I was just curious earplugs

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
What kind of RC are you thinking of putting ear plugs into?
I have a Drag Limitless. I have a center spool, and ear plugs in the front and rear diffs. It runs great! Equal amount of power is going to all four wheels. It stays in a straight line too. 👍
 
What kind of RC are you thinking of putting ear plugs into?
I have a Drag Limitless. I have a center spool, and ear plugs in the front and rear diffs. It runs great! Equal amount of power is going to all four wheels. It stays in a straight line too. 👍
I'm asking in more of an exploration manner I run a fireteam but have a vendetta my main though was turns and how much it would effect that I realize power distribution but is it too tight for reasonable turning
 
I was curious what would happen if I put earplugs in all 3 diffs?
Give it try for yourself and see.
I like silicone oil. Ear plugs are cheaper of course. I pass on them myself.
I run my Fireteam with 60k Fr/700k cnt/30k R FWIW. I might try 1 mil in the center next time around. The FT center diff does run super hot. Like 200F most of the time. Way too hot for my liking. FT is a heavy girl.
I would only run Earplugs at the center IF anything.
 
Give it try for yourself and see.
I like silicone oil. Ear plugs are cheaper of course. I pass on them myself.
I run my Fireteam with 60k Fr/700k cnt/30k R FWIW. I might try 1 mil in the center next time around. The FT center diff does run super hot. Like 200F most of the time. Way too hot for my liking. FT is a heavy girl.
I would only run Earplugs at the center IF anything.
That was my thought I have a skeeter 2 and I put unbelted badlands on it and that diff got hot Def diffin I'm going to try on it I saw a video with small amout of oil with plug seems reasonable after warm mix help that center stay cooler
 
I use earplugs in my onroad speedrunners for equal power distribution but only has go straight.

On my overpower FT (with belted badlands or slingshots) i've thickened the oils a little, but i certainly lose steering agily when they would be fully locked.

Currently in a turn the inner front wheel is pulled up some and makes for a bad turn radius (and more or less unpredictable) Having the F/R diffs locked with earplugs likely only makes it worse. Instead I've already added extra weight in the front to counter the big can motor in the back. Which helps a lot. I might increase the oil thickness in the center some more, but i'm seeking further improvement by changing the stocks
 
@rotauq,
try laying down all four shocks, but do one end at a time first, one notch at a time then evaluate, then try doing same with the others. I started with the rear shocks first.
I also adjusted the roll center at the rear. Getting Less chassis rotation. I was able to garner much more steering this way. I prefer the Lipo tray placed towards the rear myself. Much Less nose diving. Less loading at the front, while dialing in the shocks as above. It doesn't nose dive, or have any great traction Rolling now. I still run stock wheels. Like them best.
I have 60k front, 30k rear. I'm good with that.
I may go to 1 mil in the center diff. Aprox. 700k now in center, seems not quite enough with this heavy platform.
And I stayed with the stock FT stub Axels and hubs. Many make them wider with the Kraton ones to remove some of that traction rolling. I feel going with a wider track width just loses some steering control, personally speaking. But we all drive differently.
:cool:
 
Last edited:
@rotauq,
try laying down all four shocks, but do one end at a time first, one notch at a time then evaluate, then try doing same with the others. I started with the rear shocks first.
I also adjusted the roll center at the rear. Getting Less chassis rotation. I was able to garner much more steering this way. I prefer the Lipo tray placed towards the rear myself. Much Less nose diving. Less loading at the front, while dialing in the shocks as above. It doesn't nose dive, or have any great traction Rolling now. I still run stock wheels. Like them best.
I have 60k front, 30k rear. I'm good with that.
I may go to 1 mil in the center diff. Aprox. 700k now in center, seems not quite enough with this heavy platform.
And I stayed with the stock FT stub Axels and hubs. Many make them wider with the Kraton ones to remove some of that traction rolling. I feel going with a wider track width just loses some steering control, personally speaking. But we all drive differently.
:cool:
I have the lipo tray at the rear position too, as i need to cancel out the weight of the 2028/xlx2 on rear right. (not using the heavy ft body btw but the limitless body)
In the end added weight in to front as especially front right would lift much easier than right. Now lifting the front arms with a scalehook is equal left and right, making it behave more predictable. Power of the 2028 adds quite some torquesteer as well. Stock wheels are nice, but i switched to belted to cope with the power of motor. It would backflip at speed because of too much balooning at the front (even with 500k in the center).

Also checked and rotated the shocks. I have to do full load rear and front to keep it from hanging low and still it doesn't recover fully after compression. So stronger springs are my next tweak.
 
Yeah you went to the Lightweight Lim body like my Custom built XLWB chassis build. (y) I feel the front springs of my fairly stock FT does need firmer ones for sure. I only run Stock 6s electrics still and yeah I can get it to Backflip at speed as well, with the Stockers wheels and a fresh fully charged 6s pack.
Being quite heavy, my FT probably gets the shortest run times of all my 6s rigs. Like 10-12 minutes, if that, and a 6k Mah 6s brick. I am good with that. Is what it is. I can't justify running any heavier higher capacity bricks.
 
Give it try for yourself and see.
I like silicone oil. Ear plugs are cheaper of course. I pass on them myself.
I run my Fireteam with 60k Fr/700k cnt/30k R FWIW. I might try 1 mil in the center next time around. The FT center diff does run super hot. Like 200F most of the time. Way too hot for my liking. FT is a heavy girl.
I would only run Earplugs at the center IF anything.
I put earplugs in the center of my 4s skeeter and that was just the right spice. I left f/r at 10 k for good articulation in turns,difference was very noticeable easier wheelies less ballooning no more hot center. It's a little squirly for first couple min as center diff warms but perfect after that alot more fun
Yeah you went to the Lightweight Lim body like my Custom built XLWB chassis build. (y) I feel the front springs of my fairly stock FT does need firmer ones for sure. I only run Stock 6s electrics still and yeah I can get it to Backflip at speed as well, with the Stockers wheels and a fresh fully charged 6s pack.
Being quite heavy, my FT probably gets the shortest run times of all my 6s rigs. Like 10-12 minutes, if that, and a 6k Mah 6s brick. I am good with that. Is what it is. I can't justify running any heavier higher capacity bricks.
Check out east tactics video on century springs good info I have a set of 12lb Sp rt I've not used yet feels just right tighter coil makes them look beefier
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20230904_233259_Chrome.jpg
    Screenshot_20230904_233259_Chrome.jpg
    160.4 KB · Views: 34
  • Screenshot_20230904_233328_Chrome.jpg
    Screenshot_20230904_233328_Chrome.jpg
    161.6 KB · Views: 35
Last edited:
Sounds like curiosity killed someone's cat.
 
If you want to get the chassis to rotate properly in the turns etc. A Crossweight scale will reveal where you need to compensate for imbalances.
Sometimes just getting Droop sorted out helps. And I always start with Fr/Rr Arms Level using my Shock preload.. ( at full running weight)
 
fyi Swapped my front springs for heavy duty 1/5 scales from my old FG and locked the center with earplug silicone.
Happy with the result so far (on grass). Still have to test it on lose sand...
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top