Fireteam M4x18 Motor Mount screws

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CosmoM3

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Arrma RC's
  1. Fireteam
  2. Infraction
  3. Limitless
  4. Kraton EXB
  5. Mojave EXB
  6. Outcast EXB
  7. Talion EXB
  8. Typhon TLR
Redondo Beach RC doesn't sell them anymore from the looks of it, so before I order from Scorched Parts RC, does anyone know where I can order them online in the US?
 
Redondo Beach RC doesn't sell them anymore from the looks of it, so before I order from Scorched Parts RC, does anyone know where I can order them online in the US?

Few places I look and order

Ebay
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...+X+16mm+Full+Thread+Cap+Head+Screws&_osacat=0

Monster
https://monsterbolts.com/collections/metric-flat-head-screws/products/socket-flat-b12-9-m3

Monster M4
https://monsterbolts.com/collections/metric-flat-head-screws/products/socket-flat-b12-9-m4


Then there is Amazon
 
Which screws? The flat heads that hold the plate to the motor or the button heads that hold the plate to the mount? M4x18 sounds like plate to mount? In which case I would recommend cylinder head cap screws, preferably in 12.9 hardness steel. Save the stainless for less critical applications.
 
Redondo Beach RC doesn't sell them anymore from the looks of it, so before I order from Scorched Parts RC, does anyone know where I can order them online in the US?
McMaster-Carr in the US has the nice "flanged" Socket head M4's. (a deep 3mm Hex) 18mm length is max. stock. But even 16-18mm. is fine.
What I use, with some Blue TL. The stock Flanged 2.5 hexed Button head screws plain suck. Hex head Strips even if you use Heat first. Arrma uses strong TL on them in most cases.
I always toss them when new out the box, when I double check my Pinion mesh out the box.
FWIW, my FT Pin. Mesh was slammed tight against the Spur gear from the factory. Zero Backlash. Horrible QC.(n)
Not the first time. Won't be the last.:rolleyes:
 
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Redondo Beach RC doesn't sell them anymore from the looks of it, so before I order from Scorched Parts RC, does anyone know where I can order them online in the US?
Not to rain on all the great aftermarket guys parades, but I started using M4 hardened cap head screws a while ago. They use a 3mm hex and are almost impossible to strip. Just saying.
Screenshot_20231013_150127_Gallery.jpg
 
I haven't forgotten about Monster bolts that @slick2500 had recommended. One day I'll have to actually buy screws.. till then, I'll let my employer pay for them from Graingers 😜🤣🍻
My NYC job also used Grainger. I swear they are the biggest rip off going. (n)Don't ever buy from Grainger. They are more accustomed to selling to Big Companies and being a Municipality, State or Fed. Vendor that sell high volume bulk orders to Businesses that easily write blank business checks. I think they are the ones that sell their $2k dollar hammers to NASA.:LOL:
And their prices are off the charts for even the most basic things. Usually double and triple the price for the same thing got elsewhere. City agencies like to spend $$. The more they spend one year, the more Funding they get the next. A scam. A waste of tax payer money. Another topic altogether.
I have their yearly Catalogue from my job. I did much purchasing for my Job.


Shipping is not really free considering you are paying Super high prices. Grainger is all BS.:rolleyes:

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This is the correct answer. Only down side is you're not going to order onle 3-4 screws. It's typically bulk of 50 or more. :D
McMaster-Carr is awesome!! At work, I'm only allowed to order from them if Graingers doesn't have an item though.. Grainger gives us free shipping on everything whereas we pay shipping from McMaster. So, to recap, we don't mind paying more for the items (often much more at Graingers) as long as we don't pay for shipping🤪😖😂😂 yeah, I work for some real idiots!!
 
I’ve broken a couple of the titanium screws.

Now I use these things with a basic M4 washer. Perfect length. 3mm hex. And strong 12.9 grade steel.

iexcell 100 Pcs M4 x 18 Thread Pitch 0.7 mm Alloy Steel 12.9 Grade Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Bolts Kit, Black Oxide Finish https://a.co/d/jjPRbhj
 
Basic "Socket" head M4 screws with washers makes a big difference. If you cant find the Flanged screws.
I've used M4 SS washers from THD. Easy enough
 
My NYC job also used Grainger. I swear they are the biggest rip off going. (n)Don't ever buy from Grainger. They are more accustomed to selling to Big Companies and being a Municipality, State or Fed. Vendor that sell high volume bulk orders to Businesses that easily write blank business checks. I think they are the ones that sell their $2k dollar hammers to NASA.:LOL:
And their prices are off the charts for even the most basic things. Usually double and triple the price for the same thing got elsewhere. City agencies like to spend $$. The more they spend one year, the more Funding they get the next. A scam. A waste of tax payer money. Another topic altogether.
I have their yearly Catalogue from my job. I did much purchasing for my Job.
I concur!! I absolutely hate their website..I'm a parts guy by trade, also have to order shop supplies..and I can't find anything by any logical means on the site. Just terrible.
 
I’ve broken a couple of the titanium screws.

Now I use these things with a basic M4 washer. Perfect length. 3mm hex. And strong 12.9 grade steel.

iexcell 100 Pcs M4 x 18 Thread Pitch 0.7 mm Alloy Steel 12.9 Grade Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Bolts Kit, Black Oxide Finish https://a.co/d/jjPRbhj
+1
Just what the Dr. ordered. 12.9 grade (y) AMZ, Easy and cheap. Use washers and some TL, and you are rolling.
I got lucky a few times and The Home Depot even had them where I Iive. I bought all what was remaining. A few packs of them.
Try THD first if you have one nearby. Worth a try.
I’ve broken a couple of the titanium screws.

Now I use these things with a basic M4 washer. Perfect length. 3mm hex. And strong 12.9 grade steel.

iexcell 100 Pcs M4 x 18 Thread Pitch 0.7 mm Alloy Steel 12.9 Grade Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Bolts Kit, Black Oxide Finish https://a.co/d/jjPRbhj
Ti does snap, unfortunately.
Probably not best for High stress, high torque with this application???:unsure:
 
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Those are button head flange to clear the center diff top plate for close mount pinch. I’ve rounded off a couple hexes in the field without access to heat, but just tap in a standard-7/64” hex and they’ll last.

The secret is to press the chassis directly to a solid table surface for best bite
 
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Those are button head flange to clear the center diff top plate for close mount pinch. I’ve rounded off a couple hexes in the field without access to heat, but just tap in a standard-7/64” hex and they’ll last.
I could not get a socket head screw to clear with a 12t pinion.
 
I've Dremeled out a notch at the center diff's top plate for small pinion clearance of the inner Mesh scew. But I rarely run small pinions.
 
I've Dremeled out a notch at the center diff's top plate for small pinion clearance of the inner Mesh scew. But I rarely run small pinions.
Never really thought of that. I wish Arrma would have. My $200 Kraton still runs stock motor esc and pinion.
 
Arrma actually does have a slight tiny notch there at the top cover. And the OE "button head" screw works and clears it. With a taller fatter M4 Socket head screw, you need to Dremel out a bit more of the notch to run/mesh the small pinions.
Yeah with the stock k6S, Pinion is a tiny 12T if I am correct. I use larger ones, 14, 15 or 16's with my Noto, FT and K6s, and most of the 6s stuff here. All with the stocker 50T Spurs.
 
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