Having Trouble Installing EC5 Connectors

[SrC]

I always mate connectors when I solder. It can still melt if not careful.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Another thing to note is that the cheap knock off xt90's plastic housing melts at a lower temperature than the quality "Genuine Amass brand" xt90's.
I recently soldered some Amass with anti-spark. When using the motioned method of plugging the 2 connectors together this works as a heat sink..... I had zero issues.

-Liberty

 

[SrC]

@LibertyMKiii, I agree completely with the above for the most part. And you also have great soldering skills. Comes from experience.
I have seen so many knockoffs, much like Deans Ultra Plugs(T-plugs) and they do fail. Genuine Amass logos have been copied so well. And yes it is the plastics used that separate the fakes from the real deal. I like the XT's in general. As of late EC5's interest me. Very robust etc. Technically easier to work with once you get the hang of them.
I use heatsinking method also, because I like a very hot iron. I believe in working fast. Temps at 650-700F. I let my tip temps recover between joint applications. I have an assortment of clip on heatsinks for soldering other types of joints also. Especially when working on boards with 22 guage.
I am just not convinced about the anti-spark variants of the XT-90's. I understand completely how they work. Not really a new concept. It has been used on mission critical applications in Aerospace and Military applications. (QC is at a much higher level and not outsourced)
Resistance at the point of initial terminal contact, then full insertion opens the resistance circuit ( bypasses 6 ohm resistor) for a zero resistance circuit. Yes they work perfectly when they do. Probably 99.99% of the time in a perfect world. Preventing arced bullets etc. That's a big plus.
But they have failed and the resulting epic fail outweighs the benefit of the anti-spark feature. Resisters can and will fail at some point. I like to try new things to make an honest evaluation. But in this situation I would rather play devils advocate. Just not sold on them. At least not yet. 25volt/dead short scenarios. I'm just not sold. Over the years, I am not too trusting of connectors in general. No matter type or brand. The more simpler the connection the better. I tend to hardwire all my electrics whenever I can and it is feasible.
When I first learned of Anti-Spark, I was truly eager to jump in.....
I just may change my mind on these....but for me the jury is out on this one. Please convince me.
Call me old school.

 

[JvG]

This goes on my if list:

If you buy cheap, you get cheap
If your iron is very (too) hot, you risk melting connectors
If you buy Traxxas, you will regret it someday

 

[SrC]

Risk and experience has an inverse relationship.

 

[NCbasher33]

Thanks all for your help. Installing the battery connection is sooo much easier to get in the connector. I was running out of day light so I just ran it for a couple minutes on the juice the battery came with (I know probably not to wise) and omg sooo much more power then my old school Nicd RCs and I'm only running to 2s. Currently have it on storage charge while I clean up my shop some.

Wish I didn't have a meeting tomorrow or I would be calling in sick. Friday may have to be a sick a day ?.

In the few minutes i ran it only managed to roll it a few times lol

Can't wait to run it in the daylight on a full charge.

Thanks again

 

[Dngrmaus]

This is what I use to make EC5. https://www.progressiverc.com/prc-ec5-assembly-punch.html

 

[PaPa Thorn]

This is what I use to make EC5. https://www.progressiverc.com/prc-ec5-assembly-punch.html

You can get a leather tool with that shape for half the price, not that 8 bucks will break the bank.

 

[SrC]

I always new there was a tool for that.
I never located that. Great find!

 

[NCbasher33]

@Dngrmaus wow that definitely would have helped i used a nail punch.

@CofNailz is there a certain size or name for the leather punch?

 

[PaPa Thorn]

@Dngrmaus wow that definitely would have helped i used a nail punch.

@CofNailz is there a certain size or name for the leather punch?

IDK the size, and it's just a leather tool I saw in a tool box the other day and this reminded me of it. Like I said, 8 bucks is nothing so go with the tool @Dngrmaus linked to, I'm buying one.

I only mentioned it because some people have craft shops closer than hobby shops, or maybe have one laying around.

 

[razorrc]

Yup, some brands of EC5's slide in from the front, some from the back. Check the taper of the plugs BEFORE you solder to make sure you know which one it is.

I like the Dynamite EC5's. They have the half cup like the XT90's and are easy to solder. The full cup ones are a little trickier.

To press them in, I use a small flathead and a rubber mallet on my concrete garage floor. One tap and they're in.

 

[SrC]

You're welcone, i hope this helps!

A XT90 can melt (with a lot of heat), but all you have to do is always use 2 connectors when soldering and this will never happen.
Like this:
View attachment 45547
With this setup soldering XT90's is quite easy.

Excellent point! I also use a clip on heat sink on the opposite connector I am working on. And I use high temp at the tip. But you need to work fast. If you are comfortable soldering at higher temps. 650F-700F. A lot depends on what gauge wire you will soldering. #10 gauge and thicker becomes more of a challenge.

 

[cbhirner]

I have EC5 connectors I bought from amazon but I am having a tough time getting the plastic over the the bullet any tips? I tried using a flat head a few times but stopped after I stabbed my finger and figured this probably isn't suppose to be this tough to connect the two. I was practicing the assembly on a test wire and wanted to get the process down before soldering on to a battery (new to soldering).

Did i just buy bad EC5 connectors? These are the ones I bought https://www.amazon.com/iGreely-Micr...s=ec5+igreely&qid=1565653308&s=gateway&sr=8-2

I was wondering if the deans to ec5 adapters are any good? Should I just buy the adapter that plug in deans to ec5?

I just want to get my new truck up and running. Any help would be great. Thanks

To answer your question, there really arent any 'bad' connectors, there are however some that are a huge pain in the rear. For instance i swear by the HRB brand ec5 connectors they are well made and when the metal is still warm they pop right in with only a little bit of force. However i did buy some others when the HRB were backordered and they were impossible. I wound up damaging some of the housings just trying to get the connector in. The issue was my lack of knowledge. These connectors required a punch. It cost about 8 dollars and when used with the bad connectors made a finished ec5 that could not be pulled apart even with a hammer and nail. So there are some that are easier to use but they are all pretty good. Id say for those that you have just get the punch. heres the link

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FKW4J0E/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_jRvEEb36MBBZQ

 

[vetter313]

I have EC5 connectors I bought from amazon but I am having a tough time getting the plastic over the the bullet any tips? I tried using a flat head a few times but stopped after I stabbed my finger and figured this probably isn't suppose to be this tough to connect the two. I was practicing the assembly on a test wire and wanted to get the process down before soldering on to a battery (new to soldering).

Did i just buy bad EC5 connectors? These are the ones I bought https://www.amazon.com/iGreely-Micr...s=ec5+igreely&qid=1565653308&s=gateway&sr=8-2

I was wondering if the deans to ec5 adapters are any good? Should I just buy the adapter that plug in deans to ec5?

I just want to get my new truck up and running. Any help would be great. Thanks

I’ve used the dean to ec5 connect,an seem to work very efficient with not much if any power loss, I’d go with that route,before you get a very big head ache along with some burns!!

 

[Jerold]

Excellent point! I also use a clip on heat sink on the opposite connector I am working on. And I use high temp at the tip. But you need to work fast. If you are comfortable soldering at higher temps. 650F-700F. A lot depends on what gauge wire you will soldering. #10 gauge and thicker becomes more of a challenge.

Of course everyone has their own methods. Unless it's micro stuff (22awg), I typically run it maxxed out (480°C) and adjust the tip size. With an EC5 I would use a larger tip to transfer the most amount of heat in the shortest amount of time. Longer heat times allow the heat to travel up the wires and into the connector plastics.

Basically zap it with solder and move on.

With the high heat you need to be prepared with your solder and wire ready and be prepared to bail out if it's getting too hot. Then let it cool down to room temp.