Kraton Loose pinion

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bobs1811

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Just ran K6S max 6 1650kv G2 and pinion (20T) came loose with light use (grub/set screw was still quite tightly screwed in the pinion but the grub/set screw itself (which came with the pinion) seems to have worn with light use)
Any solutions?

Stronger Grub screw, D shaped Pinion, Pinion with 2 grub/set screws, 8MM To 5MM Pinion Reducer Sleeve?

Also does the HW max 6 (G2) esc fan only turn on at a certain temp?

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Your gear mesh was too tight for that to happen, and yes the ESC fan only kicks on after a preset temp value.

Verify your center diff bearings are good too
 
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Your gear mesh was too tight for that to happen, and yes the ESC fan only kicks on after a preset temp value.

Verify your center diff bearings are good too
Yeah possibly it was just a bit to tight, the spur was able to.move but maybe not quite enough. Will try a Tekno pinion also which has a M5 grub/set screw.

Will check centre diff bearings also
 
If you don't get any better results from the suggestions above or what you are going to look at in the center diff. Yes I think moving to 8mm and a 2.5mm grub screw that you can overpower and torque on tight without stripping is the answer. Also personally I like to put loctite inside the pinion as well "between the shaft and gear"

I run 8mm mod1s on almost all my 5mm motors. Here is my max6 1650kv with a sleeve and 8mm pinion.

You can just go with techno, the reason I'd rather get sleeves is because I already have a bunch of 8mm mod1's, Also not sure if techno makes pinion packs for 2.5mm grub screw mod1 5mm shaft pinions, likely they do but i don't know, unlikely they are competitive pricing with the ones you can get off amazon that work great. But maybe im wrong there to.

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Stupid question maybe , did you use a good Hand hex driver, or just an L wrench. Kit L wrenches get tossed. Never use them. Not enough Torque can be achieved with them. And will likely strip out anyway at some point.
I don't believe in adapter sleeved Pinions. Bad idea. Been there. Tekno for sure.
Grub screws are RC consumable items. Replace them if questionable. I usually grind a good flat on them before reusing them. To freshen up the bite and Purchase. And both the pinion and grub screw needs to be absolutely clean before reuse. I find that Blue TL is fine if done this way. I use 243 (oil compatible TL) And like stated above let cure for 24 hours before running it. I honestly can't remember the last time I ever had a Pinion come loose in all my years. Been long ago....
Sure it can happen. :cool: And usually due to wrenching error(s).
Arrma Safe-D Pinions suck. Don't buy them as replacements. Quality Pinions don't come cheap. You pay for what you get here. Saga Customs also has some great Pinions of all types and varieties.
 
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Stupid question maybe , did you use a good Hand hex driver, or just an L wrench. Kit L wrenches get tossed. Never use them. Not enough Torque can be achieved with them. And will likely strip out anyway at some point.
I don't believe in adapter sleeved Pinions. Bad idea. Been there. Tekno for sure.
Grub screws are RC consumable items. Replace them if questionable. I usually grind a good flat on them before reusing them. To freshen up the bite and Purchase. And both the pinion and grub screw needs to be absolutely clean before reuse. I find that Blue TL is fine if done this way. I use 243 (oil compatible TL) And like stated above let cure for 24 hours before running it. I honestly can't remember the last time I ever had a Pinion come loose in all my years. Been long ago....
Sure it can happen. :cool: And usually due to wrenching error(s).
Arrma Safe-D Pinions suck. Don't buy them as replacements.
Yeah it was a good hand hex driver. Will try a Tekno pinion which has an M5 grub and will try what you said. A few have said that the D Pinions aren't any good so won't get those
👍

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If you don't get any better results from the suggestions above or what you are going to look at in the center diff. Yes I think moving to 8mm and a 2.5mm grub screw that you can overpower and torque on tight without stripping is the answer. Also personally I like to put loctite inside the pinion as well "between the shaft and gear"

I run 8mm mod1s on almost all my 5mm motors. Here is my max6 1650kv with a sleeve and 8mm pinion.

You can just go with techno, the reason I'd rather get sleeves is because I already have a bunch of 8mm mod1's, Also not sure if techno makes pinion packs for 2.5mm grub screw mod1 5mm shaft pinions, likely they do but i don't know, unlikely they are competitive pricing with the ones you can get off amazon that work great. But maybe im wrong there to.

View attachment 337698
Yeah will try the Tekno first, which 8mm pinion brand are you using by the way?
 
I use about any off Amazon. If you try and drill them out you'll need a cobalt bit and oiling system haha cause youll snap your bit. Just saying they are all tough now days, you used to have to really look for good pinions, now they are mostly good ones.

Just grabbed a couple links from my orders on amazon for different manufacture requests.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0821LB96Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09V5D7K9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09BMDNZKJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
 
I run the same motor in my Kraton with a Tekno pinion. It never comes loose. I use blue thread lock and it seems to work. When you set your gear mesh spin the spur gear and look for tight spots. Tight spots will vibrate your pinion loose.
 
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