been fine, except that it is long enough that my MIP 2.0 driver can’t reach the screw. 😭 🤦‍♂️

IMG_0453.jpeg


Any recommendations on what (longer) driver I should get?
 
Last edited:
Learned the hard way that the front slider driveshaft is 2 mm longer than the rear.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/composite-front-slider-driveshaft-set-4x4/ARAC4041.html

https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/composite-rear-slider-driveshaft-set-4x4/ARAC4043.html

Would have been fine, except that it is long enough that my MIP 2.0 driver can’t reach the screw. 😭 🤦‍♂️

View attachment 342800

Use a big drill bit to (slowly & carefully) ream out the driveshaft opening just enough to allow you to push the MIP driver that extra 2-3mm to reach the screw..
 
I'd grind down that little bit on the mip driver, it won't reduce the strength of the mip driver enough for it to snap with the amount of torque you'd be putting on it.
 
Use a big drill bit to (slowly & carefully) ream out the driveshaft opening just enough to allow you to push the MIP driver that extra 2-3mm to reach the screw..
Or as it's a slider use a Dremel to grind and shorten the shaft a little. I wonder if using it full length will cause other problems?.... there was some reason Arrma made the rear driveshaft shorter.
 
Turning requires longer shafts is my guess. The question is why not just use the longer ones for front & rear. Better manufacturing efficiency would probably be cheaper than the tiny bit less material cost.
 
Turning requires longer shafts is my guess. The question is why not just use the longer ones for front & rear. Better manufacturing efficiency would probably be cheaper than the tiny bit less material cost.
I'd be a little concerned about what the driveshaft does when the suspension is flexed in certain directions.
 
That's what I did: Just hollowed out the inside of the driveshaft slight more with a drill/bit. You won't be reducing it's length, just make the hole slightly bigger so some of the hex bit's fatty portion can fit down into the driveshaft.

Otherwise, buy some cheap t-handle allen keys and call it day!
 
Learned the hard way that the front slider driveshaft is 2 mm longer than the rear.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/composite-front-slider-driveshaft-set-4x4/ARAC4041.html

https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/composite-rear-slider-driveshaft-set-4x4/ARAC4043.html

Would have been fine, except that it is long enough that my MIP 2.0 driver can’t reach the screw. 😭 🤦‍♂️

View attachment 342800

Any recommendations on what (longer) driver I should get?
I installed these rcawd dog bones in my granite. Said they are for big rock and maybe granite I think but I noticed two were a little longer than other two. A few spacers and they are rock solid. Coupled with steel diffs that things a beast on 4s.

IMG_20231004_190955728_HDR.jpg


IMG_20231004_223929334.jpg


IMG_20231004_224108777_HDR.jpg
 
I installed these rcawd dog bones in my granite. Said they are for big rock and maybe granite I think but I noticed two were a little longer than other two. A few spacers and they are rock solid. Coupled with steel diffs that things a beast on 4s.

View attachment 342823

View attachment 342824

View attachment 342825

Keep us posted on durability, I know a lot of people have been looking for a stronger upgrade like this. I am still running plastic here, for what they are, they are strong.

As for the MIP bit being too short, I actually mentioned this to MIP but sadly it sounds like they have no plans to make the 2mm bit slightly longer.
 
I been running them hard since I installed and they are tough. The pics I posted though have spacers that are too big and drive cup bottomed out against the diff and tried to lock but I found smaller washers that only seated on inner race of bearing and it works good. I like the screw to hold the cup on idea better than the two grub on sides
You can also put small washers inside the cup to push it out just make sure your screws are long enough to properly grab the output
 
VP and even other cheaper brand hex drivers are longer. Need to buy them. Simple enough.
 
Weirdly none of the local hardware stores had any that were longer than what I already had. Took a chance on Amazon - seems third time is the charm. The slider has been freed!

IMG_0513.jpeg
 
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