Kraton Gpm Servo Horn + Tie Rod set [ MAK16025 ]

[Mopsik_Klopsik]

Does someone here have this gpm Servo Horn + Tie Rod set [ MAK16025 ] installed in his kraton/outcast and could send a picture of it. I want to know if there is 90 degree angle between servo horn and tie rod when installed.

 

[332_RC]

Yes

 

[SrC]

Pretty much a copy of the HR version.
And nothing much great about the HR ones according to some. Aside from the alloy $Bling$ look.
If looking to reduce "some" of that steering slop, there are other more critical areas to address first.
I stay with the stockers. In all 9 of my 6s rigs. Just me.

>>>BTW, you posted this in the 4x4 line section. 4x4 guys have a different setup altogether.
Better off putting this in the Arrma 6s line section. Will get more hits and answers/opinions this way.

 

[Mopsik_Klopsik]

Pretty much a copy of the HR version.
And nothing much great about the HR ones according to some. Aside from the alloy $Bling$ look.
If looking to reduce "some" of that steering slop, there are other more critical areas to address first.
I stay with the stockers. In all 9 of my 6s rigs. Just me.

>>>BTW, you posted this in the 4x4 line section. 4x4 guys have a different setup altogether.
Better off putting this in the Arrma 6s line section. Will get more hits and answers/opinions this way.

So you say HR ones are worse than stock or there is just nothing special about them. My current servo horn have some slop in it. I want to get rid of it. But mostly I'm going for the looks. I like aluminium bling . I already replaced steering bushings for bearings and want to put some shims under steering assembly to stop it from going up and down.

 

[332_RC]

So you say HR ones are worse than stock or there is just nothing special about them. My current servo horn have some slop in it. I want to get rid of it. But mostly I'm going for the looks. I like aluminium bling . I already replaced steering bushings for bearings and want to put some shims under steering assembly to stop it from going up and down.

I hear ya. I have a HR horn on my Notorious & I bash it pretty good. Its been fine. Nice move on the flanged bearings & shims. That'll be a good setup. I hate slop anywhere. Especially rear axles.

 

[SrC]

That up and down slop on the steering posts is a problem for some. If you want to slam your rig with bling, go for it. I know many who used this type of Servo/ Arm link, end up with slop as they wear anyway. And rather quickly. It's your wallet. These Arrma rigs are made to a lower price point and hence, the lack of precision and inherent slop that results. Great as "Bashers" nontheless. As Basher's go, they drive just fine this way. You can shim here and there and even use Teflon tape into ALL the Steering ball ends and pop the balls back in, and this will reduce much but never ALL that slop. You can spend $hundreds$, trying to address this. Upgrade brands know its a $feeding$ frenzy. You can build a whole Arrma 6s rig from almost 100% in Upgrade brand parts, weighing a ton in the end.
Want to slam all with alloys, you are just adding weight, when you add it ALL up. With no real gain in durability, driveability or performance, again in some cases. etc.
Might as well get it out of your system if you want all the alloys, the look appealing to you. Nothing wrong with a nice looking Shelf queen.
>>>This is your hobby, no one else's.
>>>There are some Upgrade alloys that are necessary priorities. >>> Have you changed your stocker Front and Rear braces to alloy ones yet? Do that first if you haven't. Just one example of this. Maybe you have already. IDK.
Please take all what I say with a grain of salt.

 

[Mopsik_Klopsik]

I'm not concerned about slop on the ball ends. The servo arm have slop in it ( maybe its the servo problem ). Actually this part is half the price of the original arrma equivalent in my country.

That up and down slop on the steering posts is a problem for some. If you want to slam your rig with bling, go for it. I know many who used this type of Servo/ Arm link, end up with slop as they wear anyway. And rather quickly. It's your wallet. These Arrma rigs are made to a lower price point and hence, the lack of precision and inherent slop that results. Great as "Bashers" nontheless. As Basher's go, they drive just fine this way. You can shim here and there and even use Teflon tape into ALL the Steering ball ends and pop the balls back in, and this will reduce much but never ALL that slop. You can spend $hundreds$, trying to address this. Upgrade brands know its a $feeding$ frenzy. You can build a whole Arrma 6s rig from almost 100% in Upgrade brand parts, weighing a ton in the end.
Want to slam all with alloys, you are just adding weight, when you add it ALL up. With no real gain in durability, driveability or performance, again in some cases. etc.
Might as well get it out of your system if you want all the alloys, the look appealing to you. Nothing wrong with a nice looking Shelf queen.
>>>This is your hobby, no one else's.
>>>There are some Upgrade alloys that are necessary priorities. >>> Have you changed your stocker Front and Rear braces to alloy ones yet? Do that first if you haven't. Just one example of this. Maybe you have already. IDK.
Please take all what I say with a grain of salt.

I understand you. Unfortunately it is too late to rethink all that as I already upgraded almost everything. I was originally planning to buy 1/8 competition racing buggy like kyosho/team associated, but the nearest race track is 1,5 hour drive one way and its not always open ( weather etc. )

 

[SrC]

So you say HR ones are worse than stock or there is just nothing special about them. My current servo horn have some slop in it. I want to get rid of it. But mostly I'm going for the looks. I like aluminium bling . I already replaced steering bushings for bearings and want to put some shims under steering assembly to stop it from going up and down.

Going with Steering BB's is a great place to start, absolutely, just that it only represents a small improvement overall. Making the Steering more smooth and fluid. With less wear than the stocker Brass bushings. A very common upgrade. All upgrade brand BB sets include them for this reason.

>>>The upgrade alloy Servo links use an O-ring to capture the balls with it. The steel Balls cannot be pressed into alloy. So that design is flawed IMHO. And an Alloy link against a steel ball will wear out faster than a stocker "plastic" Arm with a steel ball. The O-rings will wear and cause its own issues there. HR does this as does the one you showed.
I use Teflon tape in the stocker ball links to remove the slop. Try that first. Just pop out the balls , insert some small strips of T Tape and pop the ball back in. Cut off the excess. Every Ball and End. Ackerman needs to be checked, they can loosen up. Or their Step screws can wear out. Replace as needed.
Sorry, I know that using T. Tape is not as glamorous as upgrade Alloy. But it does work. With every Ball link throughout the chassis. Just some ideas to try first.
I also use shims at all the hubs where necessary. And make sure your 4 Pivot balls at the hubs/uprights are clean and adjusted well.
Another area of ST slop that many overlook.
>>>You will be chasing a Ghost trying to remove every last bit of Slop throughout the whole chassis. They run just fine with some slop. They are just bashers RC's. Not saying these Arrma's are garbage, but having built up many Race kits over the years, I am just making the distinction between the price point and quality differences. You can't make something into something it was never meant to be. Nothing will be perfect. Sometimes "Good Enough" is just that. Just have fun.
Spending needless coin in the process?? IDK. I never buy any upgrade parts for the Bling alone. If it doesn't function well, that's a fail, and waste of RC coin to me. But we all do this hobby differntly. It's your wallet. Your decision.
I have a Bin full of alloy upgrade parts here that were junk, poor fit, worse than stock parts or whatever. There is tons of upgrade garbage out there, is what I am saying.
Shiny bling seems to always sell. I get that.
I tend to buy prioritized needed alloy parts from well known brands like M2C and similar quality brands, when I do. I'll pay for the $good$ stuff when I need to.
Pick and choose your battles wisely. This Hobby is quite expensive. 35+ years doin it.

 

[332_RC]

I'm not concerned about slop on the ball ends. The servo arm have slop in it ( maybe its the servo problem ). Actually this part is half the price of the original arrma equivalent in my country.

I understand you. Unfortunately it is too late to rethink all that as I already upgraded almost everything. I was originally planning to buy 1/8 competition racing buggy like kyosho/team associated, but the nearest race track is 1,5 hour drive one way and its not always open ( weather etc. )

That's impressive!

 

[SrC]

Racing is a different RC niche altogether.
On a confined technical track, you are driving much slower dealing with driving perfect lines and through track features repetitively, so a rig must be precision enough to get any decent lap times. Will make you or break you otherwise. The rest is your driving skill set.
All my tracks nearby closed up years back. And now I am too old to race. My eye hand coordination has dwindled. As I got older.
I would gladly support my 14 yo son now if there were tracks nearby me. He is great with a Radio. Runs his 6s stuff better than I. Speed runs his Infr. easily. He has 2 Arrmas and several TA's as well as an Axial Crawler. He gets bored with the slow thing however , not enough challenge for him. Kids these days game a lot. Great eye hand coordination.

 

[Mopsik_Klopsik]

Racing is a different RC niche altogether.
On a confined technical track, you are driving much slower dealing with driving perfect lines and through track features repetitively, so a rig must be precision enough to get any decent lap times. Will make you or break you otherwise. The rest is your driving skill set.

Yeah I tried to drive on track. It's not easy but rewarding. With traxxas maxx tho .

 

[SrC]

Wow, what a track there.
Now that is a challenge for sure