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Fuel line on the shock shaft will help with that.There is no really a need for it, as you should have the grub screw on the lower arm to dictate the end of travel. If anything it would be nice to have a limit on the compression, so not to damage the CV or the inner bearings...
Agreed, my issue was over compression. I installed o rings to the shock shafts. Seemed to eliminate my problems on the Mojave. This past weekend, both my kraton exb and my brothers rtr kraton started spitting the front driveshats from the diff output cups.. I installed o rings to the shafts, but the problem persisted..turns out both my front and one of my brothers shock rod ends are broken. Not completely, but enough to allow the suspension ot over compress and eject the driveshafts..There is no really a need for it, as you should have the grub screw on the lower arm to dictate the end of travel. If anything it would be nice to have a limit on the compression, so not to damage the CV or the inner bearings...
I like the Nero shock rod ends. They're beefier. I also have some Teknos that I haven't tried yetAgreed, my issue was over compression. I installed o rings to the shock shafts. Seemed to eliminate my problems on the Mojave. This past weekend, both my kraton exb and my brothers rtr kraton started spitting the front driveshats from the diff output cups.. I installed o rings to the shafts, but the problem persisted..turns out both my front and one of my brothers shock rod ends are broken. Not completely, but enough to allow the suspension ot over compress and eject the driveshafts..
So, guess we need new shock rod ends on both our kratons. Is there anything better than the current ones Arrma is supplying? I may give the Tekno rod ends and pivot balls a try. Never broke a Tekno shock rod end yet.
Are you having issues, or just asking? The droop screws should prevent any over extension if that's the question. Alternatively they can be used to lower the stance of the mojave for street bashing too.
What is the purpose of the limiting straps in the pic of your Mojave???There is no really a need for it, as you should have the grub screw on the lower arm to dictate the end of travel. If anything it would be nice to have a limit on the compression, so not to damage the CV or the inner bearings...
Thanks, what pivot balls do you use with these? I did search the subject, found a couple threads aboot it, but felt even more confused after reading them, LOL. Seems there were some parts mislabeled by Arrma a while back..as well as different pivot ball/shock rod ends used.I like the Nero shock rod ends. They're beefier. I also have some Teknos that I haven't tried yet
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What is the purpose of the limiting straps in the pic of your Mojave???
The Body clip retainers?? Maybe I missed it??? I am going blind maybe?
Droop set correcty will spare the shocks when extending the stroke. Did you adjust your shock droop screws yet out the box? Essentially Raising your arms, by turning the Droop screws on the lower arms.
First thing to always do.
With the 4x4 line there are no droop limit provisions. Strapping the shocks is one great idea.
Tekno pivot ballsThanks, what pivot balls do you use with these? I did search the subject, found a couple threads aboot it, but felt even more confused after reading them, LOL. Seems there were some parts mislabeled by Arrma a while back..as well as different pivot ball/shock rod ends used.
I definitely would prefer metal pivot balls, I think.
Thanks, and yeah, I find the Tekno do seem to be stronger but more importantly to me, they don't develop slop nearly as quickly as the Arrma bits. I was hesitating on the Tekno ends due to cost, but realize that they're worth it. Based on @joshludden post, not really much if any more than the Arrma ends either..Whe I do break my OE 6s line rod ends, despite proper droop, I use Tekno variants with the Tekno steel balls and spring retainers. Haven't broken a Tekno one yet. Same on my Tekno MT410. Better plastics IMHO.
I use that system on the 1/8, but the Mojave is too heavy for that.. A nice piece of 4-5 mm bachelite or a carbon rod located and fixed correctly above the upper arms, would do a much better job and it would act as second stage spring. Very handy for when your car does high jumps...Fuel line on the shock shaft will help with that.
I don't think I have a picture of it, but when I did it, I used a 3 piece of Bakelite one shorter than the other (think of a leaf spring design and mounted upside down like in some trucks on the drive axle) held all together by two bolt secured to the top of the front hub... By adding and/or removing leafs or changing thickness, you can get a pretty accurate bump stopper based on the weight of the car and size of the jumps you do. I also did add a bit of rubber at the end of the longest leaf, as a sacrificial part (Bakelite and plastic rubbing together, not a good recipe). This was done on an old Kyosho Inferno MP6 converted to a stunt car.. It was working well... The main problem back then was the constant breaking of the fuel tank mounts by having the chassis hitting the ground too hard...^^^
Good idea
Never thought of that .
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