My issue was it was too long, but I was using the HR slider mount, HR front support and HR top cap. Since the stock diff worked fine in that mount... it being too long with both gaskets installed was an issue for all 3 locations on my v2 outcast.
I'll see how mine does next weekend. I was able to install the M2C chassis, had an issue with aligning the motor mount and I should have used new screws because just as the last one tightened, it stripped the head. So I had to dremel it to get it out... the first ding on the new chassis...
With all the screws tight, it feels too tight on the center. There is zero wiggle room, just like the diff in the rear. I modified an old hpi dogbone I had to grind it down so I could spin the diff with my dremel. I ran it at 10k rpm's for a few minutes and monitored temp. It went up a degree or two... so will see if it cooks the bearings. I dropped from 500k to 300k in the center as well. Now that I'm on 6S, 500k was a bit much.
If the rear diff goes... I'll either try rebuilding it by cutting the gasket in half so it's thinner so I can add shims to set the mesh better or just go back to plastic and consider the arrma cups a total loss.
Can also drill the head off them remove the stump with the entire part removed. Or use an ezout.
My ezout has seen more use than I ever thought it would. Sometimes those bottom screws get really nasty, I had one that had a tiny pebble jammed into the head once, I had to get a bit creative on that one though.
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