Typhon looking at droop screws

kenyanr1

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Wanting to lower my Typhon. Would these work or do I need a 12mm length?
Thanks

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I like the 12mm better. More added droop can be achieved effectively. (with 6s Rig Arms) But 10mm will work also.

Have you tried adjusting the existing stock Shock Droop screws?
They do suck however with them not being "Double Hex Broached".

BTW, its best to use a ruler or caliper measuring each shock's length (eyelet to eyelet of each shock) as you set droop. So both L and R shocks have Identical "Shock Droop". Precision is Important. Doing this by the naked eye, doesn't work best. Turns of the Dr. screws are sensitive also. A quarter turn at a time makes it easier. Then measure, each side the same measuerment.
This is also why when you install the shock rod ends, that they are installed to the exact same way to tye same length. Shocks should have the same Rebound stroke. If not, this affects the Droop ultimately, when the shocks are installed back onto the towers/ arms. Even one or 2 mm matters.
How I do it at least.:cool:
For many years.
 
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Diem Turner

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I like the 12mm better. More added droop can be achieved effectively. (with 6s Rig Arms) But 10mm will work also.

Have you tried adjusting the existing stock Shock Droop screws?
They do suck however with them not being "Double Hex Broached".

BTW, its best to use a ruler or caliper measuring each shock's length (eyelet to eyelet of each shock) as you set droop. So both L and R shocks have Identical "Shock Droop". Precision is Important. Doing this by the naked eye, doesn't work best. Turns of the Dr. screws are sensitive also. A quarter turn at a time makes it easier. Then measure, each side the same measuerment.
This is also why when you install the shock rod ends, that they are installed to the exact same way to tye same length. Shocks should have the same Rebound stroke. If not, this affects the Droop ultimately, when the shocks are installed back onto the towers/ arms. Even one or 2 mm matters.
How I do it at least.:cool:
For many years.
+1
It's better to have longer rather than shorter droop screw. My reasoning for it is this: If you lower the car by a lot, the droop screw will only be in the hole by a few threads at the bottom. The more threads of the screw you have still in the arm, the more stable it will be and it will prevent the threads in the plastic arm from stripping out prematurely.
 

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  2. Infraction
  3. Limitless
  4. Kraton 6s
  5. Mojave
  6. Notorious
  7. Outcast 6s
  8. Typhon TLR
+1,
yes they will strip out. Like you said. I found that a few of my stocker droops when close to bottomed out actually drift off angle to the arms. Droop gets all wonky then. Even wears out the droop ears
The Best droop screws are made by AVID, Ti Smooth domed. they won't gouge out the chassis droop "Ears" . I use them on a few of my rigs. My Mojave and the MT410. Mojo has a M2C chassis and and the Tekno chassis, both are expensive. So I use the Avid droops.
 

kenyanr1

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+1,
yes they will strip out. Like you said. I found that a few of my stocker droops when close to bottomed out actually drift off angle to the arms. Droop gets all wonky then. Even wears out the droop ears
The Best droop screws are made by AVID, Ti Smooth domed. they won't gouge out the chassis droop "Ears" . I use them on a few of my rigs. My Mojave and the MT410. Mojo has a M2C chassis and and the Tekno chassis, both are expensive. So I use the Avid droops.

These here?

FA57B5D2-4B50-404B-8A89-F12502462BC2.png
 

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  3. Limitless
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  6. Notorious
  7. Outcast 6s
  8. Typhon TLR
+1
What I use. (y)
The best out there.
 

kenyanr1

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I like the 12mm better. More added droop can be achieved effectively. (with 6s Rig Arms) But 10mm will work also.

Have you tried adjusting the existing stock Shock Droop screws?
They do suck however with them not being "Double Hex Broached".

BTW, its best to use a ruler or caliper measuring each shock's length (eyelet to eyelet of each shock) as you set droop. So both L and R shocks have Identical "Shock Droop". Precision is Important. Doing this by the naked eye, doesn't work best. Turns of the Dr. screws are sensitive also. A quarter turn at a time makes it easier. Then measure, each side the same measuerment.
This is also why when you install the shock rod ends, that they are installed to the exact same way to tye same length. Shocks should have the same Rebound stroke. If not, this affects the Droop ultimately, when the shocks are installed back onto the towers/ arms. Even one or 2 mm matters.
How I do it at least.:cool:
For many years.
Thanks, you gave me a lot to consider. You have a link for the 12mm?
 

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Arrma RC's
  1. Fireteam
  2. Infraction
  3. Limitless
  4. Kraton 6s
  5. Mojave
  6. Notorious
  7. Outcast 6s
  8. Typhon TLR
They don't come in 12mm last I heard. Don't quote me.;)
But 10mm should be fine. What I use.
This is pretty much standard length for all brand Truggy/Buggy style 1/8 chassis rigs.
 

kenyanr1

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They don't come in 12mm last I heard. Don't quote me.;)
But 10mm should be fine. What I use.
This is pretty much standard length for all brand Truggy/Buggy style 1/8 chassis rigs.
Thanks man. Last question, if I’m reading the description correctly these screws can be screwed from the top and bottom, correct?
 
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